Homebrew Beer Recipes | Page 241 | Browse 305,000+ at Brewer's Friend

Author:

Barney BlueCAP

Boil Size: 6.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.052

Efficiency: 76

Mash Thickness: 1.3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 12/26/2017 1:30 PM

Notes: -Yeast Starter/Stir Plate 1.2L, 100g light DME, White Labs California Ale Yeast WLP001 235 billion cells needed, 239 billion cells starter
-1-2 weeks in primary
-2 weeks in secondary

Mosaic is the icon of single-hop complexity. It's kaleidoscope of tantalizing citrus, pine, tropical fruit and berry notes decorate each golden-copper hued glass. This spectral motif quiets into abstract bitterness for a smooth, refreshing, hop forward finish.

Author:

Boozy Mcboozerson

Boil Size: 10.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 120

Boil Gravity: 1.068

Efficiency: 57

Mash Thickness: 1.2

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 6/20/2019 6:29 PM

Notes: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/firestone-walker-parabola.268482/

I got this recipe from the link above, someone was corresponding with Firestone Walker trying to get info on brewing Parabola and he got sent a scaled down homebrew recipe from the head brewer. If you want to make this cheaper he originally suggested a 2 row base, but their website says Maris Otter is the base malt. Also I upped the Munich a bit to make sure it had a strong malt backbone. Lastly I got the ratios as close as I could before adding the DME. You should add as much DME as you need to hit your gravity

Heres the brewers instructions:

Mash Program
Mash in at 145F / 63C
Soak at 145F for 45 minutes
Ramp to 152F/ 66C
Soak at 152F for 20 minutes (add oats)
Ramp to 158F / 70C
Soak for 10 minutes
Vorlauf / recirculate wort till clear
Slowly collect wort

Boil Program
Boil for 120 minutes
Add liquid malt extract / dry malt extract with 15-20 minutes remaining in boil to reach gravity (we use approximately 1 gallon of golden light liquid malt extract for every 7 gallons of wort collected to achieve gravity.heavy indeed)

Cellaring
Cool wort to 17C and pitch yeast
Allow 7-10 days of primary fermentation
Remove from yeast and allow 4-5 days secondary and then begin to cool to whatever temp you will store your barrel at (this way you avoid expansion and popping a bung or contraction and pulling in air)
Store for 3-12 months

In order to truly make Parabola, you will need to get your hands on a bourbon barrel or at least a good wood barrel with the addition of a bit of bourbon. (heaven hill, Old Fitzgerald, Knob creek etc). You will want to age this cold or cool for a minimum of 3 all the way up to 12 months. Fill the barrel after primary and secondary transferring as little yeast as possible. Purge your barrel well with Co2 prior to transfer as you do not want to accelerate oxidation during aging. Below are some specs to shoot for and percentages to use. Good luck!

Author:

friskywhiskers

Boil Size: 4 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.075

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.5

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: force carb

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/7/2016 9:52 PM

Notes: Primary for 14 days, add blueberrys to secondary and rack beer, let it sit for 2 weeks. Add extract at bottling/keging time.

Author:

jammin

Boil Size: 4 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 5/7/2012 4:28 PM

Notes:

Author:

trudelphic

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 12/30/2012 11:43 PM

Notes:

Author:

B1lldozer

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 6/26/2013 2:46 AM

Notes:

Author:

paulaucunas@hotmail.com

Boil Size: 3 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.096

Efficiency: 35

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Extract

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 72 ° F

Priming Method: corn sugar

Priming Amount: 1 cup

Creation Date: 4/21/2014 1:15 AM

Notes: steeping grains in one grain bag. add to 3 gal water, bring to 170. remove grain bag. bring to a boil.
add DME.
add Cascade Hops
add Willamette hops at 50 min mark

1 week primary fermenter
1 week secondary fermenter

bottle and age for minimum 2 weeks

?? batch in progress

Author:

