Fermentation Dry Hop @ 70% attenuation (1.027)
Traditional Dry Hop after fermentation is complete.
Fermentation temp: 68F
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Last Updated: 2020-11-30 18:49 UTC
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NEW Water Requirements:
Avg. Perfect Northeast IPA (NEIPA)
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Water Requirements:
Avg. Perfect Northeast IPA (NEIPA)
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Recipe Cost
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Recipe costs can be adjusted by changing the batch size. They won't be saved but will give you an idea of costs if your final yield was different.
acadiansuds • 07/25/2017 at 04:26pm Should Fermentation Dry Hop (7 days Dry Hop) happen in primary or secondary fermenter?
kcq101 • 07/25/2017 at 06:30pm Trick Question?? - The intent of the "fermentation" dry hop is to allow for the supposed benefits of biotransformation that occur when the hops are added in the presence of the active yeast. As such, this round of dry hopping should certainly be added to the primary midway through fermentation.
Personally, I recommend adding both sets of dry hops to the primary fermenter. No need to secondary. Though, if you are kegging, you could consider adding the second round of dry hops in the keg.
Good luck and happy brewing! Let us know how it turns out!
rbkraz • 07/26/2017 at 11:51am Since NE style ferments fast, what is the general turn around time on kegging/drinking?
Assuming I move to the seconadary and dry hop again for say 3 days.....can I just keg it and put it on co2 for a day or two and start consuming?
kcq101 • 07/27/2017 at 03:33pm rbkraz - You can go from grain-to-glass in close to 10 days if your pitching enough healthy yeast and the ferm. temp is sufficient. Add the first round of dry hops on Day 3 of fermentation, add the second round on Day 6, rack to the keg on Day 8 and force carb. through Day 10. This is somewhat extreme, but doable. The carbonation won't be 100%. So, the beer will benefit from additional time in the keg.
It would be my strong recommendation to not secondary this beer, especially if you are eventually kegging it. Clarity certainly isn't where this beer shines. And the additional 3 days or so sitting on the yeast and initial dry hop matter shouldn't negatively impact the beer. O2 is this beer's worst enemy. So the transfer to a secondary and, then, to the keg, adds a step that I suggest avoiding. IMO, the only negative consequence to skipping the secondary is that you might transfer more hop material and yeast to when racking directly to the keg. But that should all drop to the bottom of the keg as it chills and carbonates, only to be purged when you pour you first pint or two. Just my two cents...
Good luck and happy brewing! Let us know how it turns out!
kcq101 • 07/27/2017 at 03:34pm rbkraz - You can go from grain-to-glass in close to 10 days if your pitching enough healthy yeast and the ferm. temp is sufficient. Add the first round of dry hops on Day 3 of fermentation, add the second round on Day 6, rack to the keg on Day 8 and force carb. through Day 10. This is somewhat extreme, but doable. The carbonation won't be 100%. So, the beer will benefit from additional time in the keg.
It would be my strong recommendation to not secondary this beer, especially if you are eventually kegging it. Clarity certainly isn't where this beer shines. And the additional 3 days or so sitting on the yeast and initial dry hop matter shouldn't negatively impact the beer. O2 is this beer's worst enemy. So the transfer to a secondary and, then, to the keg, adds a step that I suggest avoiding. IMO, the only negative consequence to skipping the secondary is that you might transfer more hop material and yeast to when racking directly to the keg. But that should all drop to the bottom of the keg as it chills and carbonates, only to be purged when you pour you first pint or two. Just my two cents...
Good luck and happy brewing! Let us know how it turns out!
MoDouglas • 08/07/2017 at 04:43pm Thanks for the recipe. I'm trying to brew as close to this as I can but I'm brewing in South America and my supplies are very limited. My big issue here is the Honey Malt. The closest I can find is not close at all, like a Cara Ruby or I can get a Crystal but it's the 60L. Could I just skip this ingredient all together or do you have any other suggestions? I've looked up some alternatives and the suggestions that come up I also can't get.
kcq101 • 08/07/2017 at 10:31pm MoDouglas - I think you are fine to just skip it altogether and dial up the 2-row to 80% (i.e., 11 lbs. for this batch size) to make up for the loss in points. I tend to shy away from anything Crystal/Cara in these types of hoppy beers. The resulting beer will be just a tad lighter in color. So, if you really wanted to, you could consider small amounts of Munich or Victory to fill the gap. But the hops, yeast and water profile are what make this beer shine. So, I'd just say keep it simple and skip it.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out! Very cool to know this beer is being brewed in South America!
nickwbenson • 08/30/2017 at 04:46pm I normally use a starting mash thickness of 1.5 qt/lb or even 2 qt/lb, just because larger sparges are difficult in my kitchen setup. What adjustments (if any) do you think I should make if I do decrease the mash thickness? Or should I try to stick religiously to the 1.25 qt/lb thickness on this one? Thanks!
