Their finicky little buggers!
My one reads off if I bump it might need to do the same soon.
What did you get delivered today
- Thread starter Ozarks Mountain Brewery
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My one reads off if I bump it might need to do the same soon.
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Some goodies
Finally got my order from MW: 20 lbs 2-row, 10 lbs. Maris, 5 lbs. Barke Munich, and a few specialty malts. Also 8 oz. Hallertau hops.
Along with what I already have on hand, I should be set for winter brews!
Along with what I already have on hand, I should be set for winter brews!
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Today, curtesy of our favorite sign and tap handle artist Don, I received a new addition to my brewery! I was blown away! Absolutely beautiful isn't it?
Unfortunately, I'll be out of town this weekend so won't be able to show it off at the meeting on Saturday.
Unfortunately, I'll be out of town this weekend so won't be able to show it off at the meeting on Saturday.
A 12" weldless thermowell from Brewers Hardware, for my 2nd Brew Bucket. I drilled a 31/64" hole in the center of the lid and bolted it in.
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44 pounds of grain for my next two beers in January and some of the hops. Going to brew a Munich Helles and a Salted Caramel Porter for my better half.
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Bottle supply was getting low, took advantage of Black Friday deals and ordered 20 cases of bottles and UPS driver brought them today. Driver is a craft beer guy and loves getting samples of brews that I make. Would put a picture up but they are just bottles, lots of bottles.
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Lots and lots of bottles...
Received 2 Inkbird ITC-1000s today for my ferm chamber project. Already have an STC-1000 for temp control, it's a Celsius version (only kind I could get 10 years ago). I decided to replace it with a unit that displays in 'Murican units, and wanted to set up two, so I can monitor two fermenters. One Inkbird would monitor and control fermenter 1, the other unit only monitoring temps in fermenter 2.
Getting a start on the front panel. Hope to complete the whole thing in the next few days after some other parts arrive (LED panel lamps and an IEC-320 power in jack).
BTW, if you buy one of these, know that the circuit diagram shown on the sticker on top of the unit is wrong. That schemo shows line and neutral switched. The same story with the schemo in the installation manual. However, the box included an insert sheet showing the correct wiring (with no mention that the other diagrams are wrong).
Getting a start on the front panel. Hope to complete the whole thing in the next few days after some other parts arrive (LED panel lamps and an IEC-320 power in jack).
BTW, if you buy one of these, know that the circuit diagram shown on the sticker on top of the unit is wrong. That schemo shows line and neutral switched. The same story with the schemo in the installation manual. However, the box included an insert sheet showing the correct wiring (with no mention that the other diagrams are wrong).
Scary stuff!
Not quite sure I understood you completely, but are you referring to the 'hot' being connected to terminal 2 instead of terminal 1? Doesn't really matter on the ITC-1000F units. It gets rectified and filtered and regulated to 24VDC internally, which is why there's no earth ground on any of the terminals. Some European standards require switching the neutral on/off instead of the 'hot' lead. If it's 240VAC, doesn't matter, both lines are hot. Breaking either interrupts the circuit, so again, doesn't really matter. I would prefer isolating both legs with a contact on 240 circuits, but some would call that redundant. The ITC-1000F is also available in 240V models, so that may be why the diagram on the unit isn't voltage specific. I used the diagram on the card too, though, to a point. Being a retired electrical engineer, I 'fixed a problem no one else knew existed with methods they don't understand'. Actually, I just used the relay to power a heating element and a fan separately, again, planning ahead for modifications.
You'll note the diagram on the unit doesn't designate any particular polarity. That's because the relay outputs can be wired with a completely different voltage source, and the units come in a variety of control voltage configurations. I used the outputs from the controller to drive external ice cube relays with more contacts so I could do more things with it later. I'm considering using 24VDC relays so that I don't have to worry about getting bitten inside the box if I have to troubleshoot, as well as just taking those outputs to a small PLC that I have to do some other things as well.
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As @RoadRoach said, it's just dry contacts for the relay. I almost never use the inkbird relay directly. If you fry it, then you have to get a new unit. If I fry an external relay, i can plug a new one in 10 seconds
Good points.
Here are the two schemos, "wrong" one from the instructions x-ed out, showing 1, 6, 8 common. On the "right" one (the insert they put in the cartons), line is common on 1, 5, 7.
But without me knowing what's going on inside the unit, I didn't want to assume anything. I'm using this for US 120VAC, though it's rated for both voltages. I like to observe polarity conventions (switching on the line side), keep things tidy.
/I was an old EE, too, before I joined the dark side and went to law school.
"Wrong" schemo
"Right" schemo
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Yep, I do too. I prefer the loads at neutral (0V) potential when off. However, these units were designed to European standards as stated, where Neutral is not used. Everything is 240V, 50Hz, so doesn't matter which side is interrupted, the load will still be at line potential when turned 'off', unless a more meticulous engineer adds a contact to both sides.
Most of my preferences are based on industry standards, not commercial or residential standards. The things I see done under residential codes make me cringe. When I had my shed inspected, the inspector kept saying "You really don't have to do that." My reply was always, "But does it meet or exceed the code?" There's no problem with exceeding the code, unless you're a builder and trying to make as much money as possible. I'm not a builder, but anyone that owns this house after me will thank me. I like isolation devices that actually isolate. Then, I worry a lot less about things biting me or going BOOM.
HERESY! HERESY I SAY!Good points.
/I was an old EE, too, before I joined the dark side and went to law school.
I'm with you on that. I'm one for over-engineering my DIY projects. I built a shed in my back yard for a woodshop about 15 years ago, with a 60A subpanel. I ran a 3-wire-plus-ground feeder from the house panel to it, using cable that could be directly buried. I still ran it through Schedule 80 pipe, just to be belt-and-suspenders. Don't want the gophers chewing on that. I even dug the trench by hand. The inspector told me I went way above what was needed and signed off right away. He said "good thing you're not an electric contractor--you'd lose money."
Fun fact: In Minnesota, a degreed EE can sit for the master electrician exam, without having to go through the apprentice and journeyman prerequisites. I know a few engineers who did it. They said the old boys proctoring the exam at the local IBEW hall were not too friendly towards them. Understandable.
Got 10 pounds of Great Western American Munich, 5 pounds of Viking Red Active and a mash conversion kit for the DigiBoil...already had the false bottom, but evidently my old heated tun built out of a junk store stainless pot has nearly the exact same diameter. combining parts from both to "upgrade" and make cleaning easier. I reserve the right to go back to 3 vessels if my efficiency tanks.
