Yeast for a Russian imperial stout?

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

Just dillute to the proper OG...A little water ain't gonna scare anything out of a beer that big. Check the boiloff and dilution calculator in the tools section and it'll tell you exactly how much to add.

plugged in my current gravity which was 1.130 and the desired beginning OG which was 1.098, at 5 gallons, said new volume 6.63 difference of 1.63, does that mean i need to add 1.63 gallons of water?

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

plugged in my current gravity which was 1.130 and the desired beginning OG which was 1.098, at 5 gallons, said new volume 6.63 difference of 1.63, does that mean i need to add 1.63 gallons of water?

Also could i just dilute it in secondary or when i package it?

 

[Head First]

Also could i just dilute it in secondary or when i package it?

Don't jump to conclusions guys. Go down to your lhbs and get another pack of yeast, make a starter and when it gets going throw it in too. Your shy on yeast but not out of reason. Just add more before it slows down to much. Maybe stir some for some o2 but that would need to be done in early stages of fermentation. I think that needs done in first 2 or 3 days.

 

[Head First]

Don't jump to conclusions guys. Go down to your lhbs and get another pack of yeast, make a starter and when it gets going throw it in too. Your shy on yeast but not out of reason. Just add more before it slows down to much. Maybe stir some for some o2 but that would need to be done in early stages of fermentation. I think that needs done in first 2 or 3 days.

If you're going starter? Just get a couple of packs of yeast. Best chance would be wyeast smack packs, then the yeast would be active when it hit the wort. If its available 1728 would be a go to of that brand.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

If you're going starter? Just get a couple of packs of yeast. Best chance would be wyeast smack packs, then the yeast would be active when it hit the wort. If its available 1728 would be a go to of that brand.

Ok, it started early this morning and is going pretty good at the moment, maybe i can grab some tmw afternoon.
As far as my gravity being off, should i leave it or dilute it to the estimate and see what i get out of it?

 

[Head First]

Ok, it started early this morning and is going pretty good at the moment, maybe i can grab some tmw afternoon.
As far as my gravity being off, should i leave it or dilute it to the estimate and see what i get out of it?

Ok, it started early this morning and is going pretty good at the moment, maybe i can grab some tmw afternoon.
As far as my gravity being off, should i leave it or dilute it to the estimate and see what i get out of it?

As is you would have a 14%abv beer IF you could get it down to 1.020. If you have the space in fermenter for dilution it wouldnt hurt. I have seen that wyeast go to 14% but lots of other things need to be understood and some special steps in order for that to happen. Dont know what the yeast you used is good to.
In other words yeast will only tolerate so much alcohol. Some are more tolerant than others.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

As is you would have a 14%abv beer IF you could get it down to 1.020. If you have the space in fermenter for dilution it wouldnt hurt. I have seen that wyeast go to 14% but lots of other things need to be understood and some special steps in order for that to happen. Dont know what the yeast you used is good to.
In other words yeast will only tolerate so much alcohol. Some are more tolerant than others.

two packs of mangrove jacks m42 at 10g and wyeast 1388 belgian strong ale liquid packet (messed up liquid yeast packet and was able to save about half of it) if it will even go. mangrove jacks says it was good to 12% but my og came in at 1.130 instead of 1,098

 

[J A]

Also could i just dilute it in secondary or when i package it?

The point of diluting in the fermenter is to provide a more suitable environment for the yeast. Too much sugar in solution will stress the yeast if you don't have enough. You could simply pitch the proper number of cells of a yeast designed for that sort of gravity/abv but that's not what you're after. You risk a nasty stall with a gravity that high if you're not prepared with a proper pitch.

 

[Head First]

two packs of mangrove jacks m42 at 10g and wyeast 1388 belgian strong ale liquid packet (messed up liquid yeast packet and was able to save about half of it) if it will even go. mangrove jacks says it was good to 12% but my og came in at 1.130 instead of 1,098

It is very difficult to make good beer over 12%. The 1388 will help but it is only good normally for 13%. I had not run the numbers to see how far off you were. Under perfect conditions as is you could possibly end up with an unfinished fermentation. Dilution may be your best option.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

The point of diluting in the fermenter is to provide a more suitable environment for the yeast. Too much sugar in solution will stress the yeast if you don't have enough. You could simply pitch the proper number of cells of a yeast designed for that sort of gravity/abv but that's not what you're after. You risk a nasty stall with a gravity that high if you're not prepared with a proper pitch.[/QUOT

I will dilute tmw with about 1.5 gallons, should i add it slowly or aerate it to give oxygen to yeast?

