Two questions regarding an all electric biab system

[Mark Farrall]

Thunderwagn's comment reminded me of the two things that have caused problems. Temp control and the density of the element.

I've got an ultra low watt density (ULWD) element on it's way from the US as I'm on a saison/mixed ferment kick at the moment. That means wort with a lot of raw wheat/spelt/whatever. The short thick element I bought originally was creating burnt wort that stuck to the element and causing me to dump the batch half way through the boil. I don't have problems with single infusion mashes and basically barley worts, but I do with step mashes and high protein adjuncts. So if you're buying electic look for the ULWD element.

The other one is the smarts of the controller. I'm using a basic temp controller that cuts out at a programmed temperature with a temp probe dangling down the side of the kettle into the wort. That gives me a few problems. I have a lag between the wort hittting the temp and the probe sending that temp to the controller. And the element is on 100% until it reaches that temp. After a few stuffed up mashes I now know how to defend against overshooting my mash temp.

Most of the all in one systems have a smarter controller that knows to decrease the power as it gets closer to the target temp. It makes overshooting less likely. Also they've hopefully spent time working out how their temp probe represents the temp in the whole of the kettle. So they may translate your 154F mash temp to a few degrees hotter or colder depending on where they place the temp probe.

Edit: and if you're doing the DIY approach, adding a pump and recirculation helps with the temp control. You get a more even temp in the kettle so your probe isn't showing you a hot or a cold spot.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Amen brother I've been burnt twice! Amen on the pump to recirculate wort. As you know in use a power what meter now on both the KK element and standard kettle element and run both on lower power.

See that mightnt be an issue on the 110v too I assume?

@Mark Farrall let us know how that element goes too. Did you see the outfit in west Aus doing low whatt elements tri clover style ones?

 

[Mark Farrall]

Amen brother I've been burnt twice! Amen on the pump to recirculate wort. As you know in use a power what meter now on both the KK element and standard kettle element and run both on lower power.

See that mightnt be an issue on the 110v too I assume?

@Mark Farrall let us know how that element goes too. Did you see the outfit in west Aus doing low whatt elements tri clover style ones?

Yep, saw them. I got an enclosure from them and an element from the electric brewery. I'll let you know how the first hipster saison/farmhouse nonsense brew goes when it's done. Planning to try that out first batch.

 

[Meatwad]

I brew on an all-in-one BIAB system built by High Gravity (https://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Wort-Hog-5-10-Gallon-BIAB-240V-445p3987.htm).

It's a 64 qt kettle with a 240V Blichmann Boil Coil (previously 120V) and Riptide pump for recirculating during the mash and whirlpooling after the boil. I see 80% efficiency consistently up to about 1.080 OG (drops to 75%) and anything above 1.100 is 65% efficiency but that's just the nature of the high gravity beast.

Electric brewing is CHEAP compared to propane and it offers consistency when it comes to temperature and final product. I'll never go back to propane after using this system for 1.5 years. If I had to do it again I'd start with a 220V circuit instead of 110. Since upgrading my circuit and BoilCoil I've seen a 30 minute decrease in my brew days just because of faster heating times.

 

[beer1965]

Thanks boys. All helpful and I'm sold on going to electric and an all in one system. Have been using my gas stove (it's winter up here and my garage has no heat) and that's been a total pain - especially when I had a spill over!. I think I'll got to 240v too.

 

[beer1965]

To properly describe the difference between 110 and 220, 220 is far more efficient. Think of voltage as pressure, and amperage as flow. Now, simultaneously wash a car with low pressure water, and wash another with high pressure water. The high pressure wash will get done quicker, and use far less water than the low pressure wash.
To illustrate, I have a 220V 4500W heater in my double car garage, heats it up nicely, and does not have much of an impact on my electric bill. Keeping garage at 40F, and using it to keep the garage at 60F a couple times a week for several hours, adds about $30 to my bill. Conversely, running a 110V 1200W heater can't keep up with heat loss, and would never warm up my garage, and uses vastly more electricity.

This was very helpful - thanks!

 

[thunderwagn]

Thanks boys. All helpful and I'm sold on going to electric and an all in one system. Have been using my gas stove (it's winter up here and my garage has no heat) and that's been a total pain - especially when I had a spill over!. I think I'll got to 240v too.

It's nice to have for sure.

 

[Craigerrr]

This was very helpful - thanks!

YW

 

[38P6]

I bought the claw hammer 120 volt system a few months ago. I've only done two Brews on it so far and I'm in love with it. Much easier to use than my old 3 vessel system with 3 burners. I did two and a half wraps of reflectix material around the kettle and I have no problems at all getting to a boil. I was going to do the 240 system but honestly the 120 is so much nicer to be able to brew wherever you want and plug-in wherever you want. It just takes a little longer to get to boil .....the insulation made a huge difference.

 

[beer1965]

I bought the claw hammer 120 volt system a few months ago. I've only done two Brews on it so far and I'm in love with it. Much easier to use than my old 3 vessel system with 3 burners. I did two and a half wraps of reflectix material around the kettle and I have no problems at all getting to a boil. I was going to do the 240 system but honestly the 120 is so much nicer to be able to brew wherever you want and plug-in wherever you want. It just takes a little longer to get to boil .....the insulation made a huge difference.

