Q1 2021 Community Recipe by HighVoltageMan!

Mark Farrall said:
@HighVoltageMan! Would you prefer us to copy the recipe, rather than having a bunch of snapshots hanging off your original recipe?

Edit: just tried the snapshot. I can't see the recipe in my folders, so I think it's in yours. I'll just copy it and hopefully be able to delete it from yours.

Edit 2: sorry can't delete it. I've copied it, so feel free to delete it from your folders. It'll be the smaller BIAB version.

@Sunfire96 can you add a note next to the recipe link at the top asking people to copy the recipe and not create a snapshot? Then I can be the only idiot polluting HighVoltageMan's recipe folders.
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I guess I don’t really care if it’s copied and even modified. I assumed that would happen anyway.
 
Mark Farrall said:
@HighVoltageMan! Would you prefer us to copy the recipe, rather than having a bunch of snapshots hanging off your original recipe?

Edit: just tried the snapshot. I can't see the recipe in my folders, so I think it's in yours. I'll just copy it and hopefully be able to delete it from yours.

Edit 2: sorry can't delete it. I've copied it, so feel free to delete it from your folders. It'll be the smaller BIAB version.

@Sunfire96 can you add a note next to the recipe link at the top asking people to copy the recipe and not create a snapshot? Then I can be the only idiot polluting HighVoltageMan's recipe folders.
Click to expand...
Here's a copied and scaled to my brew house efficiency a bit lower than Highvoltagemans lofty 85%:).
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1101466/q1-highvoltagemans-pa
I just put an order in got the Marris otter and some light Munich I've got caramunich 2 So that'll be used instead just a tad up on lovibond.
Got 200g mosaic 300g Centennial they didn't have citra might try local for DH addition.

Yes interesting weight going into WP I'm sticking as is with Highvoltagemans instructions here will be interesting to see the percieved flavour impact of going big in the WP as opposed to the more conventional DH addition:rolleyes:.

Oh and I got some of that lallamand Verdant IPA yeast looking forward to trying this!
 
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Craigerrr said:
I don't feel that it is crucial to be at a specific temperature, or necessarily to hold said temperature for the whole 20 minutes. If you top up in fermenter, you could use a small amount of that water to drop the temp a bit before adding the hops. You should work out your stirring arms prior rebrew day!
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Last batch I started at around 80c but finished half hour later was at 70c I could hold it at 80 but I feel the same that it wouldn't make a huge difference.

I think agitation of the hops is more important.
 
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HighVoltageMan! said:
I know most people don't use this amount of hops, it is a $h!+ load for sure and can be expensive to brew, but it's a fantastic beer, especially 3-4 weeks from brew date. The hops blend together and the beer comes alive.
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Too many hops????


upload_2021-1-11_12-32-35.png
 
AHarper said:
Too many hops????
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Is there such a thing?

Questions:
1. What is a reasonable mash target pH? Is a calculated 5.60 too high?
2. Scaled recipe wants 155B yeasties, any harm from using 2 packs of S 04? I prefer to avoid a starter, and yeast is inexpensive.Or is it generally agreed that one pack will definitely be plenty?
 
Donoroto said:
Is there such a thing?

Questions:
1. What is a reasonable mash target pH? Is a calculated 5.60 too high?
2. Scaled recipe wants 155B yeasties, any harm from using 2 packs of S 04? I prefer to avoid a starter, and yeast is inexpensive.Or is it generally agreed that one pack will definitely be plenty?
Click to expand...
Mash pH can be 5.4-5.6, if you use RO water and 6 grams or so of calcium sulfate and calcium chloride total, you should hit @ 5.5-5.6 pH at room temperature. When I get done sparging, I check the pre-boil pH and I adjust it with acid to 5.0-5.1. Pitch pH is usually @ 5.1.

If you use lactic acid to adjust the pre-boil, it stays pretty much the same or lowers slightly. If you adjust with phosphoric acid pre-boil, the pH raises @.1 during the boil for reasons I can't explain. A lower pH on boil will keep the wort from getting dark without any drop in malt flavor.

When I make a 7.5 gallon batch, I will under pitch S04 and only use one pack. The yeast tolerate the under pitch very well and it keeps the krausen from getting too high and coming out the fermenter. If you use WLP007, I pitch fairly hard, @ 300 billion cells or more. 007 behaves well and doesn't puke out the fermenter, even with a hard pitch.
 
Mark Farrall said:
@HighVoltageMan! Would you prefer us to copy the recipe, rather than having a bunch of snapshots hanging off your original recipe?

Edit: just tried the snapshot. I can't see the recipe in my folders, so I think it's in yours. I'll just copy it and hopefully be able to delete it from yours.

Edit 2: sorry can't delete it. I've copied it, so feel free to delete it from your folders. It'll be the smaller BIAB version.

