Need help with Light American Psuedolager

[Dirty Dingo Brewing CO.]

Well with only 2 weeks, you better get brewing, today!
The beers mentioned above will work, but getting the beer finished, carbed and clear, start to finish will be a tall task.
I'd suggest an American Wheat with a nice fruity hop like Amarillo or even Mosaic on the cold side.
This won't be expected to be clear and will be ready to drink in 2 weeks and is a crowd pleaser.
~1.040
~ 17 IBU
~ 4.3%
my 2 cents
Good Luck!
Brian

I second this. I purposefully make a crushable American Wheat here in OZ and people absolutely love it. I can have it ready in as little as 7 days.

 

[Randy Stoat]

Thanks for all the great responses and help, I really appreciate it! I ended up making this beer 12/13. A lot of firsts for me... 1st cream ale, 1st brew in the new (to me) house, 1st time having to heat a beer to keep it in temp range. Even did no chill for the first time since 2013. Just too damn tired and cold to mess with the CFC and at around 32F all night the wort ended up at 63F by the time I got around to it in the morning. All in all it was a good brew day even though it took twice as long having to unpack and search for brewing equipment.

Edit - 1st time using glucoamylase too. Put 1/2 tsp in last 20 minutes of mash. Will definitely be light and will be interesting to see if any corn or rice flavor make it through.

 

[Randy Stoat]

2 weeks? Better consider kveik!

I made three beers with Voss last summer and I feel like it stripped hop aroma and flavor on all of them and all I got was the yeast. I had such high hopes for Kviek too.

Edit - At 90F they all finished fermenting in 48 hours or less but took two or more weeks to clear and clean up.

 

[Randy Stoat]

You can totally pull it off in 2 weeks, assuming you keg and have reasonable temp control. Recipe needs to be simple - 90% Pilsner or 2 row, 10% Vienna, noble hops, pretty much nothing else. @The Brew Mentor 's specs are the right target - definitely stay below 1.050 OG and below 20 IBU
Day 0 - Brew. Use Whirlfloc. Cool wort to 60, oxygenate and pitch 2 packets of rehydrated S-23 or 34/70 or K-97 per 5 gallons.
Day 1 - Confirm fermentation activity...should fully krausen within 36 hours
Day 3 - Confirm that fermentation is slowing down but still active.
Day 4 - Check gravity...should be around1.020, with krausen falling. Raise temp to 68 over the course of the day.
Day 5 - Check gravity...should be within a couple of points of FG, if not completely done.
Day 7 - Check gravity to confirm FG
Day 8 - Check gravity to confirm FG If possible, chill to 35 degrees.
Day 9 - Transfer to keg along with a tablespoon of Biofine per keg, pressurize to 40 lbs through the "out" connection and rock the keg for 2 -3 minutes if chilled or 3 to 4 minutes if room temp. Put in kegerator without CO2 connected.
Day 10 - Top up pressure to 30 lbs (using in connection), Leave CO2 disconnected.
Day 11 - Connect CO2 as usual, set pressure to serving level and pour off 2-3 pints of sludge until beer runs clear. Set pressure for desired CO2 volumes and leave CO2 connected.
Day 12, 13 - Pour off a pint or so to check for clearing.
Day 14 - Serve clear, clean lager style beer.

If you're stuck with either S-04 or US-05, you'll have a very clean American Blonde/Cream Ale and your BMC'ers won't have any problem with it. Just change the initial fermentation temp to 64 for S-04 and 66 for US-05.

Clear concise instructions to use lager yeast at ale temps in a two week time frame. Thanks! Been wanting to make a lager but unable to lager a beer for weeks at a time.

 

[J A]

Clear concise instructions to use lager yeast at ale temps in a two week time frame. Thanks! Been wanting to make a lager but unable to lager a beer for weeks at a time.

This is a good formula. To really make it work in two weeks, though, everything has to be pretty spot on. It's all about the clearing and sedimentation. I've used Biofine for a number of batches and it works nicely. It's very important to let it settle long enough to get everything gunked up at the bottom so it all blows out and leaves nothing but clear beer flowing. I've often transferred to a "brite" keg after clearing to be sure that there's not a bit of sediment left and that makes it possible to move the keg without stirring it up again.