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Show your DIY Projects
- Thread starter DanC
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Looks like that'll keep you warm. Very nice.
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I don't see how putting those four things together could possibly go wrong!
It's the perfect combination!
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Not a true DIY project, but I'm not sure why I didn't think of this sooner. My sparge jug does a great job of catching the drizzles when I swing the sparge arm out of the way to stir!
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We'll keep the "noodling" comments to ourselves' this time buddy!
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Update on Frankenchiller.
Went from this
Added spacing to improve thermal transfer
It took 20 seconds to go from boiling to 80C (176F), then to 7 minutes to go from 80C to 21C (70F).
Went from this
Added spacing to improve thermal transfer
It took 20 seconds to go from boiling to 80C (176F), then to 7 minutes to go from 80C to 21C (70F).
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Impressive! Are you using tap water with that or an ice pool?
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Municipal tap water, it is pretty cold this time of year. Will prechill when the weather gets warmer.
Rough drawing of the steam condenser I'm planning. On hold 2-3 weeks until Brewhardware gets the bulkhead back in stock. The idea is to draw from the top of the kettle without losing the ability to open the lid. With the "reinforcing" rib near the top of the digiboil, just putting in a bulkhead would cost too much headspace for my taste, the chiller SHOULD clear the 90 for insertion. If it doesn't may have to make a notch at the top of the kettle to insert it pre boil,
Why not just put a 90 on the lid for the steam condenser? I see the lid clamps on so you shouldn't have trouble with the weight lifting the lid.
You can still open the lid with that setup. The drain and feed lines are flexible.
You can still open the lid with that setup. The drain and feed lines are flexible.
Plan is to have the condenser mounted solid and drain directly into the sink, will be using all 1.5 tri clamp pipe. The problem with that being, I'd have to mess with hot fittings to remove the lid if I mounted the exhaust port to it. Like having everything mounted solid and stable during brew. Figure that between the camlock and tri clamp fittings it should still be easy to tear down and clean.
Ah, I missed that requirement. Why is the hard pipe necessary? Long run? 1 1/2" is way overkill for the effluent. A length of 1/2 or 3/4 CPVC would handle the temperature then you could connect to the steam condenser with a length of flexible tubing. There just cannot be any traps in it.
This is what I have.
BTW it rocks being able to brew inside on January days with no vent hood running flat out.
It's not necessary, I just have access to more than I'll ever use(old milker pipeline system).
Nice! Don't you need some yellow stripes?