@Sunfire96 can you add a note next to the recipe link at the top asking people to copy the recipe and not create a snapshot? Then I can be the only idiot polluting HighVoltageMan's recipe folders.
Click to expand...
Done. Do you want me to include anything else?
 
Here's my 1.5 gal BIAB batch sparge iteration:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1101716/wayner-s-pale-ale

I decided on Simcoe and Centennial; hoping for some nice citrus :)

For those of us who can't recirculate during the whirlpool to maintain temps...is it best to chill to 170, add hops, then let sit for 20 minutes knowing that not as many alpha acids will isomerize because the wort is chilling (lower IBU), or should I throw them in around 175 to try to compensate for lost heat? Edited to add: I would like to keep this one around the predicted 50-55 IBU's
 
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Donoroto said:
Is there such a thing?

Questions:
1. What is a reasonable mash target pH? Is a calculated 5.60 too high?
2. Scaled recipe wants 155B yeasties, any harm from using 2 packs of S 04? I prefer to avoid a starter, and yeast is inexpensive.Or is it generally agreed that one pack will definitely be plenty?
Click to expand...

No I was referring to HVM's last phrase saying his beer came alive.. I wasn't questioning the amount - wouldn't dare - I like hops.
 
Sunfire96 said:
Here's my 1.5 gal BIAB batch sparge iteration:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/1101716/wayner-s-pale-ale

I decided on Simcoe and Centennial; hoping for some nice citrus :)

For those of us who can't recirculate during the whirlpool to maintain temps...is it best to chill to 170, add hops, then let sit for 20 minutes knowing that not as many alpha acids will isomerize because the wort is chilling (lower IBU), or should I throw them in around 175 to try to compensate for lost heat?
Click to expand...
I don't recirculate my whirlpool. I target 170F but often it's 160-165F. I stir it occasionally during the whirlpool and the temp drops @ 5 degrees in 20 minutes, as long as it's stays above 145F for sanitary reasons, it's fine. I don't think the temperature is a big deal as long as it's between 170F and 145F.

The aroma changes during those 20 minutes, toward the end it's like heaven. I then cool the wort to pitch temperature and I strain out as much of the hops as I can with a standard kitchen strainer.
 
HighVoltageMan! said:
I don't recirculate my whirlpool. I target 170F but often it's 160-165F. I stir it occasionally during the whirlpool and the temp drops @ 5 degrees in 20 minutes, as long as it's stays above 145F for sanitary reasons, it's fine. I don't think the temperature is a big deal as long as it's between 170F and 145F.

The aroma changes during those 20 minutes, toward the end it's like heaven. I then cool the wort to pitch temperature and I strain out as much of the hops as I can with a standard kitchen strainer.
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Awesome, thank you :) I think whirlpooling is one of those things that's easy to obsess over because the calculations can be precise, but in reality, unless the beer is tested I have no way of knowing the IBU's besides my taste buds.
 
Sunfire96 said:
I have no way of knowing the IBU's besides my taste buds.
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Exactly. You're not brewing for a machine, your brewing for your own and other people's taste. The whirlpool can vary, but the results seem to stay consistent.
 
When this thread started I got ahead of the system because I have a dry keg and started a K-97 Kolsch. That one is doing quite well, dropped from 1.043 to 1.009 in three days.
Now there is a beer that everyone has agreed on I may have to start another, I may try to follow Wayner's Pale Ale 1.5 gallon batch. May have to get the order in soon , with everyone ordering this much Hops , there may be a world wide shortage...
That and I am not too sure what to use for equipment for a small size batch...
 
Stove top BIAB if you've got a largish kettle? I'm thinking of dusting off my old kettle to do some smaller batches for experiments or beers I won't drink too much of (like the Belgian abbey beers).
 
west1m said:
When this thread started I got ahead of the system because I have a dry keg and started a K-97 Kolsch. That one is doing quite well, dropped from 1.043 to 1.009 in three days.
Now there is a beer that everyone has agreed on I may have to start another, I may try to follow Wayner's Pale Ale 1.5 gallon batch. May have to get the order in soon , with everyone ordering this much Hops , there may be a world wide shortage...
That and I am not too sure what to use for equipment for a small size batch...
Click to expand...
Let me know what you think of the Kolsch mate I'm still in two minds to brew it again. I see lallamand has a koln yeast out cool!
 
west1m said:
When this thread started I got ahead of the system because I have a dry keg and started a K-97 Kolsch. That one is doing quite well, dropped from 1.043 to 1.009 in three days.
Now there is a beer that everyone has agreed on I may have to start another, I may try to follow Wayner's Pale Ale 1.5 gallon batch. May have to get the order in soon , with everyone ordering this much Hops , there may be a world wide shortage...
That and I am not too sure what to use for equipment for a small size batch...
Click to expand...
BTW. K97 Kolsch works really well for a pale ale. I won a gold a few years back with it. The biggest problem is the volcano it can produce in the fermenter. The yeast produces fruity esters and acid that work really well with this recipe.
 
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