BrewemSmokem • 09/12/2017 at 05:46pm So I just added my fermentation hop addition and should be ready to taste sometime late next week depending on if I force carb it, but this is a great recipe. I see a lot of mid-low floculating yeasts on these other recipes and I sometimes wonder if they understand what a ne ipa is really supposed to be, but bravo for the good recipe, based on the smell I'm going to really like this one so thanks!
Rpilliod • 09/15/2017 at 06:47pm Did the water start out as RO then added the salts?
kcq101 • 09/19/2017 at 02:40pm @nickwbenson - Sorry for the delayed response. Was out of the country. Hopefully you just stuck to your normal process given your setup. I've never mashed above 1.5 qt/lb. But I'd just try to keep it simple for you.
@Rpilliod - No, this does not assume RO water. Rather the water adjustments are in addition to my tap water profile. I'll update the recipe to make this clear. Sorry for the confusion!
kcq101 • 09/19/2017 at 02:47pm @BrewemSmokem and @acadiansuds - Cheers! Thanks for the feedback.
The credit is due to all the forum members that participated on putting this recipe together last year in the Beer Advocate homebrew forum, led by VikeMan. It was a fun internet collaboration that resulted in a great recipe. I've stuck with this recipe as a foundation for this style of beer and have had a lot of fun/success subbing and tweaking ingredients to make some really good variants.
mikehoover • 10/04/2017 at 10:58am
mikehoover • 10/04/2017 at 11:02am
5 of 5
Thanks for the recipe! It has been my starting point for the NEIPA I have in the fermenter right now. I didn't measure gravity to see where attenuation is and pitched the first dry hops after krausening was well under way (37 hours). Just wondering what would happen if they were pitched at say 25% or 50% attenuation versus the recommended 70% attenuation. Thanks a bunch!
kcq101 • 10/04/2017 at 07:19pm @mikehoover - I wouldn't be too concerned about it as it is simply a rule-of-thumb to distinguish between the "fermentation/biotransformation dry hop" and the "standard dry hop" typically added post fermentation. If pitched "too early" (i.e., 25-50%) you may lose out on some hop aroma that is being pushed out via CO2. However, you might gain on the supposed biotransformation benefits. On the other hand, if pitched "too late" you may preserve more hop aroma, but lose on some of the supposed benefits of the hop/yeast biotransformation interactions.
Good luck and looking forward to any feedback you might want to provide!
mikehoover • 10/25/2017 at 05:39pm Awesome recipe! My batch turned out just great. Shared it with a bunch of folks. Everybody that tried it loved it. One I will definitely brew again soon! Keg is already empty. Thanks for a great recipe!
rel • 10/26/2017 at 08:24pm How is the utilization of the hop calculated during whirpool? I put the same 1.5 oz Galaxy Pellet 15.6 Whirlpool at 170 °F 15 min but get 29 IBU. Changing the temp doesn't seem to change the calculation.
Pikk • 10/28/2017 at 09:54am When you specify to add the hops at Whirlpool, 170 °F for 15 minutes, does that mean that I should halt the cool down and add the hops at 170 °F and wait 15 minutes before cooling further down, or does it mean that I should add the hops and continue cooling the wort down for 15 minutes?
Pikk • 10/28/2017 at 10:00am Do you halt the cool down during the 15 minutes whirlpool and then continue cooling after 15 minutes?
Pikk • 10/28/2017 at 10:01am Sorry I thought my first question somehow got lost
mlatner • 10/29/2017 at 05:14pm Pitched yeast on this recipe last night! Started getting a little activity after about 5 hours of pitching. About 16 hours in now and It's a very violent fermentation. Probably add the first round of hops Tuesday morning.
mlatner • 10/29/2017 at 05:16pm I forgot to mention, for some reason I hit a higher OG. 1.072. Should it still finish about the same FG?
