New brewer with questions :)

[Mont Y. Märzen]

Interesting point about the water loss, I hadn't really considered that. My first attempt didn't boil off as much as the recipe expected, but I was using an extension cord and I've read that can make quite a difference. Next time I'll figure out how to get the Brewzilla near enough to the wall socket and see what difference that makes.

Careful! You may have been experiencing reduced current draw.

If the actual wire run from your breaker to the outlet is more than 50ft (this includes, ups, downs, and turns inside the walls and attic!) the cable gauge should be thicker than normal for the circuit amperage to handle the current draw. You have to add the length of the extension cord to this distance if using one. (so total distance to the appliance drawing the current)

You can't change the wire in the wall, so your only option is to use an appropriate gauge extension cord, and/or a shorter one. If the gauge of the cord is too thin (higher number) or too long, your appliance will attempt to draw current that it cannot. (size of the 'pipe' is too narrow) This can lead to an overheating condition either at the breaker, or where connections are made and sometimes even along the cord or cabling. You could start a fire or melt something down.

Heavy gauge short cords are available or can be made up if this is a 30A/220V unit. Expect to spend at least $100 if not twice that. If you can plug the Brewzilla in directly, that is the best option.

 

[Minbari]

Careful! You may have been experiencing reduced current draw.

If the actual wire run from your breaker to the outlet is more than 50ft (this includes, ups, downs, and turns inside the walls and attic!) the cable gauge should be thicker than normal for the circuit amperage to handle the current draw. You have to add the length of the extension cord to this distance if using one. (so total distance to the appliance drawing the current)

You can't change the wire in the wall, so your only option is to use an appropriate gauge extension cord, and/or a shorter one. If the gauge of the cord is too thin (higher number) or too long, your appliance will attempt to draw current that it cannot. (size of the 'pipe' is too narrow) This can lead to an overheating condition either at the breaker, or where connections are made and sometimes even along the cord or cabling. You could start a fire or melt something down.

Heavy gauge short cords are available or can be made up if this is a 30A/220V unit. Expect to spend at least $100 if not twice that. If you can plug the Brewzilla in directly, that is the best option.

Not how it works. If you start with 110vac and draw 10A of current. The resistance in the wire will drop some of the voltage (which is why the wire can get hot) but heating element a simple resistive element. Less voltage means less current.

That said, proper wiring is important and what you said about extention cords isn't wrong

 

[Sandy Feet]

Interesting chart - thanks

If I don't get better with the hydrometer soon I may have to invest in a swear jar

Mine was sticking too. I bought a plastic graduating test jar. It now works much better and was only $3.50. Read from the bubble on the bottom. I have a glass hydrometer and a plastic one. I have broken enough glass hydrometers so that I now have my plastic one in reserve.
I also have a refractometer for OG. It was on Amazon and less than $20. Those you can't use for FG, only OG. Comparing the two for OG makes sure you are in the ballpark.

 

[Donoroto]

Interesting point about the water loss, I hadn't really considered that. My first attempt didn't boil off as much as the recipe expected, but I was using an extension cord and I've read that can make quite a difference. Next time I'll figure out how to get the Brewzilla near enough to the wall socket and see what difference that makes.

Ah, you likely have the 120V version. Get a 12 AWG extension cord and you should be good there.

As mentioned, don't sweat the boil off. Focus on getting the liquid amount that you want in your fermenter.

Hydrometers: I'm convinced the glass is magnetically attracted to the plastic vial. It just is, dunno why. The refractometer I got was about $20 and it works great, but they do drift a little from week to week so calibrate it with water before each use.

 

[Mont Y. Märzen]

Mine was sticking too. I bought a plastic graduating test jar. It now works much better and was only $3.50. Read from the bubble on the bottom. I have a glass hydrometer and a plastic one. I have broken enough glass hydrometers so that I now have my plastic one in reserve.
I also have a refractometer for OG. It was on Amazon and less than $20. Those you can't use for FG, only OG. Comparing the two for OG makes sure you are in the ballpark.

BF has a standalone calc and also built into the log feature for a session to report a Brix reading on a refractometer 'with alcohol present'. It is of course an estimation fudge, but I've calibrated it on point every time with a hydrometer. I use a hydrometer at packaging for 'official' FG (since I use it for OG too), but use my refractometer to monitor fermentation progress for guiding my decision to crash, step for Diacetyl, etc.

 

[Zambi]

One addition to Monty's post above about refractometers (I hardly ever use hydrometers anymore).
You can monitor the "end" of fermentation without the correction table.
If the reading is the same 2-3 days apart, fermentation is done (in most cases).
To know the real FG, use the tables

 

[Megary]

I have never found a hydrometer reading to show any meaningful difference (+/- .001) whether it sticks to the side of the cylinder or it's floating free.

 

[Sandy Feet]

Mine would stick in the small, plastic container and read high. I would try it a couple of times, and eventually, it would read right. In a bigger test jar, I can usually get a decent reading.
The refractometer works well for the most part, but I have to take my glasses off which sucks. I can read the big Brix number without glasses which is good enough, but the OG number is quite blurry.

 

[Herm brews]

The refractometer I got was about $20 and it works great, but they do drift a little from week to week so calibrate it with water before each use.

