I like the aspect of consistency, and I feel that the efficiency numbers help express the consistency of my process. That and good tasting beer.
I don't find us to be the average homebrew club.I knew there was something missing from monthly BF Zoom meetings!
That's what it's good for. The number doesn't matter and will change system to system. The only efficiency number that matters is your own.I like the aspect of consistency, and I feel that the efficiency numbers help express the consistency of my process. That and good tasting beer.
I'd check measurements in that case, that's a very wide range for process error.Right, I am definitely shooting for a consistent conversion and/or brew house efficiency so I can plan better. If I know I can only get 60 percent conversion efficiency, I'd be ok, but it is just all over the place (49-88).
Hydrometers dont lie you gotta trust your measurements
Amen all part of the learning experience and thankfully the brains trust have built in a wort temp correction factor into the hydrometer section.They do if you don't correct for temperature. I even get variable readings on my refractometer as the wort cools on it.
Mine goes up a couple points as the wort and the stage equalize their temperature.They do if you don't correct for temperature. I even get variable readings on my refractometer as the wort cools on it.
True that I've yet to buy a refractometer but looking at the price kegland have theirs going well will see...I definitely needed to learn how to take a consistent refractometer reading. Taking multiple readings, giving the temperatures time to adjust, counting to 30 cats and dogs, etc. It helped eliminate some of my early fluctuations in numbers.
We all brew differently... If it works for you, it works. As for refractometer reading, I get my pH sample in a 50 ml beaker, load my refractometer, let the temperature equalize for a couple minutes, then read. Key is consistency.True that I've yet to buy a refractometer but looking at the price kegland have theirs going well will see...
On brew day I'll take a pre boil and post boil sample usually in a left over jam jar (yeast collection jar) and cool them and let them sit pretty much until brew days sorted clean up is done and beer is in hand ready to go over my notes of what I scribbled down on brew day then i do my second check on pre boil and take a OG reading.
I'm not a splitting hairs type brewer but like to line up my brew day numbers where possible I'm either inconsistently consistent of consistently consistent but the numbers are usually pretty close after all these years inputting them into the BF system.
I can really count on the BF recipe editor predicting my Final gravity within a few points
Another thing I do to the wort prior to the refractometer reading is to filter the sample through a paper towel or napkin. It reduces the solids and you get a more defined line on the sight glass.I definitely needed to learn how to take a consistent refractometer reading. Taking multiple readings, giving the temperatures time to adjust, counting to 30 cats and dogs, etc. It helped eliminate some of my early fluctuations in numbers.
I let it settle while it cools, same principle.Another thing I do to the wort prior to the refractometer reading is to filter the sample through a paper towel or napkin. It reduces the solids and you get a more defined line on the sight glass.
I let refractometer samples cool 2-3 minutes in the little plastic eye dropper thingies, and I definitely get a crisper line to read.
Probably. But I thought pipettes were open on both ends, this little plastic eye dropper thingie has a bulb on one end...“Little plastic eye dropper thingies” = Pipettes
We’re both correct.Probably. But I thought pipettes were open on both ends, this little plastic eye dropper thingie has a bulb on one end...
Update: the bag they came in says"Pipettes". So there's that then...We’re both correct.