This recipe was FAR more bitter than any NEIPA I've tasted
kcq101 • 11/05/2017 at 08:42pm @mikehoover - Awesome to hear! Thanks for the feedback!
@rel - The default hop utilization for the Brewer's Friend whirlpool is 10%. I adjusted mine down to 4% because it seemed to be more in line with my experience. But it is far from scientific. So YMMV. In my experience the hop bitterness is very restrained from whirlpool additions made at the 150-170 F range.
@Pikk - Sorry for the delay if you have already brewed this. But the intent was for you to cool to 170 F, stop the cooling, add the whirlpool hops and gently stir here and there over the course of 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, continue to cool down to pitching temp and transfer to the fermenter.
@mlatner - It sounds like the LAIII yeast are doing their thing. This yeast comes in strong and finishes the job pretty quickly, in my experience. And it is very forgiving if you don't have the ability to control ferm. temps. The 1.072 is a bit higher than I tend to start with. I don't know if your efficiency was well below 70% and/or your wort volume was lesser due to boil off, etc., but your beer should be fine. You may finish a little bit higher in the .14 - .16 range. But just rely on your hydrometer to tell you when the yeast are done. Let me know how it turns out!
@danlatimer - I'm sorry for your disappointment. Not sure if you are kegging or bottling. But I will say that given the significance of the hop bill, a lot of hop matter falls to the bottom of the keg. So, your first few pints could have a higher concentration of this material which contributes to a pronounced bitterness. This bitterness is a bit different from your normal IPA bitterness and tends to hit the back of the throat. Hopefully with a little more cold conditioning, time, and pints poured, your beer comes around a bit. If so, please let me know. I hope it works out!
jwalkermed • 11/17/2017 at 03:37pm Q: Why do you have your hop utilization mult set @ 88%
Roque • 11/29/2017 at 01:37am
5 of 5
mikehoover • 12/01/2017 at 04:47pm kcq101, I have another batch going into the keg in a couple of days. I am tempted to toss yet another batch of wort onto the mass of hops and yeast left in the fermenter. Any thoughts on the outcome?
Swapped amarillo in for galaxy and safale s04 in for the wyeast 1318. I was very happy with the result! Thanks for the recipe!
miggy_smalls • 01/04/2018 at 01:16pm quick question. Is there no bittering hop at the beginning of the boil? Just the 2 additions at the last 10 minutes and then the remaining additions?
kcq101 • 01/04/2018 at 02:59pm @miggy_smalls - Yes, that is correct. There is no traditional "bittering" addition at the beginning of the boil. Given the beer style (lower bitterness than traditional IPAs), the significance of the late hop quantities, and the extended contact time of the hops post-boil in the whirlpool, there is no need for something at the beginning of the boil. Just add the hops with 10 minutes remaining in the boil and, then, once you have cooled your wort down to ~170 F after the boil.
If you might want to add something at the beginning of the boil to up the bitterness a bit, I'd suggest adding ~.25 oz of something like Columbus/CTZ as a first wort hop (pre-boil) which I've done with this base recipe before and it's given me good results. But the recipe, as is, is fine on its own.
I hope it turns out to your liking! Please provide some feedback if you end up brewing it!
kcq101 • 01/04/2018 at 03:04pm @miggy_smalls - Yes, that is correct. There is no traditional "bittering" addition at the beginning of the boil. Given the beer style (lower bitterness than traditional IPAs), the significance of the late hop quantities, and the extended contact time of the hops post-boil in the whirlpool, there is no need for something at the beginning of the boil. Just add the hops with 10 minutes remaining in the boil and, then, once you have cooled your wort down to ~170 F after the boil.
If you might want to add something at the beginning of the boil to up the bitterness a bit, I'd suggest adding ~.25 oz of something like Columbus/CTZ as a first wort hop (pre-boil) which I've done with this base recipe before and it's given me good results. But the recipe, as is, is fine on its own.
I hope it turns out to your liking! Please provide some feedback if you end up brewing it!
Brewdreaux • 01/04/2018 at 10:08pm What was the ph of your water when you started. Mine is 7.5 and didn't want to add the acid malt if it wasn't necessary.
miggy_smalls • 01/05/2018 at 01:15pm ^ Plus I was also wondering what was your base water chemistry was before adding the salts and acids
This recipe finally got me the results I've been looking for. Brew to keg in 9 days. I fermented under pressure and did my 2nd dry hop in the keg. Beer was closed transferred under pressure from FV to keg with so no oxygen was let in. It tastes perfect and very similar to what I've been driving a good distance to get cans of. Mosaic, Citra, and Galaxy shine in this one. I'm going to be making another one very soon. Thanks to OP for sharing this one!
tally whacker • 01/28/2018 at 10:49pm Why a 60 minute boil? I always do them but if you aren't doing a 60m addition why not cut the boil down to 30 minutes?
