Pilsner issues

[J A]

That's a great hop combination. I'm a big fan of the Tettnanger, especially for my Kolsch.
Things should be settled down by now. Different yeasts can make a huge difference in the flavor of the beer. Unless you're tasting something that makes the beer less palatable, my guess is that the Pilsner yeast produces a pretty different flavor than the Bavarian yeast that you're used to. That might account for some of what you're experiencing. Good Pilsners to me tend to be sharp-flavored and crisp and really show off the hop flavor. Other lagers tend to be a little smoother with a maltier profile. You might try brewing the same thing again with a slightly different temperature profile (slightly higher for primary fermentation) and see if you get different results.
Good luck!!

 

[Tokki]

Agree. I've used Saaz and Tett for all my pilsners. I wondered if the pilsner yeast might be a different experience than all my previous batches. I still have it lagering and plan to bottle it. Thanks for your input. It's great having this help!

 

[heady]

I don't believe it's diacetyl (not buttery or butterscotch) at all. For all the other pilsners I brewed, I'd pitch then place at 45 degrees for the first two weeks, bring to ~65 degrees for 24-48 hours, rack, then ferm at 35 degrees for ~6-7 weeks. I had preciously used a Bavarian lager yeast (WyEast 2206 smackpac), but decided this time to do a solid Pilsen grain bill with the Pilsen yeast (Wyeast 2007). The yeast prior to pitching was not as vigorous as the Bavarian, so that's why I left it out at 65 degrees before lagering at 45. In hindsight, I should have just started the lagering process and repitched another Pilsen if activity didn't start. I'd like to provide more of an explanation of the taste, but it's something I haven't experienced before. I think you may be on to something with the sulfur. I pulled 5 bottles off and retunred the carboy to 35 degrees hoping I could ferm my way out of this. Always hopeful!

Hi , I'm new here. I have brewed many AG pilsners but have not used that particular yeast. The sulfur smell is definitely a bi-product of pilsner fermentation and will disappear as fermentation completes. It can get really bad and make you wonder as it's fermenting. .066 is pretty big for a pilsner, never done one that big, but .017 is not finished. Mine generally finish @ .009. I've used wyeast 2001, 2124, and safale 34/70. All with good results. I prefer the 2124, it makes a great german pils, tettnang/hallertau/perle, throws a lot of sulfur when fermenting though. But cleans up amazingly. The dry safale 34/70 is supposedly the same yeast as 2124 and does produce a very similar beer, but the 2124 is just a bit better imo. I've done the wyeast batches with and without starters, never had a problem either way. The safale I've just rehydrated with no problems. I've wondered to myself If I were to reuse the safale yeast a time or two if it would become more like the 2124 from wyeast. Iiwy, I would hold the beer @ 50 until the gravity comes down to at least .011 then rack to keg or secondary and lager @ 40 or less for at least 3-4 weeks. Or I would take it out and do a D rest for a couple days and let it finish that way. You are past the diacetal production stage I think, which happens early on.

 

[heady]

Actually I'm brewing a 16.5 gallon batch of German Pilsner right now lol. It's why this thread caught my eye. It general takes 3 weeks for mine to complete fermentation, or at least clean up, I generally leave them for 4 weeks with a rest near the 2.5-3 weeks before racking to kegs and lagering. With a starter fementaion starts a couple days sooner. My favorite go to pilsner is bitter w/ magnum for ~15.5 ibu @ 60 to go, Tett and hallertau @ 15 for ~8.5 IBU ea, Hallertau and perle @ 5 or less mins @ half as much hops by weight as previous addition, then whirlpool with the same amount of hallertau as the last addition. I shoot for around 35-38 ibu's and 5%abv. Good luck with your pilsner, I bet it will come out fine.