Corey Leitch

Boil Size: 3.25 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.044

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 9/15/2016 4:26 PM

Notes:

Author:

Wolf King Brewing

Boil Size: 5.53 Gallons

Boil Time: 30

Boil Gravity: 1.062

Efficiency: 68

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 95 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 1/3/2021 9:08 PM

Notes:

Author:

Majawat

Boil Size: 1 Gallons

Boil Time: N/A

Boil Gravity: 1.172

Efficiency: 100

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 72 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/12/2019 3:23 AM

Notes:

Author:

Brian Beaulieu

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.052

Efficiency: 64

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.25

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 5/18/2016 12:16 PM

Notes: Steap chocolate malt, roasted barley and midnight wheat in 3 quarts (.75 gallons) of water over night. Add strained liquid at flameout

Author:

davblck

Boil Size: 14 Gallons

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.051

Efficiency: 90

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 2/9/2013 5:40 PM

Notes: Pitch 66. Begin fermentation 68-70 hold for 3 days, ramp up to mid 70's until gravity reaches 1.012@ 60deg.

Transfer to secondary and pitch Brett/Bugs once gravity reaches 1.012 @ 62deg.

Hold temperature between 62-64 for approximately 30 days.

Author:

d347h

Boil Size: 6.25 Gallons

Boil Time: 45

Boil Gravity: 1.052

Efficiency: 81

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: 63 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 11/27/2015 11:45 PM

Notes:

Author:

Bakke Brygg

Boil Size: 58 Litres

Boil Time: 90

Boil Gravity: 1.055

Efficiency: 74

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 18 ° C

Priming Method: Sukkerlake

Priming Amount: 6,5 g sukker/L

Creation Date: 9/13/2014 1:41 PM

Notes: Basert på vinneren i PF under juleølkonkurransen 2012.

Mengden meske- og skyllevann du bør bruke kommer an på utstyret og metoden du brygger med. Som et anslag kan vi si at du kan bruke 40 l meskevann og 30,6 l skyllevann til dette ølet. Noen bryggemaskiner (f.eks. Speidel Braumeister) kan kreve større mengder meskevann. Sjekk alltid manualen på utstyret du bruker.

Mesking på 66 grader i 60 min. Utmesk på 77 grader i 5 min hvis du har mulighet til å øke temperatur i mesken.

Kjøl ned til 17 grader før pitching av gjær.

Gjæring på 18 grader til stormgjæring begynner å avta (typisk etter 3-5 dager). Øk deretter til 20 grader og hold resten av gjæringsperioden (totalt 14 dager). Tørrhumle etter 5 dager.

Gjæralternativer: WLP001, WLP007, WLP051, WLP090, Danstar Nottingham

Author:

Boil Size: 12 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.041

Efficiency: 65

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 75 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/6/2015 5:41 PM

Notes:

Author:

jxepolis

Boil Size: 3 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: N/A

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: Extract

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: Corn Sugar

Priming Amount: 5oz

Creation Date: 2/5/2012 1:46 AM

Notes: And frech saison yeast

Author:

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.042

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 55 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 1/22/2016 5:05 AM

Notes:

Author:

Stellenbosch

Boil Size: 25 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.177

Efficiency: 80

Mash Thickness: 3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/13/2015 6:18 PM

Notes: mash 64-66C, left for the whole night. First running-offs collected, the rest went for distillation. 6-hour-long boil.
gravity around 1.220, but it is out of scale. 1H NMR doesn't give an answer. Try to evaporate a sample to check what is the sugar content.
Evaporation (60°C, 7days, air circulation) of 50g sample left 25g solids;this means that the wort was 50°P which equals 1.233 g/cm3.
Fermenter was left open @20°C, fermentation picked up after 3 days (!). 15.10.2015

Warto poznać za fundamentalną pracą G.E. Habicha pt. Schule der Bierbrauerei (szkoła browarnictwa)[2]:

Z 1000 kg słodu i 5 kg chmielu produkowane jest około 10,5 hl (1050 litrów) piw

piwa jopejskie trzeba było bardzo szybko schłodzić
By zapewnić naprawdę szybkie parowanie gorącego wywaru przelewano go w duże płaskie kadzie
Wydobyte z pleśniowych jaskiń piwo filtrowano, beczki zamykano, ale proces dalszej, już bardzo powolnej i spokojnej fermentacji trwać musiał jeszcze cały rok

Warto dodać, bo nie wszyscy o tym mówią, że było to także kwaśne piwo. Poziom kwasu mlekowego był całkiem duży, na poziomie około 2% – czyli tak jak w lambicu. Jednak tutaj zostawała olbrzymia ilość cukrów resztkowych, więc kwaśności nie było aż tak czuć
Jakość tego wyjątkowego piwa była rzekomo testowana w bardzo oryginalny sposób. Otóż zawartość pierwszego kufla wylewano na ciężką drewnianą ławę, na której następnie siadali piwosze, by błyskawicznie się podnieść. Jeśli ława unosiła się wraz z nimi, można było kontynuować konsumpcję. Można się zastanawiać, ile prawdy jest tym zwyczaju, ponieważ podobne procedury istnieją w Bawarii – jeśli piwosz w skórzanych spodniach przyklei się do oblanej piwem ławy, oznacza to, że trunek jest odpowiednio treściwy.
http://akademia-piwa.pl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=66%3Apiwo-jopejskie&catid=35%3Ahistoria-piwowarstwa&Itemid=27
Dzięki dziełu „Schule der Bierbrauerei” autorstwa G. E. Habicha, opublikowanemu w 1865 r., możemy poznać kilka technicznych szczegółów produkcji.

Zacieranie odbywało się metodą infuzyjną, zaś obciągniętą brzeczkę gotowano czasem nawet do 20 godzin, aby osiągnąć pożądaną gęstość. Dzięki tym zabiegom z 1000 kg słodu i 5 kg chmielu uzyskiwano ok. 10,5 hl zielonego piwa

http://barclayperkins.blogspot.co.za/2014/06/danziger-jopenbier-again.html

Top-fermented beers, especially Danziger Jopenbier, are discussed by P. Mumme (W. Brauer, 1906, 13). This is a top-fermented, highly concentrated beer, which is seen and drunk more abroad than at home where often not even its name is known. The peculiar smell and taste, reminiscent of port wine, the production methods, fermentation and treatment give Jopenbier something characteristic, because it greatly differs from all other top-fermenting beers from and stands alone in its type. - The wort is left to sponataneously ferment. First of all a thick blanket forms on the surface on which all sorts of moulds grow. These blankets in various vats are again very different from each other in appearance and strength, depending on the points of attack the moulds have found. Gradually, the yeast has developed so that it is able to cause fermentation. - The head, which is often so strong that a 20 gram piece won't fall through it, begins to lift itself. - This is the time when the vats must be covered, because after 2 to 3 days a very vigorous fermentation begins. Before the mould layer has risen to avoid it collapsing. The lids have at the front a wide, somewhat overhanging outlet; through this channel, for 8 to 12 days the beer often pushes out large amounts of loose foam, which is collected in barrels or tubs placed below, until the primary fermentation calms and peaceful secondary fermentation takes place. The foam subsides, the ejected, very bitter beer is filled after the lid is lifted, and the tub is left to itself again. Now in long-lasting secondary fermentation and slow clarification take place, during which the sediment settles. - An analysis of Jopenbier revealed :

Alcohol 3.52%
Real extract 45.04%
Apparent extract 43.20%
calculated OG 49.94%
apparent degree of attenuation 13.49%
Real degree of attenuation 9.81%"
"Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie (1907)", 1907, pages 352 - 353. (My translation.)

