Electric All in ones

[Bubba Wade]

I've been debating whether or not to go to an all in one system. Like you I'm a half batch brewer (2.5-3 gallon batches) but I'm brewing on my stove... Sort of. I use a sous vide wand during my mash to hold the mash temperature and circulate the wort. Then I put my kettle on to the 3300 watt power burner on my Samsung range. I can usually knock out a batch in 3.5 hours. That's strike water to washed gear. Does the gigawort's 4.4 gallon capacity limit you? And how long is your brew day?

I can sometimes knock out a batch in about 2.5 hours of I use a 45 minute mash and a 30 minute boil. I'm usually targeting 3 gallons to the fermenter. There is enough capacity so that it doesn't boil over. It's only 1600 watt, but it's reasonably well insulated. I use the 600 watt setting during the mash and the max power during boil.

 

[Bubba Wade]

There are other good ones out there besides the Gigawort. Digiboil, Anvil, and others. The limiting factor on most of the U.S. Selections is that they are 110 vac. This limits you to 1600 watts. For a faster boil, you have to go 220.

 

[thunderwagn]

There are other good ones out there besides the Gigawort. Digiboil, Anvil, and others. The limiting factor on most of the U.S. Selections is that they are 110 vac. This limits you to 1600 watts. For a faster boil, you have to go 220.

The Anvil 10.5 let's you go 220 or 110 with a flip of the switch and the Grainfather now has a 220 unit available in the US. Hopefully we'll see more of this!

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

That was my dilemma before making my decision to buy one. I figured my brew day will be extended by the long heat times but offset by the shortened clean up and equipment hauling. I hope!

 

[BOB357]

The Digiboil also has a 220V unit available.

 

[FPMBomb]

Anvil Foundry has a smaller system that may interest you. 3.5 gallons maybe? Might be worth checking into.

I'll look for a video on YouTube reviewing the anvil system because it does look sweet.

 

[Craigerrr]

I'll look for a video on YouTube reviewing the anvil system because it does look sweet.

There are no end of videos by multiple vloggers on YT, there are also some that do comparisons of multiple brands.

 

[thunderwagn]

I like the reviews this guy does.
https://www.youtube.com/user/SCBTELEVISON

 

[FPMBomb]

I like the reviews this guy does.
https://www.youtube.com/user/SCBTELEVISON

Oh yes, I've been a subscriber to that channel for some time.

 

[west1m]

I bought the Anvil 10.5 and use it on 220V
Only used it twice so far but really like it. The "dead space" or room below the grain basket is one gallon .

 

[thunderwagn]

I bought the Anvil 10.5 and use it on 220V
Only used it twice so far but really like it. The "dead space" or room below the grain basket is one gallon .

I really liked what I saw in that unit. That 220 sure would be nice sometimes.

 

[Craigerrr]

The 220V systems aren't available in Canada yet that I can see, and therefore the larger G70 and BZ65 are not available either. I contemplated ordering the BZ65 from Morebeer, but was worried that it would not clear customer. Probably just as well, I think the smaller system is better suited to my needs.

 

[thunderwagn]

The 220V systems aren't available in Canada yet that I can see, and therefore the larger G70 and BZ65 are not available either. I contemplated ordering the BZ65 from Morebeer, but was worried that it would not clear customer. Probably just as well, I think the smaller system is better suited to my needs.

I haven't had any problems. The extra time allows me to do other things. You may have to adjust to the fact also that your boil is going to be different also if you're used to a big, rolling, hefty boil. These are mellow boils I do boil longer now.
There is a learning curve with these systems just like any other, but I love my brew days so much more now.

 

[Head First]

I have been looking at going electric and don't want a hodge podge throw together. In comparison to a blitchman make over for my keggles these compact units are almost cheaper. In fact the bigger digiboil is priced so I could buy the masher and another unit for a hlt. I do have an empty 30amp 220 breaker so good to go either way.

 

[Head First]

I have been looking at going electric and don't want a hodge podge throw together. In comparison to a blitchman make over for my keggles these compact units are almost cheaper. In fact the bigger digiboil is priced so I could buy the masher and another unit for a hlt. I do have an empty 30amp 220 breaker so good to go either way.

@BOB357 does your digiboil hold an even temp?
I saw one reviewer who said it fluctuated up to 10 degrees f.
I am considering getting 2, 1 big for brewing and 1 small for sparge water.

 

[BOB357]

@BOB357 does your digiboil hold an even temp?
I saw one reviewer who said it fluctuated up to 10 degrees f.
I am considering getting 2, 1 big for brewing and 1 small for sparge water.

