Well, you can definitely screw it up by hand too! But you are "smarter" than the auto calculator, which has a set of data points to match, which can be unobtainable. By just doing a tiny bit of thinking (why am I adding alkalinity and then acid to neutralize that?), and a tiny bit of reading on the subject, a brewer can make great decisions for brewing water, far better than any autocalculator can.
Really, think of those additions as seasonings- after all they are salts. Just like when you make spaghetti sauce, you can make it without any seasoning at all (like using distilled water in brewing). It won't be bad, just bland maybe. But adding a little onion, garlic, salt, you can get a great sauce. Consider that as using reverse osmosis or distilled water, with a few additions like calcium chloride and gypsum.
The additions aren't magic- but they can and do have a flavor impact, although subtle in small amounts. They can also affect the mash pH.
For some simple explanations of what these salts do (and don't do), we have a three part article on Brewing Water for Beginners that you may find helpful:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/2017/11/19/brewing-water-basics-part-1/
https://www.brewersfriend.com/2017/11/19/brewing-water-basics-part-2/
https://www.brewersfriend.com/2018/02/13/brewing-water-basics-putting-it-all-together/
I'm not totally opposed to adding an auto help calculator to Brewer's Friend, as long as it's one that actually works. Too many newer brewers rely on unrealistic calculations and the beer is not better for it. Most often, "less is more" works for all beers. For special cases, like a big IPA where you want a super firm bitterness, more sulfate is a great idea. But really, I can only think of a couple cases where large additions to RO water make that much of a difference in the final beer.