Homebrew Beer Recipes | Page 8043 | Browse 320,000+ at Brewer's Friend

Author:

daniel.griffi@me.com

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.049

Efficiency: 68

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: dextrose

Priming Amount: 3.7 oz

Creation Date: 3/5/2020 10:30 PM

Notes:

Author:

John Nafziger

Boil Size: 6.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.057

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.75

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 72 ° F

Priming Method: co2

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 11/16/2022 2:30 PM

Notes:

Author:

nhendric

Boil Size: 6.6 Gallons

Boil Time: 180

Boil Gravity: 1.056

Efficiency: 72

Mash Thickness: 1.33

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 11/9/2022 7:14 PM

Notes: Accidentally doubled hops

Also, thought I had only 5.1 G but nearly filled keg so 5.5G

OG 1.072 (measured and double confirmed)
Fermented down to 1.09
assume 1.87 OG w sugar (calc below) = 10.24%

DME= 46 Gravity pts =9pts per 1lb per G = 9 pts for a 5 G batch
Honey =35 pts per pound per gallon = 7 pts per pound for a 5 G batch
I did 2.2 lb so 14+1.4=15.2 Gravity pts more
1.072+ 15=1.087

Note adding honey did not change #'s here but should have gotten a 1 % boost or so

did and overnight mash with very slow pump

NEXT TIME - turn timer on and have it do mash out without me, I
believe mash out can run longer without issue and it took 45 min to get from 152 to 168.

had about 6.6 or 6.7 G prior to boil, boiled with top on and only got about .25 G in 1st hr
need to boil w top off and likely keep both burners on if winter

Forgot to add sugar to boil thus my OG was not what I was shooting for. Researched it and for this one did honey to fermenter. Don't want to add immediately but after it has started fermenting as infection is minimized at that point, also want to have yeast nice and active to be able to handle extra sugar. Told to add a bit of water to honey and take to around 140 (Rob from Steinbarts), higher destroys something, accidentally did 150 but took it down quick. Add to fermenter and stir a bit with paddle to work it in (sanitize).

Many use corn syrup as yeast can take it easy and its flavor neutral. Can also just use standard sugar, again heat with some later.

From here:
https://www.beercraftr.com/correct-original-gravity/

I’ve got good news for you lad: it’s pretty easy to adjust your OG! Your friend—no, your saviour—is dry malt extract. I always keep a pound or two of light DME extract in the house, just in case I need it. This is what will save your bacon (or your wort, anyway). You’re going to toss a calculated amount into the wort to boost your gravity up to your target range.

Let’s first cover some basic math. Full credit goes to Brad Smith for these formulas.

Calculate the difference between your target OG and what you ended up with. Multiple that number by 1000 to get a points reading. For example, if your target OG is 1.060 but you’re sitting at 1.035, you’d end up with 25 points—(1.060-1.035) x 1000 = 25 points.
Alright, so now you know, you need to raise your gravity by 25 points per gallon. What does that mean? It means you need to add 25 points/gallon of dry malt extract. If you’re brewing one of my recipes, I aim for a final yeild of 1.3 gallons. So we take 25 x 1.3 = 32.5. We need to add 32.5 points to our wort in this example.
DME has a potential of 1.046, which means it contributes 46 points/lb added. So, we just need to take the 32.5 points and divide it by 46 to get 0.71 lbs DME to add to the wort.
WHEN DO YOU ADD THE DME?
There are two distinct opportunities in the brew-day process for you to add the DME. If you want my advice, take Option B.

Option A (near the end of the boil): The formula I’ve outlined above assumes you’re measuring your OG near, or at the end of your boil. I’ve kept the math simple by assuming your post-boil volume is 1 gallon. However, my recipes are designed to have a post-boil volume of 1.3 gallons, so you would need to adjust the math accordingly. But, by designing my recipes to have a bit more wort than needed, it gives you the flexibility to correct your gravity near the end of the boil. Why? Because if you need to add 10 minutes to the boil, to sanitize the DME you just added, you’ll still have enough wort to transfer to the fermentor. Of course, this means you’re extending the boil, which could impact your IBUs. But at this point, I’d rather have the right OG and risk a slightly more bitter beer than planned. If you don’t want to mess with your IBUs, you could take the gravity reading with 15 minutes to go in the boil, tossing in the DME for the final 10.

