Thermometer

I use my internal gages not bragging but I am lol . I have 4 of these one in each pot and one portable
Specifications:
Accuracy Class A. +/-0.15 ºC at 0.0 ºC
Alpha 0.00385
Maximum temperature 300 ºC

PT100-L10012NPT.jpg
 
Electrical controls are on my list now that I finished the plumbing. Could probably pull the dial thermometers and insert these? This hooks up to the simple digital controllers?
 
this looks complicate but really its not, the temp probes are connected to the pid which controls the electric element. you set a temp and the element stays on until it reaches that temp and pulses at that temp for as long as you set it


Control Panel.jpg
Inside.jpg



I have a new box and set up but haven't taken any pictures yet
 
Last edited:
I currently use a Mashmate 1600 control box for one heater/mashtun. It was built by a defunct company in the 90's I think. Bigger mashes don't lose much heat so have been just recirculating to clear the wort the last 15min or so. Pretty sure I won't get that extravagant in controls. But you never know.
 
I recirculate the whole mash, and sometimes mash for as long as 120 minutes depending on the grain used, its clear as a commercial beer when done mashing
 
I have a new system, its a herms and a new process, I fill my HLT to 18 gallons of water, heat to 165, add my grain to the mash tun then use the pump to fill the mash tun from the HLT under the grain bed until its 3 inches above the grain, that will change the temp of the grain to 152, then I add 2 gallons of cold water to the HLT to cool it down to 152, then I recirculate through the coils in the HLT and it evens out at roughly 152ish, I can adjust from there
 
Sounds interesting and simple. Not sure I follow you completely though. You don't stir grain while mashing in or when mashed in circulate with all the water?
 
oh yes I stir several times, once when I mash in, once after 15 minutes, once near the end of the mash and almost ready to sparge
 
Dam you!!! By doing it that way it solves the problem of needing the xtra kettle to hold sparge water HOWEVER my lower manifold is not separated out between the 2 batches. Now I will need to redesign the plumbing!!! I have been trying to figure a way around the 5th kettle and this is the answer. I can brew 20gal of the same beer this way but not separate beers.
IMAG0195.jpg

Note the single pipe across the bottom.
 
Addiction or obsession? I apologize for off topic. My bad.
 
Your 1 up! Black IPA and a Trappist Dubbel. Well... I like a little Omara's in my coffee:D
 
yes its ok, the issue is reflections, its great for dull surfaces but water not, so murky wart is fine but it can be erratic at times, most of them start off at C and even if you switch it back, when it power off it goes back to C
 
nothing wrong with it, its just a knowledge and memory issue, I think its a better system my self, I just don't remember enough to be accurate with it. its like turning fractions to decimals for a calculator, for year I had to use a cheat sheet, then I finally got it lol
 
Mark D Pirate said:
Whats wrong with C ? Think you guys are the only ones still using such an outdated system
Click to expand...
In the 70s, there was a huge push to convert in the States. Lasted about a month!!! Apparently we give up easy.
 
In a country your size it wouldn't be a cheap exercise to convert overnight , once you did it though you'd never look back !
Linear conversion of units by just moving a decimal point and no more lost martian probes !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Copyright © 2007-2025 Brewer's Friend, Inc. - Send Feedback - Terms - RSS Feed - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information

Back
Top