Oooooooh! Well yeah, I’m not even bothering to remove the sink from the old top. It better fit, lol. I’ll see if I can just set the old top (with sink) on top of the new base. Might have to do a little engineering, but I’m probably overqualified for that part.
Give the granite guys the sink, they know what to do. Even an above-mount sink cannot be installed in mid-air, there needs to be something holding it up. In other words, there's no sink you can install before the countertops are installed.
Well, that’s the way I figured it should work, but maybe they know some tricks I don’t. I’m kinda thinking that they want me to go through all the shenanigans (and expense) of cutting a piece of 3/4” plywood so they can just take it out and use it for a template to cut the top. I have the new sink now, and maybe I’ll investigate the possibility of making the old counter top work “good enough” to hold the new sink and let them spend their money to make a proper template.
Oh common now, all you have to do is connect the Flux Capactor to the Anti Gravity Jack and it will hold its position for as long as needed.
That’s EXACTLY what I’m afraid of. After much ado about how far a farmhouse sink is supposed to stick out and how long the side panels were on the sink, and how it was mechanically impossible to put something 31 or 33 inches wide in a hole that’s 30 inches wide, I was forced to scrap everything I did yesterday to make the sink fit. Much input from someone who has tons of experience of looking stuff up on Youtube (which is a great place to get very bad information), yet ZERO practical experience in actual carpentry or cabinetry(or much of anything else for that matter) the missus’ expert youngest decides to start arguing with me about things I helped my grandfather with before his mother was even a good itch. Being the wonderful protective mother she is, when she knew I was close hammering him about the difference in a GED with no work experience other than fast food and arcade part-time jobs versus a bachelors degree in electrical engineering and nearly 50 years of experience with a lot of different work, she ganged up with him and stopped my plan. UNTIL I figured out how to make her understand that the simply was not going to fit the new base without some serious modifications to the base or the sink. The slot. Once I got that message proven, she figured she’s better off going with experience over blood relationship, which of course made her little snowflake butthurt. Don’t think he’ll be helping me much more. A little bit of know-it-all attitude from someone I know has ZERO experience with what I’m trying to do is basically like a lit fuse. Best for them to RUN. Just because her dad was a master builder there is no reason to think that knowledge and talent genetically passed on. What a fun day yesterday was. About all I got accomplished was cutting the slot wider and deeper to prove everything I tried to explain with measurements and geometry.
Yep. Gonna continue this into the kitchen.
easier to fix panted than solid wood, it should be fine but depending on the thickness of the countertops, not all are the same some are 1.5" some are just built up with thick edge banding, I'm guessing you've contacted them?
That’s the order of business. We’re getting estimates right now for tops. I have a butcher block top for one short one, but the rest will be quartz. I already told the missus I need to know how thick the different vendors’ tops are. Then I can lay a leveling rail at the front and back edges of the cabinets. Shooting for a 36” height.
and don't forget that sink is a head knocker when getting into that cabinet, ask me how I know
Well aware of it, trust me. As agreed on, it protrudes about 4 inches in the center. Gladly it’s her that goes under there a lot more than me. I’m running flexible hoses for supply lines. No soft drawn copper for me, thanks. Even pvc or pex would be aggravating under a sink. I put all new hardware on the drain, so should only have to compensate for height and depth dimensions. New drain connectors are quite a bit lower than the original, but that means shorter pipes. I can make any pipe shorter. But I lost my pipe stretcher and sky hooks a long time ago. We’re also putting a vinyl drip mat in the bottom for leak protection. Looks like it’ll hold a couple gallons before it runs over.
I'm currently redoing the whole house in pex, my lessons are start big and only short runs with 1/2"
Yeah, it’s also a dark (marine) blue, which will hide my booboo even better. This “screwup” is far from being my worst. I found a wire (the hatd way) with a screw while installing one of the cabinets on the wall with the stove. Fortunately for me, it immediately tripped the main lighting breaker (shutting off all non-240V circuits), but I was not pleased. So I gotta cut another hole in the wall to find and fix it (cut the wire, install a j-box, and replace the part that I damaged). Only 3 outlets on that circuit, one where the fridge used to be, one on the east wall of the dining room, and one by the DR window.). The direct short says I probably got both neutral and hot with the screw. It’s only a couple feet from a receptacle so can’t be too hard to repair. Strangely, it tripped the breaker for the countertop outlets and the main lighting breaker. Reset all, but now the one for the old fridge plug trips. Weird. I already changed the first outlet on the countertop outlets to a GFCI. So all in all it’s just another patch in the wall. I’ve already replaced nearly 50% of the sheet rock on that wall. It’s behind a cabinet, so I don’t have to put a pretty finish on it.
All over that for the corners of nonvertical walls and vertical cabinets. And left enough room at the top edge of the wall cabinets for small crown molding. That saves a ton of time cutting in and looks a lot cleaner than trying to paint into corners. Moulding is my friend for hiding original construction screwups. I absolutely despise quarter round, though. I call that stuff dirt collectors.
All this work and you're hooking up a 20 year old dishwasher??