Preferable: Option B (before the boil): Ideally, you don’t want to wait until the end of the boil to make corrections. This is why it’s important to measure your gravity reading after the mash, before the boil. Here’s how this works:

You first need to calculate the total gravity points you’re aiming for. Assuming you’re using one of my recipes which have post-boil volumes of 1.3 gallons, and assuming our recipe has a target OG of 1.065, you know that our beer needs to have 85 gravity points to hit our mark (1.3 x 65).
So, your wort is ready for the boil, and you take a gravity reading and it comes in at 1.035. Now you need to multiply those 35 points by the pre-boil volume in your kettle. Assuming you have 2.2 gallons in the kettle, you can determine the total gravity in your kettle: 2.2 x 35 = 77 points.
Now we know that we’re just off the mark: 85 (our target) minus 77 (our current gravity) = 8 points.
From here, we can assess how much DME to add. Remembering from above that DME has a potential of 46 points per lb, we divide 8 by 46 to get 0.17 lbs DME to add to the wort.

Author:

Olive Street Brews and Meads

Boil Size: 8.19 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.055

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.4

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: co2

Priming Amount: 11.75 psi

Creation Date: 11/23/2021 10:38 PM

Notes:

Author:

Jeff Summerlin

Boil Size: 6 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.062

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 63 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/24/2021 10:29 PM

Notes: Toast the coconut prior to brewday. Only use UNSWEETENED Coconut flakes or shredded. I also drop 2 oz of coconut extract in the keg before the transfer. Note that coconut drinks wort...so if you're short of wort for the fermenter - leave it out.

I am hacking the Brewer's Best Robust Porter kit...this is an attempt to get my own AG Robust Coconut Porter. The kit has 6.6 lbs of Amber LME and the last 6 malts as steeping grains.

Author:

bmacattack

Boil Size: 7.25 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.059

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 3/11/2021 7:37 AM

Notes:

Author:

Randizzle

Boil Size: 40 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 15.2

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: 1.25

Sugar Scale: Plato

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/29/2020 12:41 PM

Notes:

Author:

Boil Size: 6.18 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.059

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 8/26/2020 3:39 AM

Notes:

Author:

Boil Size: 15 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.058

Efficiency: 76

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 5/22/2020 10:53 PM

Notes: Whirlpool 160-170

OG - 1.064 5/23

Author:

ad103458

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.057

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: co2

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/25/2020 6:35 PM

Notes:

Author:

TheKrausen

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 45

Boil Gravity: 1.047

Efficiency: 60

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/1/2017 3:50 PM

Notes:

Author:

shrob

Boil Size: 7.24 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.046

Efficiency: 68

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/22/2019 2:06 PM

Notes:

Author:

c c b

Boil Size: 425 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.056

Efficiency: 80

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: 66 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 4/4/2019 3:52 AM

Notes:

Author:

CSmith.mtb

Boil Size: 28.4 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.052

Efficiency: 70

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.35

Primary Temp: N/A

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 2/18/2019 2:33 AM

Notes: I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.
6.5 gallons post boil
5.75 gallons into fermenter
5 gallons into keg

GRAIN BILL:
I have settled in around 1.060 OG. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a session IPA for some peoples preferences.

*If you want a bigger IPA, I would just keep the ratios of grain and increase the amounts to hit a higher OG. I would leave the hops the same the first time as far as amounts, and then adjust if you feel you want more bitterness, dry hop etc. on subsequent batches.

Approximate percent of grain bill and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary so use the percentages)

37.5% Rahr 2 Row (5 lbs)
37.5% Golden Promise (or similar like Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs)
7.5% Flaked Oats (1 lb)
7.5% Flaked Barley 1 lb)
7.5 % Weyerman Wheat (1 lb)
2.5% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

60 minute mash @152-155)

*Note on grain. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 20% range is probably fine too. In fact, based on others input, and based on my own experience – I think you could do all kinds of things with the grain bill and be fine, including dropping a bunch of the flaked, using whatever you want for base malt etc. The two things I do think are good for this beer in regard to grain bill:

1.) Keep it light and simple….. 3-5 SRM. Not much in the way of caramel/crystal malts, etc.

2.) I do like the addition of small amount of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it.

HOPS: (I have gone to 1 whirlpool/flameout addition and 1 dry hop)
**60 Min. = .5 oz Warrior (Or, none at all if you want to lay off bittering addition).

**Flameout/whirlpool =
Chill to 160 or below and add 6 ounces of Hops.
I generally go with 3 ounces of Citra, 2 ounces Mosaic, 1 ounce of Galaxy – but there are plenty of other combinations (listed later on).

I continue chilling at this point now…. No real “hop stand” at a particular temperature. I just like to get the temperature down to 160 or so, get the hops in, and continue chilling. It still takes 20-30 minutes from this point to going into fermenter anyway.

Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so to get hops in suspension.
Chill to 62-65 and let hops settle out as much as possible (just let it sit for 10minutes or so after it is chilled). Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).