49.94º Plato is 1230º in SG. The finishing gravity is 1195º. That's quite an achievement having an FG higher than the OG of a Scottish 160/- Ale.

What can you say about the fermentation, other than that it sounds scary and disgusting at the same time. I wonder what it was that caused the fermentation. The slime sounds like some sort of bacteria, despite being described as mould. Did Saccharomyces play any part in the fermentation?

From the comparison to port wine, it sounds like there was both some acidity and considerable sweetness in the finished beer. Given the description of the fermentation, it would be a miracle if there were no trace of sourness

http://www.chmielowisko.pl/2015/02/04/jopejskie-czy-to-jeszcze-piwo/

Author:

rolandblais

Boil Size: 2.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.059

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.4

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 66 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 6/1/2017 4:28 PM

Notes: The grains are a total guess, used in those amounts to get the Gravity I ended up at when fermentation started. If/When I track down the actual recipe, I'll adjust accordingly.

From the authors:

"This beer's OG should be 1.059 and its FG 1.011."

This 2 gallon batch was created by using 2 1 gallon Brooklyn Brew Shop Mojito Ale kits.

https://brooklynbrewshop.com/products/beer-making-mix-mojito-ale

Instructions are outlined here, but my mashing mashing was done "BIAB" style, no sparging.

https://brooklynbrewshop.com/pages/instructions-mojito-beer

1: The Mash
During The Mash, you're extracting all the sugars, color and flavor you can from grain. You're basically just steeping grain in hot water. It's a lot like making oatmeal.

Heat 2 quarts (1.9 liters) of water to 160°F (71°C).
Add grain (This is called “mashing in.” Take note of jargon. Or don’t).
Mix gently with spoon or spatula until mash has consistency of oatmeal. Add water if too dry or hot. Temperature will drop to ~150°F (66°C).
Cook for 60 minutes at 144-152°F (63-68°C). Stir every 10 minutes, and use your thermometer to take temperature readings from multiple locations.
You likely don’t need to apply heat constantly. Get it up to temperature, then turn the heat off. Monitor, stir, and adjust accordingly to keep in range.
After 60 minutes, heat to 170°F (77°C) while stirring constantly (“Mashing Out”).

2: The Sparge
If you're familiar with brewing coffee, you should have an idea of how The Sparge works. During The Sparge, you put the grain in a strainer and pour hot water over it to draw out all those sugars you created during The Mash.

Heat additional 4.5 quarts (4.26 liters) of water to 170°F (77°C). (If possible, start this during The Mash to save time.)
Set up your “lauter tun” (a strainer over a pot).
Carefully add the hot grain mash to the strainer, collecting the liquid that passes through.
This liquid is called “wort” (pronounced “wert”). It will be your beer.
Slowly and evenly pour 170°F (77°C) water over the mash to extract the grain’s sugars.
You want to collect 5 quarts (4.75 liters) of wort. You will lose about 20% to evaporation later on, so you want to start with a bit more than you’ll end with.
Re-circulate wort through grain once.

3: The Boil
The Boil is probably the easiest step to understand because it's as simple as it sounds. During this step, you're bringing your wort to a low, rolling boil and keeping it there for a period of time while adding things like hops or spices. It's a lot like cooking a soup or stock in that you'll add heartier or bittering ingredients toward the beginning and more delicate and aromatic ingredients toward the end.

In a pot, heat wort until it boils.
Keep boiling until you’ve hit the “hot break” (Wort will foam - you may need to reduce heat slightly so it doesn’t boil over.)
Stir occasionally. All you want is a light boil – too hot and you lose fermentable sugars and volume.
The boil will last 60 minutes. Start your timer and add in the rest of the ingredients at these times:
Add 1/4 Hops at start of boil.
Add 1/4 Hops 30 minutes into the boil.
Add 1/4 Hops 45 minutes into the boil.
At 60 minutes turn off heat. Add remaining Hops, Fresh Mint, and Lime Peel. Dissolve Candi Sugar.
Twenty percent of the wort will have evaporated in this step leaving you with 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of wort. If your boil was a bit high, the surface area of your pot extra large, or you brewed on a really hot day, you may have less than the full amount. Don’t worry – you just reduced your beer a bit too much, but you can add more water in the next step

4: Fermentation
This is when your beer actually becomes alcoholic. During Fermentation, your jugs should sit somewhere out of the way (and out of direct sunlight) while ale yeast turns sugar into alcohol.

