Hey don't you have these over the side heat sticks in America.
This might be worth while.
If not Ultra Low Density you'll wanna run it via a Power Whatt Meter to cool it down to prevent scorching.
See I find as soon as you introduce an element in the mash you'll probably want to recirculate it to even temperature and also to move wort past the element.
Then there's where do you put the temp probe down near the element or at the return to the kettle...
I've got mine mounted down the bottom off a little way from the element prevents the wort down there heating up above saccrification point I'll insert a spare stc1000 probe in the centre of the mash and use this to monitor real time mash temp but have the element cycling on and off via the bottom temp sensor.
Anyhow just my 2c
Hopefully in a 'righter' thread.
I'm trying to avoid heating elements that come in direct contact with the wort for the very reasons you state, uneven heating and scorching risks. Not saying I won't consider them, just that I'd prefer some metal between the wort and the heat source that prevents sudden changes and flashing the wort around the element. The right immersion heater construction might change my mind.
I'm good to go with recirculation now and actually dunno why I didn't do that upgrade a lot sooner. It sure made a hell of a difference in the wort quality going into the boil, and actually improved the heat control on the mash to some degree. Just not enough control to prevent swings that I'm sure are affecting wort quality. I'm a staunch proponent of the GIGO principles. (Garbage IN, Garbage OUT). Improving the IN will improve the OUT. Since I started circulating, I haven't used any flocculant additives. Getting some pretty nice looking beer without it.
I could add a bung and thermowell to the kettle near the bottom, but not sure I want it permanently in the way. I still have the immersion chiller to contend with and have to avoid the torpedo screen too. That screams immersion heater installation, too, but like I said, I don't think I want the heating element in direct contact with the wort. Something else that's gonna have to be scrubbed on a regular basis to get carmelized sugar off it. Our hard water isn't very kind to heating elements, either. Every 5 years I pull about 20 pounds of lime/calcium out of our hot water heater (cistern to you Ben) when I'm typically replacing the bottom element because it's overheated and broken due to calcium buildup on it. That's calcium that's going to get solidified in the wort. It should precipitate, but it doesn't seem to occur if the elements don't touch the water. Don't read about osteoporosis much around here.
Another issue that going electric will get rid of is the heat that just goes around the kettle, and makes the handles stupid hot,or burns anything remotely flammable within 3 inches of the pot (wasted heat), as well as CO/CO2 risks of brewing inside. Plan B for mash temperature monitoring would be to replace the thermometer on the kettle with a thermowell to insert the temp probe for an ITC. If I continue using the dragon, I'd have to wrap the wires with something heat resistant, though. I couldn't let it stick out very far, though (immersion chiller), so not sure I'd win anything with that. Maybe just a thermowell stuck through the lid of the kettle that I can adjust the depth on it, and drop the ITC probe in that. That wouldn't interfere with the immersion chiller. The probes are supposed to be 'waterproof' but Im not sure how well they'd hold up in boiling temperatures without some protection. It's just smarter to put 'em in a well. I could probably put a sparge shower ring on the lid too with QD fittings on it. As long as I'm using the dragon, I've got melting wires to contend with.
I typically run mid to low density mashes (1.3 - 1.5 quarts/pound of grain) because of scorching risks as well as it makes it a lot less likely that I have a stuck sparge or paste ball in the middle of the mash, mostly because I stir frequently during the first 30 minutes of mashing. Going electric will probably let me increase density a little, but I don't have much problem with boiling to reduce. I'm usually watching a ball game or something during the boil.
Still learning and appreciate all the advice. Truly.