 

[Tokki]

great

Hi , I'm new here. I have brewed many AG pilsners but have not used that particular yeast. The sulfur smell is definitely a bi-product of pilsner fermentation and will disappear as fermentation completes. It can get really bad and make you wonder as it's fermenting. .066 is pretty big for a pilsner, never done one that big, but .017 is not finished. Mine generally finish @ .009. I've used wyeast 2001, 2124, and safale 34/70. All with good results. I prefer the 2124, it makes a great german pils, tettnang/hallertau/perle, throws a lot of sulfur when fermenting though. But cleans up amazingly. The dry safale 34/70 is supposedly the same yeast as 2124 and does produce a very similar beer, but the 2124 is just a bit better imo. I've done the wyeast batches with and without starters, never had a problem either way. The safale I've just rehydrated with no problems. I've wondered to myself If I were to reuse the safale yeast a time or two if it would become more like the 2124 from wyeast. Iiwy, I would hold the beer @ 50 until the gravity comes down to at least .011 then rack to keg or secondary and lager @ 40 or less for at least 3-4 weeks. Or I would take it out and do a D rest for a couple days and let it finish that way. You are past the diacetal production stage I think, which happens early on.

Great input, thanks! Definitely changes to my brew strategy for the next round. I'll let you know what happens.

 

[Tokki]

Actually I'm brewing a 16.5 gallon batch of German Pilsner right now lol. It's why this thread caught my eye. It general takes 3 weeks for mine to complete fermentation, or at least clean up, I generally leave them for 4 weeks with a rest near the 2.5-3 weeks before racking to kegs and lagering. With a starter fementaion starts a couple days sooner. My favorite go to pilsner is bitter w/ magnum for ~15.5 ibu @ 60 to go, Tett and hallertau @ 15 for ~8.5 IBU ea, Hallertau and perle @ 5 or less mins @ half as much hops by weight as previous addition, then whirlpool with the same amount of hallertau as the last addition. I shoot for around 35-38 ibu's and 5%abv. Good luck with your pilsner, I bet it will come out fine.

Fingers crossed! I like your approach and hop selection.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Well all this talk of crisp hoppy pilsners has got me thinking I'll join the fray and brew one this weekend. What's your go to malt back bone for this ?
Off my Last pils I went Pilsner malt 3.5 kg .5kg Munich light and 100g acidulated.

 

[heady]

It is that time of year

I like the idea of putting some munich in there for some body in lieu of something else. I'm using around 2.5% C10 and 5% carapils w/ german 2 row at this point. Works well, but I'm always tweeking it. I think my hbs has weyermann's, I've used them, best malz and another one. One thing I like to do is make a light clean ale hopped like a pils w/ american grain and US-05, mo faux pils. Lagering is a pita when you have 1 freezer and it's the kegerator. But it's certainly not the same and hence we brew more pilsner

 

[Tokki]

My grain bill was 6.5 # Belgian Pilsner, 3.5# American Pilsner, 0.5 Flaked corn, 2 oz Saaz (30 min), 1 oz Tett (20 min), WyEast Pilsen 2007, 5.5 gallon batch with 3.5 gallon boil. Given my 'issue' with the yeast I used, I may go with some of the suggestions the forum has provided.

 

[GFHomebrew]

I'm going to try the grain bill I mentioned with 34/70 last time I used an ale yeast wlp090 and it turned out fine thought I'd give it a run with 34/70 and see which one I prefer.

 

[Tokki]

I'm going to try the grain bill I mentioned with 34/70 last time I used an ale yeast wlp090 and it turned out fine thought I'd give it a run with 34/70 and see which one I prefer.

I may try it as well since you've had success with it. I have your grain adds but what was your boil/final volume and (here's my ignorance) what is 100 gm acidulated?

 

[GFHomebrew]

I may try it as well since you've had success with it. I have your grain adds but what was your boil/final volume and (here's my ignorance) what is 100 gm acidulated?

The 100g Weyermann acidulated malt to bring down my mash ph to around 5.2-3 ph range. I did have carapils in that recipe too but after reading a brulosophy exbeerment on its head retention qualities I thought I'd test it with this pils and see for myself. A perfect way to test too as nothing but pils and Munich in the malt bill. Here's the recipe below I haven't changed it yet to sub out the carapils and the different yeast cheers
http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/415755/t-b-pilsner