overnight mash

[GFHomebrew]

Temp of the wort was 58 oC this morning ...

Still in the protine rest

 

[Donoroto]

So, if lactobacillus is a threat, what about removing the grain and then raising the wort to something like 180F for pasteurization, then storing it overnight? If the objective is to split the boil time out to a later day, without risking lactobacillus, what difference does it make if you raise the temperature for pasteurization? I thought leaving the grain in mash temperature water too long was a really bad idea (tanins, etc), but perhaps not, according to the article that @Ward Chillington linked. The only negative comment I saw on the whole thing was that head retention was somewhat affected. This wouldn't be a new problem to me, but nor am I too affected by brew day time limits. Equipment limits, yes, time, nope. Wouldn't it be cool to have a 6th Century monk around to ask how they did it, and how much they lost to infection? I get it, when it's hot outside, and muggy, it ain't fun to brew outside.

The only concern is that as the liquid cools it shrinks, meaning that it will want to draw air into the container. If you can figure out a way to keep that air really clean, such as a filter, then I think it would be fine.

 

[RoadRoach]

The only concern is that as the liquid cools it shrinks, meaning that it will want to draw air into the container. If you can figure out a way to keep that air really clean, such as a filter, then I think it would be fine.

Air locks work both directions. What about one filled with a spoonful of ethyl alcohol or StarSan. StarSan foams though, and will likely deplete itself. Shouldn’t be enough to hurt the wort, but maybe won’t last long enough. Depends on head space, temperature, and vessel volume I guess.

 

[Donoroto]

Air locks work both directions. What about one filled with a spoonful of ethyl alcohol or StarSan. StarSan foams though, and will likely deplete itself. Shouldn’t be enough to hurt the wort, but maybe won’t last long enough. Depends on head space, temperature, and vessel volume I guess.

The airlock keeps things from going in the wrong way, but it doesn't filter the air that actually move through it. So if a vacuum in the fermenter is drawing air from outside, any microbes that are in that hair will get through. At least some of them, because the alcohol never contact them inside the bubbles.

You can get a medical grade filter, like the ones used for aerating wort, from the pharmacy or just make one with a couple of moist cotton balls stuffed into a tube.

 

[RoadRoach]

The airlock keeps things from going in the wrong way, but it doesn't filter the air that actually move through it. So if a vacuum in the fermenter is drawing air from outside, any microbes that are in that hair will get through. At least some of them, because the alcohol never contact them inside the bubbles.

You can get a medical grade filter, like the ones used for aerating wort, from the pharmacy or just make one with a couple of moist cotton balls stuffed into a tube.

Ever see what a Rainbow vacuum does to even the finest dust? There's a lot more turbulance because of the higher air flow, but technically it works just like an air-lock and scrubs dirt/mold/dust out of the air picked up by the vacuum by forcing it through water. Some pretty nasty stuff comes outta that reservoir. They're actually designed to be air-filters/fresheners as well on low speed. We used it that way once during pollen season, and I was impressed at how much pollen it trapped.

Most atmospheric fermenters (buckets) will go slightly negative pressure when they cool down after fermentation drops off, and the airflow will reverse in the air-lock, at least for a few bubbles if necessary. Nothing to be done for it. Any negative temperature swing after fermentation is completed will also pull more air in. There's a really nice CO2 blanket sitting on top at atmospheric pressure, but still outside air will be drawn in. CO2 is heavier than air, so it will take a while for the air to homogenize with the CO2. I don't put anything but clean water in my air locks, but I do soak them in StarSan before I put the water in. I may be more subject to some molds and natural yeasts out here in the tractor shed. We'll see. But now that I have the freezer, the only time my batch will really be exposed to open air is while it's near boiling temperature and while being cooled for pitch. That's a pretty limited time in the grand scheme, compared to the days it sits during fermentation. I can see why fermenting under pressure certainly solves a lot of problems. Eventually I'll get there with the cool gadgets and gear.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Hepa filter is what you need for pushing air .

 

[Donoroto]

and I was impressed at how much pollen it trapped.

Yes, but how much did it miss? In theory one bacterium is enough.

Practically, you're absolutely right. A little bit of air won't do any harm.

Nothing to be done for it.

Like he[[ there isn't! What Ben says above (and I said before): a simple $3 filter...

I'm only arguing the point because I've got a disease, it's called an engineering degree.

 

[NorthWest Small Batch Brewing]

What did I miss we are talking overnight mash right? Who cares if air gets sucked in? You haven't boiled yet. The boil will kill anything that could be a problem. Anyway I am going to try an overnight mash next brew, and leave the kettle on at mash temp overnight and see what happens. If you are talking fermenters .... I cold crash in a keg but I did see an airlock you can get that is a breathable airlock that doesn't use any liquid .... https://www.morebeer.com/products/c...zS0tsgb7JlY8PiQO0d542NXMDANBovJAaAhhjEALw_wcB

 

[Zambi]

The beer has been bottled by now. Still a bit young, but so far so good