I think my refractometer cost ~$40, and it also works great, most of the time. During a brew day, it gets used many times, and sometimes there is “drift” on the same sample. I have taken to keeping a small container of water handy, and tend to calibrate before each sample. Another funny thing - I am left eye dominant, and have always read the refracto with my left eye, and struggle to read it clearly. Just the other day, I decided to read it with my right eye. Wow, huge difference in clarity. That probably means I need glasses, right?

 

[Donoroto]

I think my refractometer cost ~$40, and it also works great, most of the time. During a brew day, it gets used many times, and sometimes there is “drift” on the same sample. I have taken to keeping a small container of water handy, and tend to calibrate before each sample. Another funny thing - I am left eye dominant, and have always read the refracto with my left eye, and struggle to read it clearly. Just the other day, I decided to read it with my right eye. Wow, huge difference in clarity. That probably means I need glasses, right?

Perhaps. Mine can change focus by rotating the eyepiece.

 

[Semper Sitientum]

Several years ago I treated myself to a digital refractometer. It was pricey, but that’s what we do in this hobby. Easy to calibrate and read. Measures accurately to the 10th of a gravity point.

 

[Ward Chillington]

2. I'm finding the hydrometer frustrating. It really likes to stick to the side of the test jar instead of floating freely. Any tips on how to avoid this?

First...welcome!
Second...RDWHAHB...frustration is over rated!
Third...hold the hydrometer from the top, thumb and fore finger while in the filled cylinder then spin it like a top...come back in a minute and take a reading.

 

[Ward Chillington]

2. I'm finding the hydrometer frustrating. It really likes to stick to the side of the test jar instead of floating freely. Any tips on how to avoid this?

First...welcome!
Second...RDWHAHB...frustration is over rated!
Third...hold the hydrometer from the top, thumb and fore finger while in the filled cylinder then spin it like a top...come back in a minute and take a reading

 

[Sandy Feet]

I think my refractometer cost ~$40, and it also works great, most of the time. During a brew day, it gets used many times, and sometimes there is “drift” on the same sample. I have taken to keeping a small container of water handy, and tend to calibrate before each sample. Another funny thing - I am left eye dominant, and have always read the refracto with my left eye, and struggle to read it clearly. Just the other day, I decided to read it with my right eye. Wow, huge difference in clarity. That probably means I need glasses, right?

Getting old sucks. I wonder how I know?

 

[Donoroto]

Getting old sucks. I wonder how I know?

Beats the alternative...

 

[Dave Gluten Sensitive Williams]

First...welcome!
Second...RDWHAHB...frustration is over rated!
Third...hold the hydrometer from the top, thumb and fore finger while in the filled cylinder then spin it like a top...come back in a minute and take a re

RDWHAHB - good advice although I admit I had to Google it

 

[Zambi]

RDWHAHB - good advice although I admit I had to Google it

Best advice you'll ever get!

 

[Sandy Feet]

Beats the alternative...

You got me there.

 

[Minbari]

BF has a standalone calc and also built into the log feature for a session to report a Brix reading on a refractometer 'with alcohol present'. It is of course an estimation fudge, but I've calibrated it on point every time with a hydrometer. I use a hydrometer at packaging for 'official' FG (since I use it for OG too), but use my refractometer to monitor fermentation progress for guiding my decision to crash, step for Diacetyl, etc.

until I got my tilts setup, this is how I did it. I brewed for like 9 years before I ever bought a hydrometer, lol

 

[Bigbre04]

Mine was sticking too. I bought a plastic graduating test jar. It now works much better and was only $3.50. Read from the bubble on the bottom. I have a glass hydrometer and a plastic one. I have broken enough glass hydrometers so that I now have my plastic one in reserve.
I also have a refractometer for OG. It was on Amazon and less than $20. Those you can't use for FG, only OG. Comparing the two for OG makes sure you are in the ballpark.

you also need to adjust the refractometer based on temperature. Easiest way is to take the sample and then let it sit and cool and use your ambient temp and online calculators. also gotta be careful of what scale they use when you buy one. I think you can get them with SG on them as well as brix, sadly no one makes one for plato(that i have found yet). Also try to get one that has a smaller range because it will be more accurate and easier to read. Mine goes from 0-18 Brix i think.

They make unbreakable Hydrometers, but they are pricey and dont have temp calibration like the glass ones do.

For me temp calibration is pretty important, but this is not really a hobby for me... temp can make a pretty big difference in the actual reading.

These are the type that I have always used in commercial settings. Pricey, but accurate. I keep a 0-8, 8-16, and 16-24 plato set on hand.
https://www.amazon.com/SafetyBlue-ThermoHydrometer-Thermometer-Traceable-Certificate/dp/B00YYMG5EU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=31K11458WFWMU&keywords=hydrometer+plato&qid=1698428606&sprefix=hydrometer+plato,aps,116&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

This is the Refract that I currently have(in a different scale). It is good, but i rarely use a refract.
https://www.amazon.com/Refractometer（Teflon-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation-Refractometer/dp/B07BN9RGGK/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=1RD2BNYIZSTOW&keywords=hydrometer+plato+plastic&qid=1698428741&sprefix=hydrometer+plato+plastic,aps,117&sr=8-22-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1

Shatterproof hydrometer, but not temp calibrating. This one is pricey but maybe its cheaper if you end up breaking them every time you use them!
https://www.coleparmer.com/i/cole-p...414JnzPCjSXmqizDFVy1Gc_U04eJ4YYRoCvMQQAvD_BwE