Fermentation stop to fast (2nd time 2nd bach)

Mastoras007 said:
is there any chance that heating the beer during fermentation from my heating control system could kill the yeast?
i use a coiled heating cable with a thermostat which keeps it at 19-20 degrees it works every 30 minutes or so for 1-2 minutes.
it can reach max 40 degrees celsius, but as i mentioned it works for 1-2 minutes evenly until it raises the temperature, it starts at 19.5 and stops at 20
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No, wouldn't effect it
 
The 160F in that recipe is STRIKE WATER. Heat to 160F. Turn heat off. Add grain. Put top on kettle. That should be close to 152F after the grain cools the water. Take a temp reading after the mash. It should be close to 152F.
Don't screw with it during fermentation. Just check for activity. After 3 days, your activity will substantially calm down. Again, leave the damn thing alone. Let it go for 14 days and then bottle or keg.
 
@Mastoras007 What @Sandy Feet wrote above it very important!

Heat the water to 72 C. Put in the grain. The temperature will drop to 66 C because the grain is colder. LEAVE IT AT 66 C.

Do not heat it more.

Later, maybe a little heat to keep it all at 64-66. Not more.

There is no need to mash out. Meaning, no need to change temperature.

Do this and the beer will be better.
 
Mastoras007 said:
https://beginnerbrewer.com/biab-recipe-blonde-ale/
next batch i will!
yes my recipe say start 72 then keep 66
you say one step mash, meaning to skip mash out?
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You may be misunderstanding the "start temperature" this would be the water temperature before adding grains, adding the grains will bring the temperature down to 66C, which is what you want. You never want the mash (grains and water mixed together) to be 72C.
 
Ok guys I got it now.
Next week I'm starting over
I will throw in toilet those two batches
 
Mastoras007 said:
is there any chance that heating the beer during fermentation from my heating control system could kill the yeast?
i use a coiled heating cable with a thermostat which keeps it at 19-20 degrees it works every 30 minutes or so for 1-2 minutes.
it can reach max 40 degrees celsius, but as i mentioned it works for 1-2 minutes evenly until it raises the temperature, it starts at 19.5 and stops at 20
Click to expand...
While high temps can kill, or at least stress the yeast, during fermentation, the temperature control system you have should keep the temperature where you want it.
 
Mastoras007 said:
Ok guys I got it now.
Next week I'm starting over
I will throw in toilet those two batches
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If they are drinkable, you can keep them. It's not that they aren't beer. Just alter your process and it will get better.

We have all been where you are.
 
Mastoras007 said:
View attachment 28405View attachment 28406View attachment 28407View attachment 28408
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Is this sime DIY heat belt cool!

Mashing at 72c just creates a more dextrinous wort think adding way too much Carapils in the beer.
Dextrins are hard to taste so don't sweat it.
Brulosophy have done heaps of exbeeriments where people couldnt tell a beer apart where one beef finishes high compared to low final gravities.

I'd imagine your finishing gravity on that beer was quite high like 1.016ish?

Every single beer I make these days is loaded full of dextrines they are slightly sweet but not as sweet as you'd think...

Don't sweat it man it'll be beer.
Live n learn for next time.
 
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Zambezi Special said:
Just keep your beers for a while if you don't like them straight away. The taste keeps developing.
Unless infected, wait at least a month after bottling before deciding to dump them
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X100
I had one batch recently that I wasn't sure about, it hadn't turned out as intended initially
After a couple more weeks in the keg and it improved immensely
Patience is one of the most important ingredients in beer
 
Brewing takes the kind of patience that smoking meat does. I was watching some stupid cooking show the other week, and saw a guy say "If you are looking, it ain't cooking". Stupid sounding maybe, but very true. You leave the beer alone and let it do its thing too.
 
As others have said, you need to get the mash temperature correct at maybe 63C to 69C. Before mixing the grains into the water, it's best to use the calculator in Brewers Friend, to determine what water temperature is needed (under "Tools" then "Calculators" it's called "Mash Calculator"). The other common mistake is to use a refractometer to measure the final gravity, which will give you an incorrect result so, it's best to use a hydrometer.
 
hello again everyone
i had alot of work past days and i didn't procced to the next batch.
I make today a quality test of 2nd batch and the result is to bad.
Beer is suck! LoL to bitter and general the taste is very strange, and bad, is not drinkable.
Dont know what went wrong with this batch, any way i have alot of work next days, i will prepair for next batch with caution
 
Sorry to hear, but give it time...
Bitterness mellows over time, the yeast will keep cleaning up off-flavours
 
Zambi said:
Sorry to hear, but give it time...
Bitterness mellows over time, the yeast will keep cleaning up off-flavours
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No no, it's not something that can fix
It's sure infected or something
 
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