Boiling 90 Minutes recipe

Minbari said:
97% of it won't change. If you already altered your ibu for less boil time. It won't matter much
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So why this 90 minutes boil? What is the benefits of this?
What is this 3% win? More bitterness with less hops?
 
Mastoras007 said:
So why this 90 minutes boil? What is the benefits of this?
What is this 3% win? More bitterness with less hops?
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A longer boil will develop more maillard reactions giving it a richer flavor. That is about all I can think of
 
As a BIAB brewer, the 90 minute boil, for me, could be an efficiency thing.

If my goal is to hit a standard post-boil volume and I need a 90 minute boil to get there (as opposed to 60, say) then that means I mashed with more water than usual and ended with a higher “pre-boil” volume. In my brewhouse, a higher water:grist ratio usually gives me better efficiency, meaning I can pull some extra sugars from the mash. I highly doubt that is why the above recipe used a 90 minute boil however. The reason is likely as @Minbari points out, though I’m not sure anyone could tell the difference.
 
Megary said:
As a BIAB brewer, the 90 minute boil, for me, could be an efficiency thing.

If my goal is to hit a standard post-boil volume and I need a 90 minute boil to get there (as opposed to 60, say) then that means I mashed with more water than usual and ended with a higher “pre-boil” volume. In my brewhouse, a higher water:grist ratio usually gives me better efficiency, meaning I can pull some extra sugars from the mash. I highly doubt that is why the above recipe used a 90 minute boil however. The reason is likely as @Minbari points out, though I’m not sure anyone could tell the difference.
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Hmm i do the opposite way, i use less water at mashing + boiling ending with higher gravity wort and after boiling I'm adding more water (boiled) to reach the desired gravity
I'm brewing like this because i have small pot (19 liters) and i want to make 15-16 liters batches, 4-4,5 liters losses
I'm still noob i have no idea what efficiency i have doing this
Anyway is good to know different ways to adjust gravity upward or downward
 
If the recipe calls for a 90 minute boil, there will be a reason for it, possibly as @Minbari says to add a richer flavor.
You can still make the adjustments that you did and do a 60 minute boil, it will be fine
 
Craigerrr said:
If the recipe calls for a 90 minute boil, there will be a reason for it, possibly as @Minbari says to add a richer flavor.
You can still make the adjustments that you did and do a 60 minute boil, it will be fine
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I boil 90 minutes on every Lager for that reason. I think Marris otter in a bitter also benefit from it. You get more bang for your buck in hop utilization too.
 
Josh Hughes said:
There’s also the possibility of DMS from lighter kilned malts But that’s pretty debatable and I know many on here boil shorter with no issues.
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I think, in the past, a 90 minute boil was needed for pilsners to remove DMS. With modern well modified malts I don't think that is required anymore. However, as mentioned above a 90 minute boil still has other benefits.
 
BarbarianBrewer said:
I think, in the past, a 90 minute boil was needed for pilsners to remove DMS. With modern well modified malts I don't think that is required anymore. However, as mentioned above a 90 minute boil still has other benefits.
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Oh yeah. I just threw it out there since it is still in literature about DMS.
 
I will now pitch the yeast in to this.
I brew it yesterday and now just hit the temperature of 13 Celsius (old refrigerator)
I will use Saflager W34/70 s23 was not available
Truth is i used also different kind of hops also not available both of those recipe required
So it's completely different recipe but anyway
I hope to be the first of my best beer, all my brews no one of them was perfect few of them was drinkable but all have some mistakes, this one until now seems to be great evening went good and calculations seems ok
Og was little bit lower but ok
 
I just make a thought,
I have my bucket in the refrigerator without yeast for 27 hours, i pitched the yeast and the fermentation will start in couple of hours
All this hours with oxygen can cause oxidation?
 
Mastoras007 said:
I just make a thought,
I have my bucket in the refrigerator without yeast for 27 hours, i pitched the yeast and the fermentation will start in couple of hours
All this hours with oxygen can cause oxidation?
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Oxygen before the yeast is never a problem. Only after the yeast is put in.

So, no worries about oxidation.
 
Mastoras007 said:
I just make a thought,
I have my bucket in the refrigerator without yeast for 27 hours, i pitched the yeast and the fermentation will start in couple of hours
All this hours with oxygen can cause oxidation?
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The only risk is giving bacteria or wild yeasts a head start on the wort. While sanitation is always very important, it's critical when you aren't pitching right away. I know you've had problems with infections in the past. Is this your standard procedure? I'm assuming the wort is warm when you put it into the fridge and you are using a standard 5 gallon bucket. Since the lids on those are not airtight I wonder if air (containing bacteria or wild yeast) is being drawn into the bucket as the wort cools. Just a thought.
 
Yeah, what Barbi says... waiting to pitch is ok as long as your fermentation tank is clean. There's always the chance that wild spores could be introduced but the goal is for the good yeast to defeat any growth of a bad bacteria or other wild yeasts. So...what did you do to keep things clean and avoid any "suck back" due the vacuum created while the wort cools?
 
Ward Chillington said:
Yeah, what Barbi says... waiting to pitch is ok as long as your fermentation tank is clean. There's always the chance that wild spores could be introduced but the goal is for the good yeast to defeat any growth of a bad bacteria or other wild yeasts. So...what did you do to keep things clean and avoid any "suck back" due the vacuum created while the wort cools?
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the only thing i did, i use star san on airlock
but what is the diffrence if suck some air, have already air inside because few hours ago i just put it in the bucket.
i mean is same air the danger exist if it suck or not
 
Mastoras007 said:
the only thing i did, i use star san on airlock
but what is the diffrence if suck some air, have already air inside because few hours ago i just put it in the bucket.
i mean is same air the danger exist if it suck or not
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This main difference is that if you are delaying the addition of yeast. The cooling process pulls in air, which has bacteria and wild yeast in it. If those take hold and start fermentation before the intended yeast, you get a sour beer or an infection.
It's possible anyway.

This is why you want to get the yeast in there as soon as possible
 
Minbari said:
This main difference is that if you are delaying the addition of yeast. The cooling process pulls in air, which has bacteria and wild yeast in it. If those take hold and start fermentation before the intended yeast, you get a sour beer or an infection.
It's possible anyway.

This is why you want to get the yeast in there as soon as possible
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Understand.
That's why I need to find a way to cold it faster, I use copper pipe now but can't drop it under 30-40 or it taking for ever,
How to you cold your wort? Do you have glycol cooler?
 
Mastoras007 said:
Understand.
That's why I need to find a way to cold it faster, I use copper pipe now but can't drop it under 30-40 or it taking for ever,
How to you cold your wort? Do you have glycol cooler?
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Ya, i use glycol.

You should be able to cool it in a few hours, i would think.

How are you cooling it now?
 
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