Boiling 90 Minutes recipe

[Mont Y. Märzen]

As a professional brewer, we have observed that DMS is still a concern particularly when using pilsner malts. I recommend the article by Scott Janish (https://scottjanish.com/how-to-prevent-dms-in-beer/) for reference. We use a 90 minute boil to boil off DMS when we have significant amount of pilsner malt in our grain bill (BTW ... any hot side hop addition can go in at the specified time). Since DMS can continue to be produced from SMM at high temperatures, we work very hard to cool our wort as soon as possible after the boil is completed. We will cool our wort to 180F in our whirlpool using the glycol chilled heat exchanger. We do not to let the wort rest in the whirlpool for more than 30 minutes at 180F. After the WP rest, we will then knock-out to our fermenter at 54F and can have the entire batch to the fermenter in about 20 minutes. This helps to minimize DMS in the finished product.

I concur after judging many Pilsner-based styles that DMS is still definitely a problem. I don't know of course what the brewers are/not doing, but lots of homebrew has DMS in it. And I've found this in styles that don't traditionally *require* Pilsner malt. Combine that with recipes and forums I see where piles of folks recommend it as a base malt tells me lots of brewers are just brewing regurgitations of 'what some other guy said' rather than trying to research the style and find out *why* a certain malt was used. I rarely use Pilsner myself because I don't like it. But when I do to stay true to a style, I stick with 90-minute boils and always with the lid off. (that's my regular process anyway) I've done some short boils (without Pilsner) for a few beers that were to be consumed promptly at a festival by drunkards, but not for my own stash or competitions.

 

[Mont Y. Märzen]

Didn't know that can do it on ale, benefits are same?
So let's say i do it day 3 for 2-3 days after that i need to drop temperature again to continue the fermentation ?

Forget timings in fermentation for anything but dry-hop or adjunct (think fruit, wood chips) contact time. Those are just rules of thumb for folks who don't have the tools to measure gravity. Everything else about fermentation is driven by relative gravity—that is, what percentage of expected attenuation you've already achieved. Depending on your process and goals, a Diacetyl rest should be done when you have ≈2pts left to reach target FG. (This can be done a tad sooner, perhaps ≈5pts, if you are planning to carb via packaged conditioning)

On that note of measuring gravity during fermentation, while you can take sanitized hydrometer readings, that is always risky for introducing bad microbes and/or oxygen. (and who wants to waste samples?) I'd highly recommend an inexpensive, Brix-only Refractometer to take small ½ounce samples in a shot glass, chill to clarify, and then take a reading. Use the Brewers Friend Refractometer w/alcohol Calculator, or Brewers Friend Brew Log to convert to Specific Gravity. Of course, this method is much easier when you have a spigot or other sampling port on your fermenter. (those are cheap to add to a bucket)

 

[Mont Y. Märzen]

View attachment 30138
I use water from the faucet

For your next piece of equipment I'd opt for a well made coil. Jaded has some of the best. The key is the amount surface area of the coil in contact with the wort. Your coil above has a fair amount sticking out, thus it isn't doing its job. If you really want to make one, study the designs from Jaded to get a good idea of the end goal. But by the time you add up the materials, you aren't far off from the final price of buying one.

And if you really want to brew lagers with that high temp tap water (I have the same problem on the Gulf Coast) then you'll need to look into setting up a separate method of pumping ice water through that coil. (mentioned in another reply) I'd still start with tap to get the bulk of the cooling done (and save ice) and then switch to the pumped ice water once the tap water has stalled out. (my friends do this for their lagers often and it works great) Otherwise, save the Lagers for your coldest Winter months and brew Alts & Ales the rest of the year. (Some Kviek like Lutra can get pseudo-Lager clean at high temps)

 

[Zambi]

Interesting info @Mont Y. Märzen !
I brew small batches and when l wanted to use my immersion cooler, I found it was sticking out far too much.
Ditched it and went to cool in a water bad, changing water every so often.
I've since gone to no chill, or semi no chill (water bad for the first temperature drop, naturally or fridge after that)