Amateur

Ozarks Mountain Brew said:
I was looking to find someone that actually uses these and came across this video, near the end you see them and the hardware they added

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OCXlCE-dng
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That video was brilliant, it debunked some of the myth and explained a lot of the processes, it's got me thinking about stepping up to all grain! Maybe BIAB first! and I didn't even see the hardware you were talking about??
 
I brew exactly like that, even cooling wise just in a slightly smaller scale
 
BIAB is all grain. But I know where you're coming from. The manager at my LHBS looks down his nose at me because I do BIAB. I don't see using a 3 vessel system as "stepping up" either. Give a recipe to 5 or 10 brewers who use the 3 vessel set up. Give me the same recipe. You won't be able to tell which beer is mine. If extract is what you want to use in your recipes, then do it! Great beer can be made any way you go. Same goes with bad beer.
 
Agreed.

And to one extent or another, you have to adapt to fit your brewing space and limitations. That's where biab and Id assume partial mashes came from

You're going to brew differently than the next person, even on the same setup. It's really useful to either brew in front of someone else and sort of guide them through the steps, or to be someone else's assistant and let them lead the brew day. I bet you'd both learn a lot either way
 
BIAB is a really flexible method. I started with a small pot and simple "wet" mash and dunk sparge for my first all-grain batches and made really good beer. Using the same basic stuff, I've gone to bigger pot, bigger batch, stepped infusion and using my bottling bucket as a lauter tun so that I'm mimicking a 3 vessel system with much, much less equipment.
I'm convinced that the beer I'm making this way is as good as I could produce with a much more elaborate system. If you can control temperature and have vessels big enough to accommodate your grist, how you get water and wort moved from one stage to the next isn't critical to the process. Granted it would be handier to simply turn valves and have wort flow from start to finish without lifting a heavy, wet bag of grain and making a mess, but the result is quite good. ;)
 
yes bib is good Ive used that method for 4 or 5 years just out grew it and needed bigger batches for family events, I still have my BIB rig and its fully functional just in case, but you guys are missing the point of what we were taking about but thats ok, ;) carry on
 
Rodbrew70 said:
Ozarks Mountain Brew said:
I was looking to find someone that actually uses these and came across this video, near the end you see them and the hardware they added

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OCXlCE-dng
Click to expand...

That video was brilliant, it debunked some of the myth and explained a lot of the processes, it's got me thinking about stepping up to all grain! Maybe BIAB first! and I didn't even see the hardware you were talking about??
Click to expand...

Ive seen these adapters online somewhere the go from a plastic compression fitting to 2" or 1.5" stainless tube, this one uses a try clover adapter 2" elbow to a butterfly valve
 

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Nosybear said:
There's this one:

https://www.ntotank.com/7gallon-aceroto ... k-x1138427

Their page suggests the height of this guy with stand is 33 inches - should fit in the fridge! The ten gallon version says it's 37 inches high. May need to measure the fridge this evening....
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this one is $28 shipping has no stand for that price and the adapter with it
 
I'm totally loving the feedback, you guys are unreal! I am considering my first step into BIAB but after spending the weekend drinking an amazing improving apple cider, an ale, and lager brewed extraction style I think I'll hold off for a bit (shed room is an issue ATM) but your suggestions are all taken on board, temperature and secondary conditioning ect...! All good info! Thanks heaps again for ALL your input!!
ps went to work this morn with a hangover thanks to my brews!! double thumbs up
 
I've read in several articles that the active fermentation process generates heat. The amount of heat generated can be anywhere from 5 to 10 degrees. I'm not a physics scientist by no means, but my basic physics knowledge and some research I've done indicates 8 BTUs is needed to change the temperature 1 degree per gallon of water. Active yeast generates 543kw of energy of heat, which is 3412 BTUs. Many other things come into play like elevation, thermodynamics of the wort, etc. What I learned after all this research is to start my fermenting temp at the low end of yeast temperature range and "shoot" for my temp to be at the optimal yeast during the active process. Until I learned this, I was setting fermentation temps at the optimal range in my fermentation Chamber (converted fridge w/ temp control) and found that my carboy temps were higher and outside of the yeast temperature range, which cause some off flavors.
 
If you use a thermowell to house the thermoprobe, you can ignore generated heat. The beer will take care of that itself. I have a rubber carboy cap that has two ports on it. One is for the air lock, and one is for my well, which is just a pinched off (and soldered) copper tube, extending down into the fermenting wort. The thermoprobe from the temperature controller goes inside of it. That way the temperature of the beer itself controls the heating and cooling.
 
my 3 basics of making beer are clean water, good sanitation and control your fermentation temps and keep them low, for great beer you should master those things for any type of brewing
 
Keeping low temp is not a problem for me, my latest brew started at 18c and has actually dropped 3c, lucky me I guess! When summer hits and the ambient temp rises I will look into a swamp cooler! At the moment looking forward to seeing how the low brew temp beers taste!
 
Nosybear said:
I'd love to find some small, affordable conical fermentors, say in the 8 gallon range. I've seen a few on the Internet but never had the impulse to buy one. Currently my primary fermentor is an 8-gallon Speidel plastic jug, I have a valve at the bottom but still have to tilt it to get the last bit of beer out, I've put a probe for the Inkbird temperature controller through the top so I can measure the fermentation temperature of my beer directly (it's improved the quality of my brews vastly). But I'd like to move to conicals, not the overpriced FastFerment types, just some good old utilitarian plastic conical fermentors.
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this would be the least expensive way to do what Im thinking about, of course it would be smaller than this and slightly different design but you get the idea
 

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I've been looking into those....
 
Im thinking of buying a stand up freezer from craigslist then putting a temp control on it just for one of these, hoping to get a 15 gallon in one but not sure its possible, then park it right next to my rig and run the hose right in to it from my chiller system
 
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