Electric element protection

I was going to run 2 120 volt 1500 watt elements that way I didn't have to run a new circuits but I can always run a 240 circuit I'm only 60 feet away total that includes putting an underground coming back up through the wall Etc
 
2 -1500 watt elements might work better than a 2000, I've never tried it, I have one their only 4 inches long but their not ulwd so they don't last
 
this is a 2000w element cleaned very well and you can see what happens with no coating

WP_20180801_16_02_19_Pro.jpg
 
Im planning on stainless elements i know they still get dirty but i really want to move forward to electric brewing.
 
CRUNK said:
You very well be just the man I need to speak with I was going to use the blichmann boilcoil in my Brew Kettle I was going to have it shipped to stout tanks to put it in for me they asked if I would be interested in going with 21.5 TC ports and running do element which doesn't bother me except for the fact that I only have a 30 amp 120 circuit running to the shed which isn't bad because I can put a 40 amp breaker on that line and put 2:20 amp Breakers in the sub panel but now I need to know whether I can run two 1500 watt elements off of one PID or can I hook them up tie them into one single sensor in the same pot and run them both simultaneously through One controller and one piece of software so they act as one not 2
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If I understand your question, you are asking if you can run more than 1 heater element on one controller. Yes you can, you can control multiple elements on separate AC circuits. Your PID needs to drive either a single SSR that can handle the current (50 amp) for 2 elements on a single circuit or multiple SSR's (25 amp) to control elements on separate circuits. That being said, it would be better to get a higher voltage (240 Vac) out to the shed, the higher the voltage the lighter the gauge of the wire without dropping power output.

30 amp, 120Vac circuit can drive two 1500 watt but the current would be 25 amps. It will work, but NEC code says that a circuit should not have a continuous load that exceeds 80% of breaker capacity. That would be 24 amps. But....... it will work. 3000 watts is the bare minimum for a 5 gallon system.

On my RIMS system I used all stainless steel hot water heating elements with a tri-clamp adapter and I think they are superior to Blichmann's elements and they are cheaper.
 
So many options, but i think by the sounds of it, i should run a 240 circuit.
 
I agree, I looked but couldn't find anything lower than a 4500 in the better elements, a 3500 will work and that cuts down on the amperage to the shed so you wouldn't need a 30 amp main a 25 amp double pole would work
 
Ozarks Mountain Brew said:
I agree, I looked but couldn't find anything lower than a 4500 in the better elements, a 3500 will work and that cuts down on the amperage to the shed so you wouldn't need a 30 amp main a 25 amp double pole would work
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If im going to run a second circuit i might as well go with a 30 amp and just use a single 5500w element

Here is a cocktail napkin drawing for your amusement. It's set up just like my system is right now only I'm switching from gas-fired to Electric and I would love to go Arduino so I have the ability to add on later with mechanical valves that's also something that I'm probably going to have a lot of questions on.
20180729_151801_resized.jpg
 
Mark D Pirate said:
My kettle doesn't have any , all the brains running my lil brewhouse are stuck in my head
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I'm not smarter than my control panel unfortunately, and I always think I'll remember, but................
So I have simple float valves. I don't think I've "needed" it in the last 7 or 8 years, but it definitely is great to have in case of distractions/kids/dogs/phones/ during a brewday.
 
I put this system together based on the blichmann breweasy which is basically a two vessel Brew in the bag
 
Currently on this setup using a burner and a mash tun made from a cooler I am able to perform a step Mash and I am running less than half a degree difference between the two kettles so keeping the temperature where I want it has been awesome
 
CRUNK said:
So many options, but i think by the sounds of it, i should run a 240 circuit.
Click to expand...

Well, if your batch size is going to be (and stay) very small, you could get away with not doing it. But when I had a heating element in my first brewery that ran on 110, it took 90 minutes to go from simmering to a boil. That just wouldn't do, and I did small batches then. I've never been sorry I went with a 240, utilizing a spa panel (cheaper way to do it) so that I had ample power, safe loads, and GFCI. Yes, it costs a little more, but spend once, cry once.
 
Yooper said:
Well, if your batch size is going to be (and stay) very small, you could get away with not doing it. But when I had a heating element in my first brewery that ran on 110, it took 90 minutes to go from simmering to a boil. That just wouldn't do, and I did small batches then. I've never been sorry I went with a 240, utilizing a spa panel (cheaper way to do it) so that I had ample power, safe loads, and GFCI. Yes, it costs a little more, but spend once, cry once.
Click to expand...

I totally agree it's only going to cost me maybe a hundred bucks to run a 30 amp 240 vac service out to the shed
 
These kettles are going to be the basic kettles offered by Stout but the lids are going to be customized to accommodate low oxygen Brewing as they will have seals and I will be able to clamp the lids down onto the kettles

Everything is going to be tied together for closed transfers
 
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