The digital readout will fluctuate a lot, but it will maintain an actual mash temperature +/- < 3 degrees without recirculating and +/- ~1 degree with recirculating. I use a dial thermometer with a 12" stem inserted through the lid to monitor and a floating thermometer in the grain bed that I check when opening to stir.
As an example, I brewed a Pale Ale yesterday and mashed at 150 degrees with recirculation. My strike temperature was 159 degrees. After dough in the display read 159 for several minutes and then gradually dropped to 149, at which time the element was switched on. I use 500 watts to maintain mash temperature. The element remained on for about 4 minutes, until the display read 154 degrees. I had the temperature set to 152. The actual temperature remained between 149 1/2 and 151.
I recommend using the false bottom if you're not recirculating. It seems to dampen temperature fluctuations and help maintain mash temperature. You don't need it if you recirculate. Also, if you don't recirculate I recommend a brew bag inside the malt pipe and a BIAB crush. With recirculation, I crush with a mill setting of .042 and use just the grain pipe bottom insert.
The controller is programmed to use degrees Celsius. When using Fahrenheit settings it will use only the closest degree F to the corresponding degree C. This results in skipping F degree readings. In the mash range I used yesterday, the readouts during the mash were 149, 150, 152 and 154. The available settings would be the same. I use the 35L.110V system, but am pretty sure they all use the same controller.
The difference between the BrewZilla and the DIgiboil are the BrewZilla has a built in pump and a programmable controller. The Digiboil has neither, but you can still step mash by manually changing the temperature setting on the fly.

 

[Head First]

The digital readout will fluctuate a lot, but it will maintain an actual mash temperature +/- < 3 degrees without recirculating and +/- ~1 degree with recirculating. I use a dial thermometer with a 12" stem inserted through the lid to monitor and a floating thermometer in the grain bed that I check when opening to stir.
As an example, I brewed a Pale Ale yesterday and mashed at 150 degrees with recirculation. My strike temperature was 159 degrees. After dough in the display read 159 for several minutes and then gradually dropped to 149, at which time the element was switched on. I use 500 watts to maintain mash temperature. The element remained on for about 4 minutes, until the display read 154 degrees. I had the temperature set to 152. The actual temperature remained between 149 1/2 and 151.
I recommend using the false bottom if you're not recirculating. It seems to dampen temperature fluctuations and help maintain mash temperature. You don't need it if you recirculate. Also, if you don't recirculate I recommend a brew bag inside the malt pipe and a BIAB crush. With recirculation, I crush with a mill setting of .042 and use just the grain pipe bottom insert.
The controller is programmed to use degrees Celsius. When using Fahrenheit settings it will use only the closest degree F to the corresponding degree C. This results in skipping F degree readings. In the mash range I used yesterday, the readouts during the mash were 149, 150, 152 and 154. The available settings would be the same. I use the 35L.110V system, but am pretty sure they all use the same controller.
The difference between the BrewZilla and the DIgiboil are the BrewZilla has a built in pump and a programmable controller. The Digiboil has neither, but you can still step mash by manually changing the temperature setting on the fly.

Thanks Bob for the detailed reply! The temp cycles are the same roughly as with my RIMS set up and the old mash mate 1600. I do very little as far as multiple step mashes. For the diff in price I can use my own pump to recirculate with fittings I probably have on hand. I think my avatar will change soon to a much simpler system. (The boss, #2 brewer, she even thinks its a good idea!)

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

Is it necessary to use a BIAB bag in the Brewzilla? I am going to recrush the grain I have before I mash. Is the screen in the malt pipe fine enough to hold back the fine crush?

 

[thunderwagn]

Is it necessary to use a BIAB bag in the Brewzilla? I am going to recrush the grain I have before I mash. Is the screen in the malt pipe fine enough to hold back the fine crush?

I don't use a bag in my Grainfather but I did have to play with my crush some to get a decent sparge that didn't take all day. I also use rice hulls every brew now to get a nice flowing sparge with the crush that I have adjusted to. I've also found it helps to shut down the pump a few times and give the mash a good stir. This helps with not having as fine a crush and keeping efficiency consistent. I do my last stir with about 10 min left in the mash.

 

[BOB357]

My understanding is the Brewzilla and Digiboil are the same basic systems. The differences are that the Digiboil doesn't have a built in pump or a programable controller. If this is the case, you'll need a bag if you go for a fine crush. I have my mill set at .042. Any finer and I can't recirculate without problems. Any coarser and my efficiency takes a dive. I used a piece of an old brew bag stretched over the malt pipe bottom screen at first, and a BIAB like crush. No way I could recirculate with that method.