HFS - belgian dark sour

Brew 8 gallons of Abbey style Dark Strong/Dubbel, sour 5 gal and ferment 3 gal in small carboy. Use Belgian Ardennes from golden strong.

• Use dregs from sours
  
• oud bruin for a more malt foreward beer
  
• LACTOBACILLUS BUCHNERI - also used for sour browns, moderate acidity
  
• mash in around 153, allow to drop a bit as wort is recycled with pump. Add some hot water if it starts to get low
  
  
  after drinking the Ursula angel of odd I think I want to make sure I mash at or above 152 to provide some body so it isn't so thin after the souring takes place. Keep good amount of munich in recipe to give body.
  
• After tasting the golden strong (4wks) - 150-152 is a good mash temp
  
• Too much body will not be desirable.
  
• about 7.5% would be good
  
  Pitch in dregs of ursula the odd and rodenbach. should probably get something from crooked stave to get a reliable brett source. Other bacteria unknown.
  
  http://allaboutbeer.com/brewing-with-sugar/
  
  https://growlermag.com/homebrew-recipe-provisional-sour-belgian-brown/
  
  http://jesterkingbrewery.com/jester-king-homebrew-recipes-part-ii
  
  http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=147815
  
  https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/6-tips-brew-sour-beers-mad-fermentationist/
  
  http://sourbeerblog.com/the-sour-beer-brewday/
  
  http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/566877/surly-pentagram
  
  One pitfall to watch for is the level of dissolved CO2 in the beer at bottling. After a long period of time in secondary, particularly when oak is involved because it provides nucleation sites, the beer can be completely flat. Normal priming sugar calculations assume a certain amount of residual carbonation based on the temperature of the beer, without this carbonation the beer will seem flat even after the yeast consume all the priming sugar. To remedy this you can give the beer a small feeding (2-3 oz) with table/corn sugar a week or so before bottling or additional priming sugar at bottling.
  https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2008/06/all-about-brettanomyces.html
  
  Yep, I tried it with decent results. Just let the cubes soak for a few weeks to make sure that the microbes get down into the wood, then dry on a rack in a cool/dry place (I’d avoid direct sunlight and really hot temperatures so it is gentler on the microbes). Make sure you get them fully dried before storage or you risk mold growth.
  
  Al (of East Coast Yeast fame) used wood cubes that he drilled holes in to increase the surface area, Vinnie (or Russian River fame) did something similar with oak chips. The advantage is that it freezes the microbe population (you don’t have to worry about one microbe outcompeting the rest) and doesn’t require regular feedings, but I’m not sure how quickly the different strains die off.
  
• use remaining oak cubes to store bacteria, boil before inoculating to reduce oak intensity and sanitize
  
• consider using cubes in secondary of other beers to finish
  -> drop a few final gravity points and crisp them up, continue developing depth of flavor, particularly for higher gravity beers that should be lighter in body
  
  
  http://sourbeerblog.com/fundamentals-of-sour-beer-fermentation/