Propane Burner To Boil Wort

[JoshuaGates]

Hi Brewers,

So I recently made some significant (for me) changes to my hobby. I am now going 100% all grain. This means larger vats of wort to boil and my old 1500 watt convection cooktop just can't handle it. So, I bought a propane burner. Not going to mention which, because I'd like this advice to be universal.

I searched the forums and couldn't find a dedicated topic about how to use a propane burner correctly. Therefor, I'm hoping the OG's in here will drop some advice.

I think this would be a typical volume amount for most home brewers. Boiling 7-7 1/2 gallons of wort to make 5 gallon batches of beer.

Question 1: Do you just turn your propane regulator up as high as it will go to get the boil started or do you start moderatly? I've heard you can burn the wort if the heats too high to start the boil?

Question 2: Do you keep the kettle covered or uncovered?

Question 3: Boil over sounds to be a regular subject, so any tips on the best methods for controlling this would be helpful.

I'm just getting this thread started, so please, all you OG's, drop some knowledge and help us newbies to propane boiling out.

Sincerely,
Joshua
The Cellar Pub

 

[Sandy Feet]

Your water level will depend on your method and boil off rate. For BIAB in Florida, I actually start with 8 gallons of water.
1. It depends on the burner. I have a Hell Fire that goes 110,000 BTUs. I don't turn that thing all the way up unless it gets really cold outside. You don't want is so hot that you have a massive hot break, and you want your boil to be a rolling one. not one that is out of control if that helps.
2. UNCOVERED!!! The only time you cover that thing is when you are mashing.
3. Get a 16 gallon kettle.

 

[J A]

Yes to all That^^^
Most turkey-fryer burners will do the job. The only difference is that the bigger the burner, the sooner you get up to temp. After it reaches boiling temp, you turn it down to a hard simmer. Also, the bigger the burner, the more likely you are to boil over. If you're outside and it's relatively cool or windy, it's a little hard to hold the perfect boil and you may have to babysit the control valve a little..

 

[Minbari]

Just 1 observation, going all grain doesn't have to mean larger batches. plenty of all grain brewers on here that do 2-3 gallon batches.

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

I have a Dark Star 2.0 burner (65k BTU). I turn the burner up to where the flames are significantly yellow (which means poor combustion) then turn it down just enough so the flame is blue. I've never had a problem with scorching the wort. I think that's more of a risk with electric.

Boiling uncovered is by far the best option. However, if it's a windy day, or I'm trying to reach boiling quickly, I'll have the lid 75% on. However, it's important to boil uncovered for at least the final 20-30 minutes or so DMS and it's precursors can be boiled off. With modern, well-modified malts, I don't think that's not a huge risk anymore. In addition to DMS boil-off, it's harder to catch a boil-over before it happens because you can't see the surface of the wort. Quite often I start with a very full kettle. I use the kettle thermometer to see how close to a boil I am. When it gets close, I watch it like a hawk. In one hand I have my spoon so I can push aside the foam to keep an open area on the surface and my other hand is on the propane burner control. At the first sign of a boil-over, I kill the gas.

 

[J A]

Just 1 observation, going all grain doesn't have to mean larger batches. plenty of all grain brewers on here that do 2-3 gallon batches.

I would agree with that but add that relatively large batches might make a more efficient grain bed for using a traditional fly sparge. Or more accurately batches that are matched to the size of the vessels.
If I try to do small batches in my 16 gallon tun, the grain bed is too thin and won't hold up very well. I have a smaller 8-gallon vessel that I used to use and that works much better for mashing smaller batches.

 

[Donoroto]

1. Yes, too hot can scorch the wort. At first, full bore is ok, once it gets warmer dial it back… or just go slow the whole time.
2. The answer above regarding DMS is good. Fully-covered boils will risk unpleasantly flavored beer. On your first boil, sniff the steam: that ‘creamed corn’ odor is DMS, and if it isn’t boiled off, it stays in the beer.
3. Boil over is an inescapable fact. The proteins will always cohere into foam, just like when boiling pasta. You must watch for it! When it happens, either stirring or spraying water from a spray bottle will burst the bubbles and knock it down. On my equipment, it lasts for 4-5 minutes at most.

Good luck!

 

[Firerat]

What size kettle are you using? 5 gallons of wort in a 7 gallon kettle is going to be anxiety inducing madness. You really have to babysit it. Having a lot of extra head space is nice.

Also, don't cover it. For all the reasons listed above. Alnd boil overs really suck and can sneak up on you quick with the lid on. It only took 1 for me to never cover.

 

[Semper Sitientum]

One comment about boil overs. Anti-foaming agents work very well. There are several out there, but I use Foam Axe. One drop per gallon of wort from the included eye dropper and you don’t have to babysit your kettle.