Place brew pot in an ice bath until it cools to 70°F (21°C).
Once cooled, place strainer over funnel and pour your beer into the glass fermenter. Yeast needs oxygen. The strainer helps aerate your wort and clarify your beer (as well as catch any sediment from going into the fermenter). Add tap water to bring wort up to 1 Gallon mark if level is low.
“Pitch” yeast. (Toss the whole packet in.)
Shake aggressively. You’re basically waking up the yeast and getting more air into the wort.
Attach sanitized screw-top stopper to bottle. Slide rubber tubing no more than 1” (2.5 cm) into the stopper and place the other end in small bowl of sanitizer solution. You’ve just made a “blow-off tube”. It allows CO2 to escape.
Let sit for two or three days or until vigorous bubbling subsides. This is when fermentation is highest. You may notice bubbles and foam at the top of the beer. After bubbling calms down, clean tubing and ready your airlock.
Sanitize, then re-assemble airlock, lling up to line with sanitizer.
Insert airlock into hole in stopper.
Keep in a dark place at room temperature for two weeks without disturbing other than to show off to friends. (If beer is still bubbling, leave sitting until it stops.)
In the meantime, drink beer with self-closing swing tops, or ask for empties at a bar that has some. If you have a bottle capper and caps, you can save two six packs of non-twistoff beers instead.

5: Bottling (2 Weeks Later)
Once your beer's in bottles, it carbonates naturally with the help of just a little extra sugar. It wakes up your ale yeast (that went dormant during fermentation) to create just enough bubbles for some nice fizz.

Thoroughly rinse bottles with water, removing any sediment.
Mix remaining sanitizer with water.
Fill each bottle with a little sanitizer and shake. Empty after two minutes, rinse with cold water and dry upside down.
Dissolve 3 tablespoons honey with 1/2 cup water. Pour into a sanitized pot. You will be siphoning your beer into the same pot in the next steps.
Carbonation comes from adding sugar when bottling, so if you filled your jug with less than the full gallon in the last step, use less honey when bottling. Using the full amount can result in your beer being over-carbonated.
Siphoning (It all happens pretty fast. You may want to practice on a pot of water a few times.) To see it in action first, watch the How to Bottle video at brooklynbrewshop.com/instructions.
A. Attach open tubing clamp to tubing.
B. Fill tubing with sanitizer.
C. Attach sanitized tubing to the short curved end of your sanitized racking cane. Attach the black tip to the other end - it will help prevent sediment from getting sucked up. It will probably be a snug fit, but you can get it on there.
D. Pinch tubing clamp closed.
E. Remove screw-cap stopper and place racking cane into jug, just above the sediment at the bottom (“trub”).
F. Lower end of tubing not connected to racking cane into sink. Suction will force beer up and through the racking cane and tubing. Open tubing clamp, let sanitizer flow into sink until beer just starts to flow out of the tubing, then clamp shut. Open clamp on tubing, allowing beer to flow into pot with sugar solution. Tilt jug when beer level is getting low, but be careful in not sucking up the trub.
Siphon beer from pot into bottles, pinching tube clamp to stop flow after each bottle.
Close bottles.
Store in a dark place for 2 weeks.

6: Enjoy (Two Weeks Later)
You did it! You made beer.

Put beers in the fridge the night before you drink them.
Drink. Share with friends if you’re the sharing type.