Bulin’s brew system 3.0
- Thread starter Tim Bulin
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Is aus all 240 or 120?I did the same on my Patio for a bit burnt out the 15 Amp line and fried the outlet.
Now I run the element as close to the socket as possible.
I've been doing some homework, a 65l DigiBoil running wide open should draw about 17 amps. I'm on a 30 amp circut SO...as long as I run the 2nd unit at, say 2500w or less I SHOULD be fine running them both.
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You can also get a pwm module for it. Knock the voltage down from 240vac to 180-200vac. Would allow use of of all the elements, at reduced wattage
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Coming together….everything is assembled and leak tested. Tomorrow I’ll get the steam condenser mounted, sanitize the chiller and see what she’s got under the hood.
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nice and shiny
240V
I used to do this run one 2300W full ball and have another dialed back with a PWM.
Then I bought the 3300Watt element that's got plenty of Juice
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Is that the full system running with everything on? Any 120v stuff PLUS 210v for your kettles?
120 for the pumps is on a different breaker.
First impressions,
1. The Chappman is a beast, pre-heated to 150 and stabilized with hot sanitizer, then drained and mashed in. Temp was spot on and dropped a wopping 1 degree in a 60 minute mash. Not bad at all, especially for a 5 gallon batch with a 15 gallon tun.
2. Minor thing, the new Digiboil isn't calibrated right, boiling at 206F. Not a big deal as I'm heating the strike/sparge water with the old one.
Right now the Drea's red is boiling and the Irish Stout is mashed in. Took a tip from a brewerey tour I did 12-13(who know's anymore) years ago. When I toured Red Hooks East Coast brewery(are they even still open?). They told me that between batches they just empty the vessels and add the new mash/wort, claimed that there is not enough if the bottom of the vessel to make a difference in the next beer. So it was just a scoop out all the spent grain and reload the tun, we'll see how that works. Temp was spot on so...
1. The Chappman is a beast, pre-heated to 150 and stabilized with hot sanitizer, then drained and mashed in. Temp was spot on and dropped a wopping 1 degree in a 60 minute mash. Not bad at all, especially for a 5 gallon batch with a 15 gallon tun.
2. Minor thing, the new Digiboil isn't calibrated right, boiling at 206F. Not a big deal as I'm heating the strike/sparge water with the old one.
Right now the Drea's red is boiling and the Irish Stout is mashed in. Took a tip from a brewerey tour I did 12-13(who know's anymore) years ago. When I toured Red Hooks East Coast brewery(are they even still open?). They told me that between batches they just empty the vessels and add the new mash/wort, claimed that there is not enough if the bottom of the vessel to make a difference in the next beer. So it was just a scoop out all the spent grain and reload the tun, we'll see how that works. Temp was spot on so...
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Check your altitude. Mine boils at 208, for 700ft above sea level, spot on
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mine is 209
Well the Irish Stout hit gravity spot on, and(due to eliminating all dead space by running back to back batches), was over by a full gallon resuting in 88% efficiency, realizing that this is due to wort left in the system from the previous batch. Would tend to make me think that the biggest challenge for improving my overall efficency is eliminating waste.
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is that just from liquid in the tubing and pump, etc?
Tubing, pumps, mash tun kettle. I litterally just scooped out the spent grain and hops, then added the next batch to the system.
All in all. pretty smooth brew day, should invest in another pump, some more hoses and hardware. Probably build a water tight master power control panel while I'm at it.
This filter in the boil kettle does a good job with keeping gunk out of the chiller, but. I don't think it flows quite as good as I'd like. Think I'm going to switch it out for a large 300 micron basket.
On the plus side, nailed my effeciency on today's batch.