**Dry Hop – I now do a single, 6 ounce dry hop around day 2-3. Hops go in loose and they stay in for duration of fermentation. My standard recipe dry hop is 3 ounces of citra, 2 ounces Mosaic, 1 ounce of Galaxy.

I no longer do multiple dry hops. I no longer use dry hop keg….. depending on your system, that might be something you still want to do. However, I have found no difference with a single flameout addition and a single dry hop – plus it is way easier.

WATER PROFILE: Use 100% RO water to start with and adjust to a specific profile.

There are multiple directions to go here. I have kind of settled in with a Sulfate:Chloride of around 120:120. Honestly, I think you could put either number between 75-150 and make a fine beer. It is likely just personal preference at some point if you are in those ranges. I think most people tend to go higher on the Chloride and lower on the sulfate.

100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -
Gypsum = .6 grams/gallon
CaCl = .7 grams/gallon
Epsom = .3 gram/gallon
Lactic Acid = .1ml/gallon

Lactic Acid = I add about .5ml- 1ml of lactic acid to the mash and the sparge. And may adjust a bit more…. Aiming for about 5.30-5.40 mash pH and Preboil kettle pH.

Using B'run Water
Ca = 105
Mg = 8
Na = 8
Sulfate = 120
Chloride = 122
Bicarbonate = 16

Mash pH = 5.35
Final runnings pH = 5.60
Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45
Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35

**Water strategies to test out for yourself to see what you like best;
2:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 150:75 range
1:1 Sulfate:Chloride with both in the 120-150 range
1:2 Sulfate:Chloride in the 75:150 range
All will produce a good beer, but you may find something you personally prefer.
I did go 200 sulfate:50 Cl and it was fine. But, it was not what I was looking for. It definitely “dried” the beer out a bit. I think it definitely moved this beer away from what most of us are shooting for in a “NE IPA.”

Water Profile - the simple solution:

***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with - The simplest solution is this:
100% RO water for both mash and sparge.
Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum
Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.

Or….. to try other versions….
*The opposite: 1tsp of gypsum and ½ tsp of CaCl per 5 gallon
*Equal ratios: ¾ - 1 tsp of each per 5 gallon.

This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.

If you are doing the generic additions above, you could use about ½-1 ml of lactic acid in 5 gallons of mash water and in 5 gallons of sparge water.

ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:
1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams
1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams
1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams
1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams

FERMENTATION:

Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA) or 1318 are probably the two “go-to” yeasts for this.

*** I have also found that 1272 works great. I think there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts. People have played around with quite a few different yeasts, and I think people have been at least satisfied with almost any yeast they tried for the most part. But, I think 1318 and Conan are going to give you the most authentic NE IPA.

I tend to start fermentation off around 64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.

OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:

I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 2 x 6 ounce additions – one at flameout/whirlpool and one for Dry Hop ....... but, not always the same hops. Some other options for hops that I have liked:

· Equal parts Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy
· Equal parts Citra/Mosaic or Citra/Galaxy
· 100% Citra
· 1-2 ounce Galaxy: 4-5 ounce Citra
· Centennial:Simcoe:Amarillo 1: 2.5: 2.5
· Sub in Simcoe for Galaxy
· Other hops that can be used with success: Vic Secret, Eureka, Azacca, Columbus, Amarillo, Simcoe, and others I am sure….. I find the fruity/tropical hops work better than some of the classic piney/west coast IPA hops.

At the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.

Author:

Hedgehog Brewering

Boil Size: 14 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.047

Efficiency: 71

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 70 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 12/6/2018 1:07 AM

Notes:

Author:

jordynferg

Boil Size: 7.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 75

Boil Gravity: 1.047

Efficiency: 60

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 1.0

Primary Temp: 73 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 7/2/2018 5:51 PM

Notes:

Author:

snowmanin1

Boil Size: 7 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.052

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: 0.75

Primary Temp: 68 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 6/7/2018 7:49 PM

Notes:

Author:

Vetivan

Boil Size: 22 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.076

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: 3

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 15 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 5/22/2018 1:58 AM

Notes:

Author:

Pedrodilo

Boil Size: 6 Litres

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.045

Efficiency: 57

Mash Thickness: N/A

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: BIAB

Pitch Rate: N/A

Primary Temp: 18 ° C

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 11/13/2017 1:05 PM

Notes:

Author:

ChrisBartko

Boil Size: 17.5 Gallons

Boil Time: 60

Boil Gravity: 1.06

Efficiency: 75

Mash Thickness: 1.5

Sugar Scale: Specific Gravity

Brew Method: All Grain

Pitch Rate: 0.5

Primary Temp: 65 ° F

Priming Method: N/A

Priming Amount: N/A

Creation Date: 10/9/2017 3:22 PM

Notes: