What are you doing with homebrew today?

I’ll take it under advisement. I can definitely see that there will be significant heat loss from a spray type sparging/recirc diffuser system. I guess I’m confused about how the cooling output can be used if it doesn’t come on until maximum temperature (set point plus deadband).

I guess the question is what is most important during mashing stage. Which affects the enzymes most, maximum wort temperature, or maximum grain bed temperature? If the grain bed has more effect, then the temperature probe should definitely be in the mash, not on the RIMS tube. But that can lead to pretty significant heat bands, even with recirculating, as well as wort scorching in the tube. This is where it seems agitation becomes important to homogenize temperature, but at some point, agitation has to stop (after mash time is up?) to allow the grain bed to filter the wort. That would certainly avoid a stuck mash or dough ball. Sometimes I feel like I’m misunderstanding several things that make perfect sense, if that makes any sense.

Im hoping I learn more from all this, and preferably not that I wasted money on the RIMS. I have learned that I can’t keep using the dragon for mashing and expecting different fermentation results. It’s simply too big for the objective. I’m reasonably sure I can better avoid scorching the mash, which is the first step. Being able to better control step mashing will let me try more complex recipes.
Ok, let say you have a 148F set. Your rims heats to that point, then it shuts NO relay off. 5 degree deadband. after"heat" shuts off, then the NC contact begins power to the lower setting when it exceeds the dead band the "cold" comes on defeating all heat.

Once it is below deadband, heat will come on full again. Of course if the lower power setting maintains heat, it would never exceed the dead band.

One idea anyway
 
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Brew day today! It feels like forever since I brewed, but according to my brew log its only been 3 weeks lol
5th attempt (I think) of my house pale ale, mostly just moved some hops around and I'm going to use Chico instead of kveik. We're hoping to have a house warming party in about a month and I'm hoping this will be on tap
The 2023 Citra I have is not as citrusy as i was hoping, it's more melon/tropical. Still a good hop, but not what I'm looking for and I have 1.5 lbs to get through... :rolleyes:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1480931/house-pale-1-3

Hawkbox's House IPA has Citra as the dry hop and I can confirm it has the melon/tropical flavor you describe. It's a good hop and makes a good beer but, if you're targeting more of a pineapple/orange citrus flavor you'll have to use something else. Maybe El Dorado or Bru-1?
 
Ok, let say you have a 148F set. Your rims heats to that point, then it shuts NO relay off. 5 degree deadband. after"heat" shuts off, then the NC contact begins power to the lower setting when it exceeds the dead band the "cold" comes on defeating all heat.

Once it is below deadband, heat will come on full again. Of course if the lower power setting maintains heat, it would never exceed the dead band.

One idea anyway
Now I got the idea. Use it as a maximum temperature limit using NC contacts on the cooling relay to reverse the cooling logic. What did you use to limit the wattage? A capacitor can do the job. Just use the heat relay to short circuit the capacitor and voila, full power applied. Once the temperature reaches set point, the heat relay drops out to low power mode and if it still climbs to cooling level the cooling output turns off the heater altogether. I like it. Need to figure out what size capacitor and sketch it up for the wiring.
 
Now I got the idea. Use it as a maximum temperature limit using NC contacts on the cooling relay to reverse the cooling logic. What did you use to limit the wattage? A capacitor can do the job. Just use the heat relay to short circuit the capacitor and voila, full power applied. Once the temperature reaches set point, the heat relay drops out to low power mode and if it still climbs to cooling level the cooling output turns off the heater altogether. I like it. Need to figure out what size capacitor and sketch it up for the wiring.
I actually used a pwm supply. removed the adjustment pot and put in two of my own.The relays switches which one had control
:p

This has the advantage of both full power and low power being fully adjustable on the fly
 
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I’ll take it under advisement. I can definitely see that there will be significant heat loss from a spray type sparging/recirc diffuser system. I guess I’m confused about how the cooling output can be used if it doesn’t come on until maximum temperature (set point plus deadband).

I guess the question is what is most important during mashing stage. Which affects the enzymes most, maximum wort temperature, or maximum grain bed temperature? If the grain bed has more effect, then the temperature probe should definitely be in the mash, not on the RIMS tube. But that can lead to pretty significant heat bands, even with recirculating, as well as wort scorching in the tube. This is where it seems agitation becomes important to homogenize temperature, but at some point, agitation has to stop (after mash time is up?) to allow the grain bed to filter the wort. That would certainly avoid a stuck mash or dough ball. Sometimes I feel like I’m misunderstanding several things that make perfect sense, if that makes any sense.

Im hoping I learn more from all this, and preferably not that I wasted money on the RIMS. I have learned that I can’t keep using the dragon for mashing and expecting different fermentation results. It’s simply too big for the objective. I’m reasonably sure I can better avoid scorching the mash, which is the first step. Being able to better control step mashing will let me try more complex recipes.
Good question, let's think like engineers.

The grain starches are converted to simpler sugars by enzymes in the malted grain. Each enzyme is most active in a specific temperature band, below which it is inactive (or nearly so) and above which it gets denatured (and stops working forever).

I will speculate that the enzymes are starting in the malt, but dissolve into the water. I believe that if a piece of malt is surrounded by wort at xxx degrees, it is also at that temperature.