Thanks. I like that system too. Question: how long does it take to get up to mash temp? and how long does it take to get from mash temp to full boil for you? THanks

 

[38P6]

Thanks. I like that system too. Question: how long does it take to get up to mash temp? and how long does it take to get from mash temp to full boil for you? THanks

I have read never really paid attention to the time but I think it is 30 minutes or less. Adding several layers of insulation helps a ton.

 

[thunderwagn]

http://brulosophy.com/2019/08/15/clawhammer-supply-120v-electric-home-brewing-system-product-review/

 

[beer1965]

http://brulosophy.com/2019/08/15/clawhammer-supply-120v-electric-home-brewing-system-product-review/

Excellent! Thanks TW!

 

[Craigerrr]

I have watched several of their brewing videos, it truly does look like an easy setup to operate.

 

[beer1965]

I have watched several of their brewing videos, it truly does look like an easy setup to operate.

Will let you know. I just got one.

 

[AGbrewer]

Will let you know. I just got one.

So how is the clawhammer working out for you? I'm thinking about getting one to replace my Brewers Edge Mash & Boil.

 

[naDinMN]

Two questions:

- how many of you use a system like this all in one and does your efficiency suffer because you're not sparging the same way you would in a cooler mash tun that you then send into a brew kettle with a hose?

- how many of you use electric versus propane or gas stoves and is there any real difference other than the relative cost of each energy/heat source?

As always, thanks![/QUOTE]

I have the 10.5g Anvil and I couldn't speak more highly of it.

Pro:
No need for BIAB crush.
I run an average 83% mash efficiency WITHOUT sparging.
You can hold mash temp for kettle sours
Pump is separate from kettle*
Electric is less expensive than propane, and you don't run out of it mid-boil
Easy to use and can be used indoors
Up-gradable to 240 volt

Cons:
Build quality seems "cheap" at first glance, but isn't.
Slow heating time compared to propane (So what though. I stream one more 30 minute show or do some laundry)

*Some people may see the separate pump as a con, but what do you do with your Brewer's Edge when internal pump breaks? At least I'm left with a pump when if my Anvil breaks and a pump is easy to replace if it sh*ts the bed. It reminds me of the TV/DVD combos. If the screen breaks you have to replace both components.

 

[Craigerrr]

Currently 11 brews in on my Brewzilla, getting very comfortable with it, but still not getting the efficiency that I think I should.

Pros

• No more effing around with propane.
• Ability to set up a timer to have strike water at temp for the morning, or after work.
• Ease of controlling mash
• Easy to clean
• Doesn't take up much space
• Not particularly heavy

Cons

• I have the 110V version, so slow to boil, and not a very lively boil, the 220V is not available in Canuckland
• With my efficiency at roughly 68%, volumes are tight, mash can be a bit thick
• In my opinion there is too much dead space, albeit recoverable
• Controller is at the bottom
• Display is set back quite a ways, difficult to read the top row unless it it eye level

All in all I am happy, no regrets at all. Which isn't to say that I wouldn't upgrade if the next version wipes all of my conns out.

 

[naDinMN]

Currently 11 brews in on my Brewzilla, getting very comfortable with it, but still not getting the efficiency that I think I should.

Pros

• No more effing around with propane.
• Ability to set up a timer to have strike water at temp for the morning, or after work.
• Ease of controlling mash
• Easy to clean
• Doesn't take up much space
• Not particularly heavy

Cons

• I have the 110V version, so slow to boil, and not a very lively boil, the 220V is not available in Canuckland
• With my efficiency at roughly 68%, volumes are tight, mash can be a bit thick
• In my opinion there is too much dead space, albeit recoverable
• Controller is at the bottom
• Display is set back quite a ways, difficult to read the top row unless it it eye level

All in all I am happy, no regrets at all. Which isn't to say that I wouldn't upgrade if the next version wipes all of my conns out.

I was getting similar with my first few brews. What I've done to correct it is easy.

1. A solid 5 minute stir at mash in. I start the timer only after all grain is wet.
2. 5 minute rest before starting the pump.
3. Stir the top 1/3 of the mash every 15-20 minutes. Not much needed here, just enough to prevent channeling.
4.At 45 minutes, I start to check my sugar content with a hydrometer.

If I haven't hit my Gravity...
5. Test again at 60 minutes .

If I still haven't hit gravity...
6. Another 5 minute stir and rest.
7. 15 minutes with pump running.
8. Short stir of top 1/3 and a test.

Never had to go past 75 minutes, but obviously repeat 7 and 8nas needed.

Serious question here. Don't want to highjack the thread but, why does everyone think a mash is 60 minutes? If you get your sugar needed in 30 minutes, you're done. If you hit your target gravity in 90 minutes, your done then. 60 minutes is a benchmark or average. It isn't a number written in stone as they say.

Just my 2¢

 

[Hawkbox]

I think it's 60 because that's as long as I'm interested in waiting. Could I get higher? Yeah, and if I have something else to do I will mash longer. I used to do 2-3 hour mashes when I went for lunch with friends in the before times. I just do my math to hit my numbers in 60 minutes and call it good.