I'd have to order so I'm looking at probably March for a Kolsch, I just don't think I can justify another $60+ MoreBeer order to my wife till I use some of the stock of grains I already haveFor a Kolsch, let's start with basics: Pilsner malt, some wheat (optional, up to 20%) for body, Acidulated malt for pH control as needed, Spalt or other Noble hops, Kolsch strain yeast. 1.044-1.056 OG, 20-30 IBUs. Then let creativity and craft reign.
Any or all of the above could create a good beer. Honestly, there's not much difference between Pilsner and 2-Row. I'd bet you could tell the difference side by side but independently, I doubt it. Your Belgian Pilsner would likely make a better sub. The wheat should be malted. I see Kolsch as a narrow band of Pilsner-like ales. Stray a little into the two-row range and you have a blonde, particularly if you warm it, stray the other way with cool fermentation and restrained ingredients and you have a Helles. I'm going as simple as possible, Pilsner malt, Spalt hops, Kolsch yeast, if I can find a reference, water built to Cologne's specifications, otherwise I'll use the "Light Colored and Malty" profile.I'd have to order so I'm looking at probably March for a Kolsch, I just don't think I can justify another $60+ MoreBeer order to my wife till I use some of the stock of grains I already have
So just a few questions from the noob in the room:
Could I get away with using my briess 2-row brewers malt instead of pilsner? (Cause I could buy hops and yeast without drawing attention)
Malted or unmalted wheat? I'm wanting to do a belgian wit and then a dunkleweizen later this spring so I've got both on my shopping list already.
If not the briess can I just add to the belgian pilsner I'm ordering or do you suggest going German?
I think WLP029 will fit my temp range. Any other suggestions. Thanks for indulging me
Unfortunately (or not) I've got my next two brews lined up ready to go and the next after those two I'm planning on brewing the bohemian. Going to be awhile for me. I can't keep up with some of you!
Mine never got to 1.010, stopped at 1.021. Really rich flavor, though.
As Stated earlier 250mls of fresh 34/70 slurry fermented 14c under 10psi 2 days 3rd day free rise set temp at 18c no heat source just exothermic yeast temp to get there that arvo krausen non existent left here for a few more days then cold crashed to 1c for a few days then transferred to keg drinking now tastes bloody great.
A piece of performance art. Czech Dark Lager art. Yuletide art .. If you look closely you can see a baby in swaddling cloths. 3 wise guys from the East Coast came by and confirmed the image.View attachment 13325
I came in right at 4%, not a bad target for this beer! I used Wyeast, I don't remember the actual strain. I wouldn't try more yeast, that's generally a fairly futile effort since the yeast you pitched, unless it was old or somehow compromised, will ferment to completion. What water did you use for the brew? I used RO with just a bit of calcium chloride. Great flavor but low attenuation. It's tickling in my mind but I can't put a mental finger on the source that these beers generally don't attenuate well due to the extremely soft water used.@Nosybear - The Shady Boh went into the Fermenter at 1.046. It rolled along at 40 F for 10 days. I checked SG & found it at 1.026. I raised the temp to 66 F & held it for 2 days. SG was 1.026. I was puzzled as I was at least 15 points high. I read in your post that you had not gone below 1.021 so I moved to the Secondary & to fridge to cool for Fining.
This morning I recorded dates & SGs. My OG was 1.046 & my FG is 1.026 at 54 F. My ABV calc shows 2.53%. A taste test from FG sample was good. Did you miss your ABV by 50%? I haven't Fined yet. I used Wyeast 2278 Czech Pilsner 2 Packs with a 2 Liter Starter. Options/opinions? Should I try more yeast. Reading Posts above looks like 34/70 is the weapon of choice for Lagers.
Any input appreciated.
Thanx
A piece of performance art. Czech Dark Lager art. Yuletide art .. If you look closely you can see a baby in swaddling cloths. 3 wise guys from the East Coast came by and confirmed the image.View attachment 13325
Ah you bucket will do the job just nicely fermentation under pressure is supposed to achieve a clean fermentation profile at higher ferment temps. It's not critical for a clean lager just ferment cooler and pitch a good healthy cell count and keep em happy.@Trialben - the part I missed was Fermented at10 PSI. Your Fermenter is Pressure rated & you used a Spunding Valve? My fermenter is a plastic carboy, would the Spunding valve & the plastic carboy play nice together? Looks like I need to do some research. My limitation is the Conditioning Chamber. I built it 5 years ago to the dimensions of the carboy. A Brew Bucket is to big to fit inside.
If you look closely you can see a baby in swaddling cloths. 3 wise guys from the East Coast came by and confirmed the image.
If it can hold pressure go ahead but at 5psi I'm not sure this is much worth while.@Nosybear - I used Distilled Water. I added .2 g of CaCl, .2 Mag Chloride & .1 Baking Soda. I used the Bru'n Water ss on BF. Hardness 18, I don't know if that's soft or not.
@Trialben - I have a plastic bucket with deep grooves & o-ring. I have pvc carboys. My basement has a room that's 62 F all winter I where I can use a bucket on the floor. I have a wrap around heater & an Inkbird controller. I guess my question actually is can I use a Spunding valve on non SS fermenter? I see co2 transfers at 3 to 5 psi on plastic carboys, Craigerr showed.