Y fitting for my regulator

Simonpyman

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Maybe i am blind but I have looked on the websites for komos, kegco and amazon and cant find the Y fitting I need. I need a Y fitting that connects to the komos regulator that is female to two male threaded ends (1/4”). That way I can attach to the main line via a duo tight fitting and the other to a shutoff valve which will connect line to be used for my beer gun.

Any suggestions? Does the threaded end that comes out of the regulator removable? The picture in the instruction page shows a y fitting going into the regulator (different brand)
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It doesn't have to be a 'Y' fitting. Any compatible 3-way fitting is going to do the job. Like a 'T', no?

Even these budget quality Kegland fittings:
 

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It doesn't have to be a 'Y' fitting. Any compatible 3-way fitting is going to do the job. Like a 'T', no?

Even these budget quality Kegland fittings:
Yeah T or Y, that fitting wont work as its the push in type. Using that would require tubing and finding a threaded attachment etc.
 
You have a tube coming from the fitting on the regulator, no? Use that. You can have it threaded, one end or both or whatever. It doesn't matter at the end of the day.
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Use what you can get. It doesn't need to look anything like the pic in the reg manual. Often you'll end up with something better anyway. ;) Also, for what it's worth, you don't really need shut-off valves on your splitter. In most cases, that's like having a second set of breaks on your truck. A released disco on the end of the line is sufficient to cut the supply.
 
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You have a tube coming from the fitting on the regulator, no? Use that. You can have it threaded, one end or both or whatever. It doesn't matter at the end of the day.
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Use what you can get. It doesn't need to look anything like the pic in the reg manual. Often you'll end up with something better anyway. ;) Also, for what it's worth, you don't really need shut-off valves on your splitter. In most cases, that's like having a second set of breaks on your truck. A released disco on the end of the line is sufficient to cut the supply.
No, i get that it doesn’t have to be exactly what is shown but i want to be able split off from the regulator and not the line going inside to the kegs. I could use one those lines but need to find a fitting that will connect the duo tight fitting end to the metal screw end (which connects to the beer gun) shown in the picture
 
Same problem/solution. Been there myself with the Blichmann beer gun, when my dual regulator packed up. You can get a 'stem-barb' connector to work with what you already have. Just cut off the 1/4" swivel nut.
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Or if you're a cheapskate like me, this:
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$16 at Harbor Freight. Uses standard industrial air quick-disconnects. I added a valve on each hose: mating coupler > valve (screws in) > Hose Barb > Hose > Gas ball-lock quick-disconnect. That way I don't have to disconnect anything if I want one keg at a different pressure than the others.
 
This is the way. I have a 2-way regulator for my kegerator. One for burst carbing and then the other going to a 3-way for if I have multiple kegs in there for normal pressure.
Not to be a one-upper, but....... i have a dual reg on the co2 tank. One for the kegerator, one for pressure transfers.

Inside the kegerator i have a 3 reg manifold. Each keg can be set individually
 
Not to be a one-upper, but....... i have a dual reg on the co2 tank. One for the kegerator, one for pressure transfers.

Inside the kegerator i have a 3 reg manifold. Each keg can be set individually
i guess i could also upgrade to a dual regulator as well
 
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/mi...zxNANz9DKcPM7bI40irDWr0qhkP22ERoaAst2EALw_wcB

this one is 3/8, but if you search 2 valve co2 manifold and dig a little you should be able to find something that works. OR buy a "3/8 MNPT x 1/4 Barb" fitting and then change your beer lines to 3/8(this is very starndard for draft systems). i use food grade Braided vinyl.

Also those stepless ear clamps(oetiker clamps) are the best way to go here. they are by far the best type of clamp for brewery stuff.
 
Or if you're a cheapskate like me, this:
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$16 at Harbor Freight. Uses standard industrial air quick-disconnects. I added a valve on each hose: mating coupler > valve (screws in) > Hose Barb > Hose > Gas ball-lock quick-disconnect. That way I don't have to disconnect anything if I want one keg at a different pressure than the others.
only neg to this guy is that you really want to use SS for that male end as the mild steel will def rust. you can get SS ones from www.Mcmastercarr.com

Brass is ok, but SS is better. Brass really shouldnt touch your beer though. a SS Faucet is clutch a worth while investment, unless you like drinking flaked off Chrome finish and then brass.
 
only neg to this guy is that you really want to use SS for that male end as the mild steel will def rust. you can get SS ones from www.Mcmastercarr.com

Brass is ok, but SS is better. Brass really shouldnt touch your beer though. a SS Faucet is clutch a worth while investment, unless you like drinking flaked off Chrome finish and then brass.
This is for gas lines though.

$43 is allot. $12 on Amazon for that
 
This is for gas lines though.

$43 is allot. $12 on Amazon for that
agreed, but micromatic is high quality. I am sure you can get it on amazon for cheaper lol.

SS is always better. think about humidity and the way that those QD work is with ball bearings which quickly rub off the chrome plating on the Male QD which then rusts. The brass females are fine for this, its just the steel male end that will rust. a non-chrome plated brass version would be better then the steel.

Im also in a different environment, chemicals and everyday use/wear. all of my gear is SS, plus the cost of brass is basically the same as SS at this point.
 

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