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Got most of the wiring done. Only thing left to do with wire up the water sensor into the fill connector.View attachment 27230View attachment 27231
That’s some very neat wiring. Looks great. I looked at the controller you used. Cute lil bugger that. Maybe have to looked into some of those for some gubmint projects. Pretty sweet price too.
 
Tops and tile and you're good to go!
Yup. Like I said, the rest is in someone else’s hands. Now is when I get nervous. EVERY vendor we talked to has indemnity clauses or waivers to cover their negligence. Times they are a changing.

Just took all the tools back down to the shop and the missus swept/mopped all the new floors. Gave my shop vac a good hosing and washed out the filter, and put in a new bag. That thing will suck a reflection out of a mirror.

Gonna rent a dump trailer to haul off all the debris from the last 3 projects and clear out the old tool shed to prepare disassembly and temporary relocation. Brew house project officially kicks off tomorrow.
 
That’s some very neat wiring. Looks great. I looked at the controller you used. Cute lil bugger that. Maybe have to looked into some of those for some gubmint projects. Pretty sweet price too.
I know! Does quite a bit what it has.

I got 4 of them for $12
 
Got tired of going to the store to fill my 5gal jugs. So bought a drinking water filter. Only problem with it, takes a few hours to fill and if you forget, it makes a mess. So, of course, it required a project. ;p

Based on the Arduino Nano controller. Will fill the jug and stop when it is full. I designed it so that it will also allow me to bypass the "flavor minerals " filter for beer making purposes.
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Looks great, I just don't know what I'm looking at! Haha
 
This stuff from DAP works well and doesn't shrink unless the depth of the gap is too large: https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/caulks-sealants/latex/alex-flex/
Wasn’t ignoring you. That’s exactly what I’ve been using through all the remodeling projects. I keep a spare tube on the shelf. Little shrinkage, but anything that dries will shrink some simply because of the displacement of moisture, especially latex products which depend on evaporation of ammonia and water to cure.

We painted a room with Behr paint that had a ton of dark blue pigment added, which neutralized the ammonia in the base paint, unbeknownst to us and no advice or warning from the paint department “expert”. Against my better judgment, we changed from Sherwin Williams to Behr because of price. The Behr paint NEVER hardened. 10 years later, it was still tacky and would roll up if rubbed. It was like a thin layer of chewing gum smeared on the walls. A couple heavy coats of Kilz rectified that and I could finally sand down the places where it rolled up. We had a nearly identical problem with red pigment too. The silly dark colors were for a couple teenagers. The drying and shrinking is exactly what smoothes a rolled paint job. I thought at one point I was going to have to rip out the sheet rock in both rooms.
 
Working on making a new outdoor table top.
It's teak, should be able to handle the sun and rain better than the multiplex that was on it before (I'm sure the original top was glass)
IMG_20231110_120555_155.jpg
 
Wasn’t ignoring you. That’s exactly what I’ve been using through all the remodeling projects. I keep a spare tube on the shelf. Little shrinkage, but anything that dries will shrink some simply because of the displacement of moisture, especially latex products which depend on evaporation of ammonia and water to cure.

We painted a room with Behr paint that had a ton of dark blue pigment added, which neutralized the ammonia in the base paint, unbeknownst to us and no advice or warning from the paint department “expert”. Against my better judgment, we changed from Sherwin Williams to Behr because of price. The Behr paint NEVER hardened. 10 years later, it was still tacky and would roll up if rubbed. It was like a thin layer of chewing gum smeared on the walls. A couple heavy coats of Kilz rectified that and I could finally sand down the places where it rolled up. We had a nearly identical problem with red pigment too. The silly dark colors were for a couple teenagers. The drying and shrinking is exactly what smoothes a rolled paint job. I thought at one point I was going to have to rip out the sheet rock in both rooms.
Funny you say the Behr never hardened.
It been at least 30 years ago or so but I sanded down a hardwood floor in the house I had back then. I used Behr brand clear on it. It did not harden, had to scrape, scour, clean and cuss to get it back to wood. Re sand the whole thing again then refinish with a drifferent brand.
 
Funny you say the Behr never hardened.
It been at least 30 years ago or so but I sanded down a hardwood floor in the house I had back then. I used Behr brand clear on it. It did not harden, had to scrape, scour, clean and cuss to get it back to wood. Re sand the whole thing again then refinish with a drifferent brand.
Maybe nobody's told em hey your product don't work:rolleyes:
 
That is pretty gorgeous
Thanks for the flowers. The missus picks the colors, I just do the cipherin’ and gazintas to make stuff fit.

All the white area between the top cabinets and the countertop will be a dark grey subway style tile, 3x12. Gonna run it all the way to the floor behind the stove to give that little bit of heat retardancy on the drywall and studs. Just have a couple areas that simply wouldn’t cooperate with mathematics and available cabinet sizes that someone a lot better at finishing and trimming tile is gonna have to deal with. A good friend has offered to do it for us, so I dodged that bullet.
 
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Thanks for the flowers. The missus picks the colors, I just do the cipherin’ and gazintas to make stuff fit.

All the white area between the top cabinets and the countertop will be a dark grey subway style tile, 3x12. Gonna run it all the way to the floor behind the stove to give that little bit of heat retardancy on the drywall and studs. Just have a couple areas that simply wouldn’t cooperate with mathematics and available cabinet sizes that someone a lot better at finishing and trimming tile is gonna have to deal with. A good friend has offered to do it for us, so I dodged that bullet.
Tile is not nearly as easy as people think, lol
 
I can see why, it looks great. Nice work there.
Couldn’t have done it without her. She’s one of the best coworkers I’ve ever had. We know each other’s skills and talents and when we are getting too far out our wheelhouse we know when to listen to each other. Her dad was a Master Builder in Australia and my grandfather was a cabinet maker and carpenter, so we both had some pretty good mentors.
 
Very nice, I am sure your missus and you will enjoy it.
Thanks. I sometimes have to be that little voice of reason that makes her cool the jets a little and exercise patience on some phases so that we don’t wind up doing anything twice. She gets a little impatient when a project drags on longer than she wants and starts hurrying some parts without considering the impact other tasks are going to have on work we’ve already done. But like I said, she’s still the best coworker I’ve ever had on home renovations. I struggled with her a bit about the barrier between the fridge and the cabinets because she didn’t want blue and didn’t think it would look good. I talked her into letting me show it to her and making my point about that much white surface becoming a cleaning nightmare was a cinch, never mind she was convinced it was her idea and blue was exactly what she wanted.
 
That looks great, I love the butcher block top too.
We like to touch each room with a little bit of wood finish to mingle in something soft with more modern finishes that will appeal to the next owners. Even if it's something as small as a piece of wooden furniture. I just feel like a house starts looking like a hospital when there's no finished wood visible in it. I originally wanted to do all the tops with butcher block, but had to agree it would detract from the color scheme, as well as be a maintenance item, perhaps even a health risk, because it's next to impossible to thoroughly sanitize a butcher block top that doesn't have a heavy urethane finish. Neither of us wants a urethane finish on it because it scratches easily and isn't very durable. It looks horrible when it blisters and separates from the wood. We've peeled that stuff off a couple pieces of furniture we recovered/refinished. A blowtorch is your friend when removing urethane, IF the urethane is properly mixed/cured. Just make sure to do it in a well ventilated area. So we settled on quartz tops and keep cutting boards handy which are a lot easier to properly wash/dry and disinfect. If we ruin that, it's just a cutting board, not a countertop. That removes the inclination to just hack stuff up on the top. Hosing down the kitchen is probably not an option for cleaning as is commonly done in butcher shops.
 

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