Overheating a volume of wort denatures the enzymes it contains. A little won't hurt, but do it enough and conversion stops from lack of enzyme. Denaturing is not instant, but it is just several seconds - or so I speculate. I may be wrong.

Considering all that, I think the 1/4 second that the RIMS tube might overheat parts of the wort is ok, but it needs to mix back down to temperature right quick. Overheating the grain is very bad.

Perhaps a relatively small (quart?) chamber after the heater to even out the temperature? And measure there? Requires continuous recirculation.
 
I actually used a pwm supply. removed the adjustment pot and put in two of my own.The relays switches which one had control
:p

This has the advantage of both full power and low power being fully adjustable on the fly
That works too. Shouldn’t take a very large one to handle a 1100W element.

Don’t have a PWM (yet) so stuck with the bang bang and stepped voltage. A variac large enough to handle a 10A load would probably be too large to fit in my little box. Maybe time for a little more shopping. Some small drives have discrete inputs for digital reference selection, so that might be useful.
 
That works too. Shouldn’t take a very large one to handle a 1100W element.

Don’t have a PWM (yet) so stuck with the bang bang and stepped voltage. A variac large enough to handle a 10A load would probably be too large to fit in my little box. Maybe time for a little more shopping. Some small drives have discrete inputs for digital reference selection, so that might be useful.
You can use these too. Cheap and effective. Might have to find one with a triac though. I think scr only conduct on 1 direction

XINGYHENG 5Pcs AC 220V 2000W SCR High Power Electronic Voltage Regulator Module Adjustable Motor Speed Controller Regulation 25A Ultra Small Dimmer with Speed Control Knob https://a.co/d/aN6ffP4
 
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That works too. Shouldn’t take a very large one to handle a 1100W element.

Don’t have a PWM (yet) so stuck with the bang bang and stepped voltage. A variac large enough to handle a 10A load would probably be too large to fit in my little box. Maybe time for a little more shopping. Some small drives have discrete inputs for digital reference selection, so that might be useful.
Maybe this would be even better. More reliable and less guesswork

6PCS DC Motor PWM Speed Controller 3V 6V 12V 24V 35V 5A 90W with Speed Control Switch Mini LED Dimmer https://a.co/d/dy4ZfO0

SSR-25DA Solid State Relay DC to AC (Input 3-32V DC Output 24-380V AC) with Heat Sink, 25A https://a.co/d/2RQ5gn9
 
I've built plenty of systems before this last, one was a 15 gallon brew in a basket with a pid and a single dial both in as small box, worked very well but I had to have a rachet hoist to lift the 10 gallon basket
WP_20170713_12_25_18_Pro.jpg
 
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Not a lot to do which is a blessing as my back is playing up - thought it was virtually healed 2 or 3 days in, core strengthening working and got a little too confident for my own good - now it is worse. Just took SG of my Oktoberfest Lager batch - 1.011 (from OG of 1.055) at day 6 - just when I want one to go slowly... . Anyway I had a taste and it has this lovely delicate floral effect with feint hint of banana on top I am assuming from the M54 Cali yeast. Picked up my spirits a bit after that.
 
I have a batch in the fermenter ready to keg. But I may have gotten ahead of myself when I brewed right away on top of the last brews yeast/ Trub. One keg is full and I didn't drink the other one empty yet. I have a small keg ,2.5 gallon job, I could transfer it into so I can use the large keg, or bottles. I think the keg would work better but I would have to park a small co2 bottle and reg in the fermentation fridge and use a picnic tap.
Too much beer? Is this a bad thing?
Not too much. Options are nice. Go for it!
 
I'm going a little off script this weekend. I like to brew a Munich Helles about this time of year, and I typically use about about 95% pilsner malt and about 5% Vienna, but I've decided to go a little crazy and replace my Vienna with Viking cookie malt https://boomchugalug.com/products/viking-cookie-malt. It's the greatest name ever, but the "cookie" part of it is more in the European sense, meaning more like biscuit, and that's what it's like - toasty biscuity. In the past I've been masochistic by doing a double or triple decoction, but I'm going to skip the decoction and see what kind of bread crust character I can get out of that cookie malt. I don't care if the beer wins any authenticity contests, because it will still taste good, which is all that I really care about.
 
I'm going a little off script this weekend. I like to brew a Munich Helles about this time of year, and I typically use about about 95% pilsner malt and about 5% Vienna, but I've decided to go a little crazy and replace my Vienna with Viking cookie malt https://boomchugalug.com/products/viking-cookie-malt. It's the greatest name ever, but the "cookie" part of it is more in the European sense, meaning more like biscuit, and that's what it's like - toasty biscuity. In the past I've been masochistic by doing a double or triple decoction, but I'm going to skip the decoction and see what kind of bread crust character I can get out of that cookie malt. I don't care if the beer wins any authenticity contests, because it will still taste good, which is all that I really care about.
I’m also brewing a Helles this weekend. 100% pils with enough acid malt for ph. Single decoction. Perle, tradition and hersbrucker. About 24 ibu.
 
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I’m also brewing a Helles this weekend. 100% pils with enough acid malt for ph. Single decoction. Perle, tradition and hersbrucker. About 24 ibu.
You might need help making sure it doesn’t keep your kegs occupied too long. Got any volunteers yet?
 

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