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Hawkbox said:
I feel like i could put something like that together with a bit of planning. I wonder if water quenching mild would hold up or if I should just screw it and use leaf spring.
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It doesn't need to be hard - it's for wood - but tough. Quenched mild is tough. It might bend but I think leaf spring might be overkill. Unless you have a spare chunk...
 
Just a useage note, that little shoulder under the hook...at 11 o'clock off the S on the blade...makes a nice fulcrum to pull the tip out of a log with little effort.
 
Some basic DIY
Needed to fix and extend the cables for my solar lights
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Cables got chewed by this monster
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Hawkbox said:
I feel like i could put something like that together with a bit of planning. I wonder if water quenching mild would hold up or if I should just screw it and use leaf spring.
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Are you ever going to want to resharpen it? How much time do you want to spend sharpening? Hard things are hard to sharpen.
 
I don't think you would need to worry about sharpening a spike like that. It would largely sharpen itself.
 
Made a little cart on castors to move heavy things like kegs full of beer or sanitizer around. Most specifically so I can place full kegs in my serving fridge. I will need to sort out a handle, but it worked perfectly!
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Came up with a convenient way to go from recirculating wort the the CF chiller late in the boil to filling the fermenter. The reason for the stnls tube extending down into the kettle is so the wort isn't splashing. I don't know if hot side aeration is a big deal, or even a thing, but I may as well avoid it
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Craigerrr said:
Came up with a convenient way to go from recirculating wort the the CF chiller late in the boil to filling the fermenter. The reason for the stnls tube extending down into the kettle is so the wort isn't splashing. I don't know if hot side aeration is a big deal, or even a thing, but I may as well avoid it
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Nice wood.
Hot side aeration is a thing, necessary for liquid yeast...
 
Donoroto said:
Nice wood.
Hot side aeration is a thing, necessary for liquid yeast...
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That would cold side, pre pitch aeration. Hot side aeration (during the boil) is a hotly debated subject (pardon the pun), I don't really know anything about it, so I'm not able to join either side of the debate. For all I know it is a brewing myth...
 
Craigerrr said:
That would cold side, pre pitch aeration. Hot side aeration (during the boil) is a hotly debated subject (pardon the pun), I don't really know anything about it, so I'm not able to join either side of the debate. For all I know it is a brewing myth...
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In my experience, it is not a myth. I've learned to never aerate, intentionally or not, between 180F and 80F degrees
 
Sunfire96 said:
In my experience, it is not a myth. I've learned to never aerate, intentionally or not, between 180F and 80F degrees
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What are the potential negative effects Annabrit?
 
That is where I aerate my beer the most.
I have the wort splashing across the top of the exposed portion of the imersion cooler as it cools.
I had thought aeration before yeast addition was a good thing.
 
Interesting.
I'm lucky if I can cool any lower than about 90 to 100 F so I would always suffer from something I didn't know I was suffering from :rolleyes:
 
west1m said:
I had thought aeration before yeast addition was a good thing.
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It is, oxygen is a great way to prep up the environment for the yeast for beer. HSA is a thing in the right conditions, fortunately, not one I've bumped into. A simple Googling will give you more than a day's worth of very opinionated banter and a few good articles from good reputable sources.
 
I'm mean you boil it for an hour in the open air. Does that not aerate it?

I always bring the temp down to pitching, hit it with 100% O2, then throw the yeast in.
 
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