I brewed this in a 1 gallon batch version and it turned out great. A few errors on my own end and no fault of the recipe but still was very tasty
johnnyluck87 • 02/20/2018 at 07:38pm I'm about to start this brew today but have a couple questions about the dry-hopping process. I put the wort in the fermenter, then add the (7 day) hops addition a couple days after that? Then after 7 days add the (3 day) hops and bottle after the 3 days? Or do I wait a couple days into fermentation, add the (7 day) hops, then 4 days later add the (3 day) hops then bottle after 3 days? Any help or opinions here would be helpful. Thanks.
robjamfea • 06/08/2018 at 10:44am Im a complete beginner so apologies for the potentially stupid question....
How do you know how much mash and sparge water to use??
robjamfea • 06/08/2018 at 10:51am forget my question -ive just found the water requirements in tools!!
Great recipe, thanks! Used Omega Tropical IPA yeast instead and it turned out great, color is like on those pictures on the internet, highly recommend.
Morell • 08/20/2018 at 04:06pm Does anyone have experience with bottling this beer and carbonating it naturally in the bottle? How much priming sugar (if any) should I use?
Frigorifix • 09/03/2018 at 06:08pm Hi there, Would you remove the 1st DH or just leave it in the fermenter and just add the 2nd DH?
Really nice beer, brewing a second batch today. Thanks for sharing
MisfitBrewing • 09/15/2018 at 04:04pm Has anyone tried this in a BIAB method? Would one have to adjust the Starting mash thickness?
FernandoMirandax • 10/07/2018 at 01:42pm Maybe the more experienced brewers might help me... I followed the recipe exactly how it is and the beer turned out too alcoholic. Strong taste of alcohol. But I indeed made only one change. I used the yeast White Labs - Burlington Ale Yeast WLP095. Actually 2 amounts. Anyone could say that this was the reason? Thanks!
Bibbs • 10/30/2018 at 07:03pm Has anyone made this with flaked wheat instead of malted wheat? Pros and cons to doing that?
This did not turn out for me. I followed the recipe exactly. I got a brown color instead of a bright orange. The smell and taste are just slightly buttery. It's not a bad beer, but definitely did not turn out how it was supposed to. Extremely expensive recipe and it feels like the hops mostly went to waste.
Hoppist • 12/04/2018 at 12:07am @FernandoMirandax sounds like you got some fusels. It happens in unhealthy fermentations, or if you ferment at a too high for the yeast temperature.
@bibbs I feel as malted wheat gives more body to beer than flakes. Feel free to experiment though.
@Heavy Metal Lawyer seems as your experience is the perfect example of oxidation. Next time try to avoid O2 at all costs. Try to keg instead of bottling, don't move to secondary, don't open the bucket for no reason. If you have to bottle purge your bottles and headspace or fill them to the very very top. You'll notice a night and day difference.
Brewed this using the appropriate water adjustments for my water, a 30 minute boil, no fining, and a very cool whirlpool (160°) due to very cold ground water. Used Omega OYL-200 and fermented at 80. Finished at 1.014 in a week. Kegged it and poured the next day. It's like being beaten to a happy, happy death with tropical fruit.
Kees77 • 02/16/2019 at 10:21pm It seems like I have 1 gallon of hops in my fermentor. Not much of a break. Is this normal?
TigerDave • 03/04/2019 at 05:48pm Oops! Just brewed this yesterday and thought "7 Days" meant add hops immediately when racking to fermenter and let sit for the first 7 days. Hope this doesn't screw anything up!
Yames • 03/14/2019 at 12:46am I also have a question regarding the hop addition schedule, what does 7 days and 3 days mean? I would assume if the 3 days was first you would add it on day 3, but this schedule says 7 days first and then 3 days... can anyone explain this?
ddobrovolskyi • 04/15/2019 at 01:20pm Hi, what would you recommend as Honey Malt substitute? Thanks!