 

[Daniel Parshley]

To add to the other good comments here. I started with a fryer burner and upgraded to a good banjo style burner that is far superior, no carbon black buildup, and even heating. I made a tinfoil wind screen to go around the bottom of the burner to keep the worst of the wind off and it does help a good bit. I never cover my pot unless I'm standing right there. Even then, the boil over can come quickly before heat break. A cup of cold water has come in handy more then once to kill a rapid foam-up (and stir, stir stir). Heat Break - I find heating until just starting to boil, turn off, and then covering and let sit for 15-20 minutes makes the heat break go a lot smoother and less chance of a boil over as I get boiling and add hops. It likely not the right way but works for me.

 

[Brew Cat]

I agree, you really don't need a high end burner. I have a jet burner and haven't used it on a while. Its to hot. I actually found a nice three burner unit at the dump. Just needs a regulator. Has some quality burners I'll probably scavenge and replace my other burners. Has a nice stand though.

 

[YaroBeer]

Answer 1: I do open propane as much to make it burning efficiently to boil as fast as possible. I haven't met any burning issues yet.

Answer 2: uncovered

Answer 3: Boil over happens sometimes, I try to watch it and turn off part of burner just in time. I can burn only one side of burner, which helps to make nice circular flow in the kettle, which helps. Trying to put the foam back to liquid with some tool or blowing to the foam helps

I brew outside and it's quite windy here, so I usually put the big carton box around the burner and the kettle to protect the flame

 

[Sandy Feet]

The box doesn't catch on fire from the propane burner? Beach chairs work too. Lessons learned from going to the beach in Daytona in the 80s during the winter LOL

 

[YaroBeer]

The box doesn't catch on fire from the propane burner? Beach chairs work too. Lessons learned from going to the beach in Daytona in the 80s during the winter LOL

Of course it should not be too close. I use the very same carton box since 2019, it survived 40+ brew sessiosn, and it only took a bit of color when I was not careful enough Maybe I should change it for the new one, but this one has good dimensions

 

[Brew Cat]

That bench to the left. My wife has 2 of those. Reclaimed from an old railroad station waiting room

 

[Mont Y. Märzen]

Of course it should not be too close. I use the very same carton box since 2019, it survived 40+ brew sessiosn, and it only took a bit of color when I was not careful enough Maybe I should change it for the new one, but this one has good dimensions

Wind usually interferes with my brewing opportunities. I've been planning to make a metal screen, as I'm skittish about combustables so close to fire, but if you've used the same box for 40 batches, it can't be that dangerous.

 

[BarbarianBrewer]

Wind usually interferes with my brewing opportunities. I've been planning to make a metal screen, as I'm skittish about combustables so close to fire, but if you've used the same box for 40 batches, it can't be that dangerous.

@Mont Y. Märzen , a wind screen doesn't need to be fancy. Mine is just an extra piece of duct pipe that I flatten and folded in half. I put a brick on the back of both sides to keep the wind from blowing it over. The horizontal plate is another surplus piece of metal and that is just to keep the heat from directly hitting the ball valve; not really needed, just insurance.

Or as @YaroBeer shows, it can even be a cardboard box. That is assuming it's not near a house, garage or California!

 

[Brew Cat]

Answer 1: I do open propane as much to make it burning efficiently to boil as fast as possible. I haven't met any burning issues yet.

Answer 2: uncovered

Answer 3: Boil over happens sometimes, I try to watch it and turn off part of burner just in time. I can burn only one side of burner, which helps to make nice circular flow in the kettle, which helps. Trying to put the foam back to liquid with some tool or blowing to the foam helps

I brew outside and it's quite windy here, so I usually put the big carton box around the burner and the kettle to protect the flame

wow with that much wort I would think you boil over a lot. Barbarians kettle looks more manageable. I use a 10gal kettle for a 6.5 gal boil. Used to use a 8 gallon but don't care to babysit

 

[Mont Y. Märzen]

wow with that much wort I would think you boil over a lot. Barbarians kettle looks more manageable. I use a 10gal kettle for a 6.5 gal boil. Used to use a 8 gallon but don't care to babysit

If I ever upgrade to a real kettle over my current custom Bayou Classic setup, I'll go with Spike because they oversize their pots by 20% just for this reason.

I have found that with no-sparge BIAB, for any given batch size, you need double that capacity for the kettle. More doesn't hurt, especially if you want to make high gravity beers.

 

[Mont Y. Märzen]

@Mont Y. Märzen , a wind screen doesn't need to be fancy. Mine is just an extra piece of duct pipe that I flatten and folded in half. I put a brick on the back of both sides to keep the wind from blowing it over. The horizontal plate is another surplus piece of metal and that is just to keep the heat from directly hitting the ball valve; not really needed, just insurance.
View attachment 31514

Or as @YaroBeer shows, it can even be a cardboard box. That is assuming it's not near a house, garage or California!

Thanks for the idea on the ducting material. I'll keep that in mind when shopping. As for my ball valves, I use heat shields from BrewHardware:

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1848.htm