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

It is very difficult to make good beer over 12%. The 1388 will help but it is only good normally for 13%. I had not run the numbers to see how far off you were. Under perfect conditions as is you could possibly end up with an unfinished fermentation. Dilution may be your best option.

if it started to ferment late last night early this morning, will dilution be ok until tmw morning?

 

[Head First]

if it started to ferment late last night early this morning, will dilution be ok until tmw morning?

I have never diluted a beer at any stage but hear about lots of people who do. Will leave dilution questions to @J A.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

Do I need to boil it or just add it from my tap like when i topped it off to 5 gallons?

 

[Head First]

Do I need to boil it or just add it from my tap like when i topped it off to 5 gallons?

If your tap is good for top off water it should be good for dilution at same temp as wort. Don't want to shock the yeast. This early in fermentation o2 should help more than hinder. Shouldn't need to boil. JUST a side note, make sure your tap is clean. Water in a monitored system is sanitary so the only chance for a bug is from where air can contact the water, ie. the tap.

 

[J A]

The best time to correct OG issues is before fermentation begins. It's not often that dilution is desirable for reasons other than bulking up your volume. In a case like this, the OG is far enough out of range that it may be necessary to make the beer work. Since it's already going, the yeast have reproduced and used up a lot of oxygen present in the wort. Diluting may give the yeast a break but pitching more along with the dilution water will surely help.Some extra aeration will probably help things along. You might do a quick gravity check to see how far the fermentation has progressed. Probably not particularly far, but it'll be good to know that it's still in the very early stage.
When I add water to top up a fermenter (usually not more than a quart or two), I usually just fill a sanitized vessel with the same filtered tap water I brew with. I've never had any problems. You can use bottled water from the supermarket if you're not confident of your tap water or faucet. Since the wort/beer is low PH and there's some alcohol present from the commencement of fermentation, the risk of infection is lower than it would be otherwise.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

Done, I was super scared im gonna screw this up, took a reading before adding water, was at 1.102, still alot of sugar in the beer, smells great, will grab some yeast this afternoon to toss in this evening. Also my tap water has a whole house filtration on it, not a major one, just one for particles and smell and normal shit. so im not too concerned about the water. hopefully she continues to ferment after what i just did.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

Done, I was super scared im gonna screw this up, took a reading before adding water, was at 1.102, still alot of sugar in the beer, smells great, will grab some yeast this afternoon to toss in this evening. Also my tap water has a whole house filtration on it, not a major one, just one for particles and smell and normal shit. so im not too concerned about the water. hopefully she continues to ferment after what i just did.

she is fermenting more steady than before, maybe because of less head space or what?

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

Can I make a starter with the sample i just took?

 

[Nosybear]

Do I need to boil it or just add it from my tap like when i topped it off to 5 gallons?

I'd boil it to drive off the air (and sanitize any of those "coliforms" sometimes found in tap water). If it were my beer, I'd dechlorinate it as well. One of the hallmarks of concentrated boils (where you make a high gravity wort and add water) is the chlorine and oxidation flavors that wind up in the beer. Boil the water first, add a bit of metabisulfite to get rid of the chlorine/chloramines and your beer will thank you.

 

[wi6673r@icloud.com]

I'd boil it to drive off the air (and sanitize any of those "coliforms" sometimes found in tap water). If it were my beer, I'd dechlorinate it as well. One of the hallmarks of concentrated boils (where you make a high gravity wort and add water) is the chlorine and oxidation flavors that wind up in the beer. Boil the water first, add a bit of metabisulfite to get rid of the chlorine/chloramines and your beer will thank you.

I just added straigh tap, it is still early in fermentation so i dont think the oxygen will hurt, never have tested my water but it seems odorless and is filtered, i may test it on the next beer just to see.