Bitterness aftertaste

Not all municipal water has chlorine or chloramides.
Check with the supplier
fair enough as this is in Greece (I believe), although I can say with some confidence that in North America it will definitely have chlorine, or chloromine (not chloromide).
Definitely check with your water source, and either get a report from them, or get your water tested.
 
As I said water here to my city, its good to drink as it is no need filtration.
With carbon filtration is great
Wen - if comes time to sell beer of course I will get water analysis, depends on results i will decide if I'm going to use RO or not
 
this is the analysis given from local water provider, uploaded to ther site

Escherichia coli
Not detected-
0 cfu/100mL

Enterococcus
Not detected-
0 cfu/100mL

Turbidity
0.41 NTU
Acceptable to consumers and without unusual change

Acceptable + No unusual change
Acceptable to consumers and without unusual change 07/01/2025

Odor
Acceptable + No unusual change

pH
7.7 pH
≥6.5 and ≤9.5

Conductance
490 μS/cm at 20°C
2500 μS/cm at 20°C

Residual chlorine
0.55 mg/L
mg/L

Coliforms
Not detected
0 cfu/100mL

Colony count at 22°C 11 cfu/
mL
No unusual change

Iron
Not detected
200 μg/L

Ammonium
Not detected
0.5 mg/L

Chloride salts
10 mg/L
250 mg/L

Clostridium Perfringens
Not detected
0 cfu/100mL

Manganese
Not detected
50 μg/L

Sulphates
23 mg/L
250 mg/L

Colony count at 37°C 7 cfu/
mL
No unusual change

Chemical parameters -
Arsenic
Not detected-
10 μg/L

Bromates
Not detected-
10 μg/L

Cadmium
Not detected-
5 μg/L

Chromium
Not detected-
50 μg/L

Copper
Not detected-
2 mg/L

Lead
Not detected-
10 μg/L

Nickel
Not detected-
20 μg/L

Nitrates
19 mg/L-
50 mg/L
 
2;1 sulfate to chloride is good the chlorine needs to be removed and maybe adjust for Ph other than that it should be fine for most beers and shouldn't cause your aftertaste
 
so 20 min additions are gonna give you additional bitterness. move the cascade to 10 min. how many ibus are you getting from the magnum and cascade?

also bitterness can be based on minerals as well. is it hop bitterness or mineral?
I get mineral bitterness here in coastal Georgia. The water is okay for browns but really bitter for IPAs. After and Wards Labs water test, I went to distilled water for hoppy brews and it has worked well. Also, I add more hops after shutoff rather than during the boil. I found Cascade, Centennial, and Willamette to be particularly bitter if used in the boil. FYI - I use mostly DME and do use tap water to steep grains. Only 7 gr of Magnum in 5.5 gallons works for me.
 
Remember that Mastoras007 is in Greece. Assumptions valid for the USA may not apply.

But yes, green (fresh) beer needs a little time to mature. And I’m so glad his beer came out great!
 
I get mineral bitterness here in coastal Georgia. The water is okay for browns but really bitter for IPAs. After and Wards Labs water test, I went to distilled water for hoppy brews and it has worked well. Also, I add more hops after shutoff rather than during the boil. I found Cascade, Centennial, and Willamette to be particularly bitter if used in the boil. FYI - I use mostly DME and do use tap water to steep grains. Only 7 gr of Magnum in 5.5 gallons works for me.
You should come hang out on tybee sometime!

I use tybee water.... it's safe for drinking I guess??
 
2;1 sulfate to chloride is good the chlorine needs to be removed and maybe adjust for Ph other than that it should be fine for most beers and shouldn't cause your aftertaste
His carbon filters should do most of the work on the chlorine.

I use phosphoric or lactic acid for water adjustments. I don't trust the calculator because my setup is wonky, but I have been tracking my mash ph for the last few months(about 15+ brews) so I should be able to start getting close without actually having to measure ph on batches that are similar to previous!
 

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