Show your DIY Projects

[Sunfire96]

Interesting.
I'm lucky if I can cool any lower than about 90 to 100 F so I would always suffer from something I didn't know I was suffering from

I've aerated beer at 100F for a kveik batch, so there are certainly exceptions. My rule of thumb doesn't need to be everyone's

 

[Sunfire96]

I'm mean you boil it for an hour in the open air. Does that not aerate it?

I always bring the temp down to pitching, hit it with 100% O2, then throw the yeast in.

Boiling removes O2 in the wort

 

[Craigerrr]

Boiling removes O2 in the wort

Yes, boiling drives oxygen out, which is why those that use liquid yeast typically need to aerate before pitching.

 

[Sunfire96]

Yes, boiling drives oxygen out, which is why those that use liquid yeast typically need to aerate before pitching.

Yep lol

 

[Minbari]

Ok, I'll buy that.

 

[Craigerrr]

Ok, I'll buy that.

I don't take PayPal, especially for free advice

 

[Megary]

How much do low oxygen practices matter when your beer is packaged cold into a keg and has a shelf life of about a month?

 

[Minbari]

How much do low oxygen practices matter when your beer is packaged cold into a keg and has a shelf life of about a month?

shelf life or that is all the longer it lasts?

 

[Megary]

shelf life or that is all the longer it lasts?

Yeah, my beers usually last 4-5 weeks tops, from the day they are packaged. Granted, 2.5-gallon kegs so it’s not a lot of beer. But my understanding of Lodo brewing is that it is most effective against staling effects to the beer, and these effects are far more important in some styles (say, a German Pils) as opposed to others (say, an English Porter). These staling effects are of the utmost importance to commercial breweries that need to package, ship, store, display, sell their products, not always under the ideal beer conditions. But, for me, while the oxygen police would tut-tut my way of transferring from fermenter to keg, the beer is then stored cold and gone in short order.

Which leads me to wonder if I need to fuss with all the Lodo practices, of which there are very many. Or do I get to pick and choose only those practices that are convenient to me? If I do some of the steps, is that better than nothing? Or, if I don’t go all the way, am I wasting my time by negating any step that I do make?

I’m not being a Lodo skeptic, I honestly don’t know the answers as it applies to my brewhouse.

 

[Minbari]

Yeah, my beers usually last 4-5 weeks tops, from the day they are packaged. Granted, 2.5-gallon kegs so it’s not a lot of beer. But my understanding of Lodo brewing is that it is most effective against staling effects to the beer, and these effects are far more important in some styles (say, a German Pils) as opposed to others (say, an English Porter). These staling effects are of the utmost importance to commercial breweries that need to package, ship, store, display, sell their products, not always under the ideal beer conditions. But, for me, while the oxygen police would tut-tut my way of transferring from fermenter to keg, the beer is then stored cold and gone in short order.

Which leads me to wonder if I need to fuss with all the Lodo practices, of which there are very many. Or do I get to pick and choose only those practices that are convenient to me? If I do some of the steps, is that better than nothing? Or, if I don’t go all the way, am I wasting my time by negating any step that I do make?

I’m not being a Lodo skeptic, I honestly don’t know the answers as it applies to my brewhouse.

Ill be honest, I was mostly poking the bear, lol.

but, I dont know that I much more than purge the keg for my practices. I am carefull to not open (or need to open) the fermenter during the process. but tranfer is through the bottom tri-clamp into the purged keg. from there it is charged and drank.

 

[Megary]

Ill be honest, I was mostly poking the bear, lol.

but, I dont know that I much more than purge the keg for my practices. I am carefull to not open (or need to open) the fermenter during the process. but tranfer is through the bottom tri-clamp into the purged keg. from there it is charged and drank.

Poke away! That comment of mine above was bound to spill out sooner than later.

It really is an interesting topic anyway.

 

[Zambi]

I've aerated beer at 100F for a kveik batch, so there are certainly exceptions. My rule of thumb doesn't need to be everyone's

I was teasing you a bit there @Sunfire96 but I would like to know as there is always room for improvement.

I do small batches, then move pot to sink to cool, using multiple batches of "cold" water. This brings me to 35-40 oC (95 - 105 F)
Then pour into fermenter, combined with fridge water to bring it to the right OG.
The fermenter then goes to the fridge to get the wort to pitching temperature.

I could change this and cool as described, but then put pot (not fermenter) into fridge and transfer and dilute once at pitching temperature (but this takes longer to cool)

No chill won't bring the temperature down far enough.

 

[Ward Chillington]

Does that not aerate it?
I always bring the temp down to pitching, hit it with 100% O2, then throw the yeast in.

No quite the opposite. Boiling removes oxygen leaving water tasting flat...try it, boil some tap water, let it cool and do a side by side with some same temperature tap water.

I do the same routine with 100% oxygen as well; I do about 20 to 30 seconds with an airstone for 5 - 6 gallons of wort then pitch. Since doing that I have always had active fermentation within the next 12 hours.

 

[Ward Chillington]

In the for what it's worth column...here's some reading to get you started on a well formed opinion. Though a 2017 study. I don't think much greater research on this for the homebrewing community would make a difference as the issue has been known to commercial brewers for a long time.

https://brulosophy.com/2017/04/10/t...ow-oxygen-brewing-method-exbeeriment-results/

 

[Ward Chillington]

Btw..I'm in the same camp as you @Megary, if something is around for more than 6 weeks, it probably isn't my best work either!

 

[RoadRoach]

Btw..I'm in the same camp as you @Megary, if something is around for more than 6 weeks, it probably isn't my best work either!

Umm, likewise, and I'm probably hunting a guinea pig to give it to. I rarely have a batch run more than 4 weeks after bottling. With only one fridgadeezer, it's hard to get the pipeline full again. Speaking of which, I have a batch to brew soon.

 

[Zambi]

Same again here.
Small batches and if there are still bottles after 2 months then it is because
1 - I didn't like the beer
2 - I decided on a dry spell
3 - I hid some from myself to try them later.

Note: number 3 doesn't normally work very well

 

[The Brew Mentor]

Have any of you read the book " principals of brewing science" by George Fix?
Over the years a lot has been challenged, but the way I see it, is if you can reasonably avoid HSA, why not?
I will say I believe great beer and long term stability somewhat go hand in hand.
Take the time to do everything right and you should see improved long term results.
Obviously that's my opinion, but why not always try to get better?
Cheers

 

[Megary]

Have any of you read the book " principals of brewing science" by George Fix?
Over the years a lot has been challenged, but the way I see it, is if you can reasonably avoid HSA, why not?
I will say I believe great beer and long term stability somewhat go hand in hand.
Take the time to do everything right and you should see improved long term results.
Obviously that's my opinion, but why not always try to get better?
Cheers

Agree about always trying to get better...as long as I can keep it fun and relaxing. Sometimes they don't go hand in hand.

 

[RoadRoach]

Same again here.
Small batches and if there are still bottles after 2 months then it is because
1 - I didn't like the beer
2 - I decided on a dry spell
3 - I hid some from myself to try them later.

Note: number 3 doesn't normally work very well

I actually managed to hold back 2 bottles out of three different brews one time. Yep, one time.

My Chocolate Oatmeal stout should be getting just about ready to drink now. It was already somewhat fizzy when I put it in the bottles, just from natural carbonation with no pressure. This stuff's gonna have a pretty good head on it I think.