What are you doing with homebrew today?

RoadRoach said:
Your photo makes that motor look like it’s a couple thousand horsepower, lol. 1/3 hp? Nice reduction gear, too. That’s a monster.
Click to expand...

Yes 1/3 hp, the gear drive is probably overkill but I snagged it brand new on Ebay for $80(old stock, was actually made in 1986) instead of the $400+ they sell for retail.

Plan on hooking this up to a fully gear driven 3 roller mill, thinking Crankandstein 3gt.

https://www.crankandstein.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33
 
Worked on the hopper some more, base plate looked too "janky" so I redesigned it. Also wired a new outlet to move the beer fridge in the basement.
 
Bottling Herm's Azacca Wheat. Never used Azacca before so the lemony aroma and taste were simply awesome!

PXL_20220911_211347076.jpg
 
Over The Cliff Brewing said:
How long do meads have to ferment and condition?
Click to expand...

Well according the the One Month method I was following only about 14-20 days IIRC. But that is using Wyeast 1388.
But as usual with "Smack Pack" I did not get any swelling, after a few hours, not sure if it got to cold in my fridge or what the I was still well within the date range on the package. When I get home from work will be just past the 24 hr mark, I have some dry mead yeas on standby in case there is no signs of activity.
 
Texas Ale Works said:
Well according the the One Month method I was following only about 14-20 days IIRC. But that is using Wyeast 1388.
But as usual with "Smack Pack" I did not get any swelling, after a few hours, not sure if it got to cold in my fridge or what the I was still well within the date range on the package. When I get home from work will be just past the 24 hr mark, I have some dry mead yeas on standby in case there is no signs of activity.
Click to expand...
My understanding is mead fermentation is different then beer.
Take this with a grain of barley I've made one but I remember I had to add nutrients every 1/3rd gravity point through fermentation and also degass the ferment either by stiring it or by shaking it my method was the later.
The nutrients were like yeast nutrient but specific for the mead fermentation DAP it's called Diamonium Poshpate because honey is near devoid of any nutrients for the yeast similar to ciders.
 
Trialben said:
My understanding is mead fermentation is different then beer.
Take this with a grain of barley I've made one but I remember I had to add nutrients every 1/3rd gravity point through fermentation and also degass the ferment either by stiring it or by shaking it my method was the later.
The nutrients were like yeast nutrient but specific for the mead fermentation DAP it's called Diamonium Poshpate because honey is near devoid of any nutrients for the yeast similar to ciders.
Click to expand...

You are correct, they do not advocate DAP anymore due to some health guideline, but the use of Fermaid K and O in place of DAP.
There are a few ways to work with adding the nutrients and calculators to help, either by sugar break based on thirds of gravity, or staggered by day.

Degassing from what I am reading and understanding is a MUST as the CO2 levels get toxic for the yeast, and for the first few days inducing O2 is encouraged. Using an airlock without any liquid is the preferred method. A lot of this is a bit counter to my brewing understanding, but then honey water is different from wort....and as it is all simple sugar will ferment out 100% unless the ABV stalls the yeast.

the protocol I am using was developed by a microbiologist in the cancer research field, to make a VERY drinkable mead in 1 month Bray's One Month Mead (BOMM) and relies on the fermenting power and profile of Wyeast 1388....any other yeast while making a decent mead, does not end with a VERY drinkable mead in that time frame.

The whole 47 pages can be found on HBT in the mead forum
 
Texas Ale Works said:
You are correct, they do not advocate DAP anymore due to some health guideline, but the use of Fermaid K and O in place of DAP.
There are a few ways to work with adding the nutrients and calculators to help, either by sugar break based on thirds of gravity, or staggered by day.

Degassing from what I am reading and understanding is a MUST as the CO2 levels get toxic for the yeast, and for the first few days inducing O2 is encouraged. Using an airlock without any liquid is the preferred method. A lot of this is a bit counter to my brewing understanding, but then honey water is different from wort....and as it is all simple sugar will ferment out 100% unless the ABV stalls the yeast.

the protocol I am using was developed by a microbiologist in the cancer research field, to make a VERY drinkable mead in 1 month Bray's One Month Mead (BOMM) and relies on the fermenting power and profile of Wyeast 1388....any other yeast while making a decent mead, does not end with a VERY drinkable mead in that time frame.

The whole 47 pages can be found on HBT in the mead forum
Click to expand...
sounds like you've done your homework yes I remember reading about the BOMM method.
I used Hornindal Kviek yeast for my mead fermentation using the degas and yeast nutrient additions at 1/3rd gravity points through fermentation.
The thread I'm sure is on here I made on it not that it's an reliable source of information lol.
By memory I had about a 10% mead I used lemon myrtle and ginger in the must (is it called this) and it fermented out to near 1.000.
It was a little hot but I drunk them all.

Oh here's the thread https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/mead-making.12672/
 
Put the fermentation keg back in a cooler and surrounded with ice. Will let it crash, which I know I’m not hitting 32 degrees, until Saturday when Ill keg it.
 
Last edited:
Kegged the pale ale that I thought I oxidized. It doesn't taste immediately like cardboard? Somethings a little odd about it tho, hopefully will be fine after a couple days in the fridge

And getting ready to brew my last Base Jumper recipe tomorrow in my old kettle. It's been a fun project for sure! Lots of great beer :D
 
Over The Cliff Brewing said:
Which Base Jumper did you like the best so far?
Click to expand...
Maris Otter and Pilsner, for different reasons of course. MO brought so much to the table for a one malt beer. And I was surprised how different pilsner and 2 row tasted, with Pilsner being less sweet and crackery-er.

I'm getting into the other German malts now, Vienna vs Munich 1 vs Munich 2. Tomorrow will be Munich 2
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Copyright © 2007-2024 Brewer's Friend, Inc. - Send Feedback - Terms - RSS Feed - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information

Back
Top