Squeeze or drain naturally?

What do you mean there is "no oxygen"? Of course there is. First, gasses mix readily and there is this wide-spread myth of a "c02 blanket". Once fermentation slows, and less c02 is produced, there is absolutely NO "co2 blanket". Plus, you opened the fermenter to put the dryhops in there. So it absolutely allowed oxygen/air ingress. Also, keep in mind that even airlocks allow oxygen ingress once fermentation slows.

So fermentation has slowed or stopped, and the fermenter is opened and something is added along with plenty of room air. That air doesn't disappear- and then the fermenter is shaken. If it was my beer, I'd be more cautious about oxidation especially with hoppy beers that more readily show oxidation effects.
Thank you for the feedback. I understand what you are saying.
 
Amen to that. If you don't have the capability to do closed transfers, avoid splashing and aggressive agitation. More motion means more of your beer will be exposed to O2.
 
Keep in mind that you will not get an instant inrush of air if you remove the airlock from a carboy. You'll let some in and that some will mix with the carbon dioxide (which wasn't pure in the first place). Don't open the carboy unless you have to, keep the airlock full, don't splash, slosh or stir your fermented beer and you should be fine. There is the gold standard, as Bob mentions, then there's the "good enough."
 
Thank you for the reply. Trialben cited a brewer that is recyling in the fermenter to recirculate hops, so I am curious about this. I add the dry hops just after peak krausen so there is still plenty of yeast activity still going on. Additionally I only use a blow off tube and don't switch to an airlock. I do believe I am introducing more oxygen on bottling day than I am by doing this. I do understand what you are saying though.
 
Thank you for the reply. Trialben cited a brewer that is recyling in the fermenter to recirculate hops, so I am curious about this. I add the dry hops just after peak krausen so there is still plenty of yeast activity still going on. Additionally I only use a blow off tube and don't switch to an airlock. I do believe I am introducing more oxygen on bottling day than I am by doing this. I do understand what you are saying though.
Mate do what you can with the equipment you've got. Hops period have diminishing point of return (just my opinion). This is why brewers go to extrodianry lengths to try and capture their fragile flavour and aroma and keep it in their beer as long as possible.

One last trick that you can use is Sodium Metabisulphate or potassium meta ;) This has a anti oxidant effect in the final beer so I'd add it I'm talking a quarter if that of a tablet under a gram to your bottling bucket.

Other product is ascorbic acid I've not delved into this yet but the guys on (Genius Brewing) use it in all their beers for stability.
Check em out on the tube dude I've lernt tuns from the knowledgeable brewers.

Hey and they use the BF platform too sadly I don't see em on the forum ;).
 
Thank you for the reply. Trialben cited a brewer that is recyling in the fermenter to recirculate hops, so I am curious about this. I add the dry hops just after peak krausen so there is still plenty of yeast activity still going on. Additionally I only use a blow off tube and don't switch to an airlock. I do believe I am introducing more oxygen on bottling day than I am by doing this. I do understand what you are saying though.
Someone always has a better system or a better way of doing things. I'd agree: I always found the number one cause of oxidation was bottling. I'd put a delicious beer in the bottle and a month later, it was meh. The recycling system requires a pump, not a big deal but it has to be sanitary, as do the lines, and you're pumping through a closed system: If there's no O2 in the headspace, you can't get any into the beer. Best research I can find, and I'm not much of a dry hop guy, is to put them in during active fermentation. Lowest potential for oxygen uptake since the yeast will scavenge and use it, plus some nifty biotransformations (binding of hop oils to glycosides, if memory serves) that yield a better, smoother, more permanent flavor. When I dry hop, it's the process I use and in general, I get decent beers out of it.
 
Yeah I usually just toss my hops in either with the yeast or a day afterward. Works well enough for my needs.
 
Back to the original questions. I don't squeeze the hop sock I use to dry hop. I don't want any of the old yeast and trub to be squeezed out into the final product.
 
I don't squeeze anything (brewing related).
 

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