Hops
Amount
|
Variety
|
Cost
|
Type
|
AA
|
Use
|
Time
|
IBU
|
Bill %
|
1 oz |
Amarillo1 oz Amarillo Hops |
|
Leaf/Whole |
10.4 |
First Wort
|
0 min |
|
14.3% |
0.50 oz |
Warrior0.5 oz Warrior Hops |
|
Pellet |
16.7 |
Boil
|
60 min |
|
7.1% |
0.50 oz |
Simcoe0.5 oz Simcoe Hops |
|
Pellet |
12.2 |
Boil
|
50 min |
|
7.1% |
0.50 oz |
Warrior0.5 oz Warrior Hops |
|
Pellet |
16.7 |
Boil
|
40 min |
|
7.1% |
0.50 oz |
Simcoe0.5 oz Simcoe Hops |
|
Pellet |
12.2 |
Boil
|
30 min |
|
7.1% |
0.50 oz |
Amarillo0.5 oz Amarillo Hops |
|
Pellet |
9.3 |
Boil
|
20 min |
|
7.1% |
0.50 oz |
Amarillo0.5 oz Amarillo Hops |
|
Pellet |
9.3 |
Aroma
|
10 min |
|
7.1% |
1 oz |
Amarillo1 oz Amarillo Hops |
|
Pellet |
9.3 |
Aroma
|
1 min |
|
14.3% |
2 oz |
Amarillo2 oz Amarillo Hops |
|
Leaf/Whole |
10.4 |
Dry Hop
|
7 days |
|
28.6% |
7 oz
/ $ 0.00
|
Mash Guidelines
Amount
|
Description
|
Type
|
Start Temp
|
Target Temp
|
Time
|
22 |
Conversion Rest |
Infusion |
-- |
150 °F |
60 min |
18 |
Mash-out/Sparge |
Fly Sparge |
-- |
168 °F |
60 min |
Other Ingredients
Amount
|
Name
|
Cost
|
Type
|
Use
|
Time
|
1 tsp |
Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum)
|
|
Water Agt |
Mash |
0 min. |
2 tsp |
Calcium Chloride
|
|
Water Agt |
Mash |
0 min. |
1.50 tsp |
Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt)
|
|
Water Agt |
Mash |
0 min. |
1 each |
Whirlfloc Tablet
|
|
Fining |
Boil |
10 min. |
1 each |
Clarity Ferm 5ml vial
|
|
Fining |
Primary |
0 min. |
Target Water Profile
Custom
Ca+2 |
Mg+2 |
Na+ |
Cl- |
SO4-2 |
HCO3- |
120 |
25 |
10 |
60 |
325 |
15 |
Start with Nestle Pure-Life bottled water. Add water salts to 10 gallons. After grain absorption, boil, and dead space loss, will end up with 7.5 gallons in the brew pot. This allows for 1.5 gallons of boil loss and cooling volume loss which I find is pretty close to reality for the most part. |
Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator
|
Notes
The Basics:
I developed this recipe for a 6 gallon batch knowing that 1/2 a gallon will be left in the pot to avoid as much trub as possible. That said you will be fermenting 5.5 gallons.
All rest temperatures are in the tun, not strike water. You will need to calculate your strike water based on your grain temperature and type of mash tun you are using.
I use yeast starters in all of my recipes with what I think are excellent results. For my starters I compose the starter wort to closely approximate the sugar profile of the target batch. This helps the yeast develop the best cell membranes to ferment the final wort with little to no adjustment. I typically use a 1 quart starter for gravities 60 and above, and half quart for gravities below 60. I allow the starter to ferment a full 3 days to allow glycogen reserve buildup and settling. Then I pour out the first little bit of starter, pour the middle bit into a glass, then pour out the rest leaving mostly only the yeast cake. Then I smell and taste the bit in the glass to ensure there are no infections lurking. Sanitation is paramount.
The Beer:
I've brewed this batch a number of times. It is not at the high end of the Imperial/Double IPA spectrum, but it gives the drinker all the in-your-face hop aroma and flavor one could want, backed by balanced malt flavor and body. The Warrior hops are the cleanest high alpha hops I've found. Using them in the FWH and the boil set the foundation of the hop character of this beer. And while the remaining additions are all Centennial hop additions, because of the times and the fact that Centennial is already a complex hop, you get all the complexity you need. If you want to swap out for the other American "C's" (Citra, Crystal, Cascade, etc...) all of them will work well, but give this a go first.
Give this bad boy 10 days in the primary at 64-65 degrees, then rack to a secondary. Let the beer condition for 2 more weeks in the secondary, then add 1 oz. each of Centennial & Willamette whole hops for 1 additional week of conditioning with dry hops. As an alternative to 2 ounces of whole hops in the secondary, you can leach/rinse the Willamette hops with a small amount of boiled water or even better a boiled bottle or 2 of beer. I use this approach to add 1/4 ounce of Polyclar 10 with the boiled beer.
Last Updated and Sharing
- Public: Yup, Shared
- Last Updated: 2017-03-13 02:11 UTC
For quick copying and pasting to a text based forum or email.
Click the Download as HTML file button below.
Recipe costs can be adjusted by changing the batch size. They won't be saved but will give you an idea of costs if your final yield was different.
|
Cost $ |
Cost % |
Fermentables |
$ |
|
Steeping Grains (Extract Only) |
$ |
|
Hops |
$ |
|
Yeast |
$ |
|
Other |
$ |
|
Cost Per Barrel |
$ 0.00 |
|
Cost Per Pint |
$ 0.00 |
|
Total Cost |
$ 0.00 |
|
Discussion about this recipe:
Back To Top