Ted Armstrong • 05/31/2019 at 01:40pm @Yames read dry hop additions like: "7 days before packaging, add these hops." And "3 days before packaging, add those hops"
Martijn02 • 10/15/2019 at 09:45pm I don't own a keg and always bottle my beers, adding 0.25oz sugar for refermentation. Never made a NEIPA tough. Would be any different with this recipe?
Assuming I move to the seconadary and dry hop again for say 3 days.....can I just keg it and put it on co2 for a day or two and start consuming?
CNich • 01/27/2020 at 03:39pm Brewed this yesterday and it turned out looking like a standard IPA with no haze. I did add the Irish moss and now I wonder if I shouldn’t have. Also wonder if I should cut my losses and skip all the dry hopping.
Calebv • 02/13/2020 at 08:19pm What kind of wheat was used in this recipe and from where?
Casey Quinif • 04/01/2020 at 08:56pm How many days after the 7th day DH can you keg it?
Zymurgist12 • 04/16/2020 at 08:03pm All this will be my first attempt at a NE IPA and am super-excited as this is by far my favorite style of beer. One quick question so I am clear.....the recipe lists the boil additions in order of time elapsed as are the whirlpool additions. Then the dry hop additions start with the 7 day and then go to the 3 day. Am I correct in assuming the 3 day should come first? Thanks in advance for answering.
I'm new to brewing so I made a 1 gallon version of this recipe to try my hand at the NEIPA. OG was 1.04 to start and finished at 1.0, so I ended up with a session version. However, it came out super smooth, hazy, and juicy. Very pleased. I wrote up a step-by-step protocol that I'm happy to share for any newbies out there like me.
Just brewed this recipe and it turned out great! I skipped the second dry hop addition for fear that it may create some "hop burn", but it came out super juicy and probably would've been just as good, if not better, with the second addition. I'll definitely be brewing this one again.
I spent about $83 on ingredients for this beer. Those Galaxy hops are pretty pricy in North America. Anyway, it turned out as advertised: perfect. I will probably brew this again. I live in Massachusetts and can get Trillium easily and Tree House and Bissell Brothers with some effort. My brew of this beer is maybe not quite as good as those, but it's getting there, which is to say I'm very happy with it.
DeeLC • 11/28/2020 at 09:37pm In the requirements you a talking about phosphoric acid, and in the comments about lactic acid. Do i need both?
kcq101 • 11/30/2020 at 07:08pm @DeeLC - Thanks for the question/call-out. Sorry for the confusion. No, you do not need both. I updated the ingredients to properly reflect the intended Lactic Acid rather than Phosphoric Acid.
I have not used phosphoric acid to adjust pH. But you could use this instead. You'll just need to employ a water profile calculator to determine how much to use in order to achieve the intended mash pH of 5.3.
There are some claims that the use of lactic acid vs. the use of phosphoric acid have differing impacts on the taste of the beer. But I only have experience with lactic acid and have been pleased with the results as far as I can tell.
Micah • 12/02/2020 at 05:17pm I am in the process of making this right now and covid has completely removed my ability to taste or smell. It will be ready to keg in 3 days and I am soooo disappointed! I was really looking forward to this! Guess I'll be making it again. Thanks for the great recipe!
Ccorn • 12/14/2020 at 04:10am Brewing this tomorrow! Only Done a couple NEIPAs and do not know my water profile. Do you recommend doing the additions (gypsum, calcium chloride and lactic acid) anyway?
Thanks for the recipe, Brewed this at the beginning of Dec . Only change i made was that i didn't have any galaxy hops on hand so i doubled up on the Citra additions. Did my first dry hop after six days then the second 5 days later and then bottled 2 days after that. Great taste, nice and hoppy with just the right amount of bitterness. Will definitely be making this again real soon.
Great recipe! I did it more than 3 times, and it always give me a nice hazy IPA. I do however secondary for the second round of dry hops and then I usually add some mango pulp. I think you are right about O2 is the biggest enemy of this beer, but given the huge amount of hops in it I think it protects it from getting infected with some other bacteria.
hundel • 02/23/2021 at 06:56pm As others have asked, are people really using Irish Moss in NEIPAs? It works against everything that the inventors of NEIPA set out to do.
Luke.Geiger71 • 09/17/2021 at 09:45pm We love this beer! Brewed it 3 times so far. The only change we made, is reducing the bittering hops by 1/3. It cost about $75 dollars for a full batch in Richmond, and worth every penny! I also used a little different water profile to accommodate city water; but otherwise well worth it!
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