Note: Due to limitations in the ability to test gravity while yeast is active, the addition of honey to fermenter will affect the OG, so strength of beer will be stronger than the estimated 8.13% ABV.

2 days before brewing, make starter (2 cans yeast starter wort, 2 cans water, 1 packet yeast). Spin 24 to 48 hours. Crash in fridge.

Brew Day – Step 1
A) Rack liquid off starter.
B) Heat strike water. Once strike water is at 158F, stir in mash stabilizer, water agents, grains. Mash for 1 hour. Stir every 15-20 minutes.
C) While mashing heat the sparge/lauter water.
D) Mash additions:
1) At 15 min, add Kent Golding Hops and Irish Moss.
2) At 10 min, add 1 tsp yeast nutrient
3) At 3 min, add 5lb honey.
E) Turn heat off at end of boil.

Brew Day – Step 2
F) Check conversion of starch to sugar — place a small amount of grain free wort on a white plate or bowl and add one drop of Tincture of Iodine to the wort on the plate. If it quickly disappears or stays/remains red, you are ready to move on.
If the iodine turns black, starch is still present, return the lid and run a few tests: Calibrate your thermometer. Recheck the temperature of the mash. If both are accurate, do another iodine test every 20 minutes until conversion is complete.
G) Raise the temperature of mash to mash out at 170 °F.
H) Vorlauf
1) Very slowly drain and recirculate mash water back into mash tun, not directly on grains until wort clears. Once clear, quickly drain off all wort.
2) Add first batch of sparge water (a couple gallons will do), stir well to release sugars and let sit for a minute or so.
3) Vorlauf again. Then quickly drain wort.
4) Add batch sparge to 5 gallons. Stir well. Let sit.
5) Vorlauf again. Then quickly drain remaining wort into boil kettle.

Brew Day – Step 3
I) Add sparge water to 6.5 gallon mark. Add Fuggle hops and boil for 60 min.
J) While boiling, gently warm 1.5 lb honey to make a bit thinner, allow to cool to 70F.
K) Once wort has cooled to about 100F, stir until mixed well, then while filtering out sediment, cool to 66F and transfer into primary fermenter.
L) Add warmed honey and stir.
M) Add Clarity Ferm, 1/4 tsp yeast energizer to fermenter.
Check OG.
1) DO NOT ADD spices yet (they will be added to secondary).
N) Aerate, preferably with oxygen directly for 60 seconds.
O) Pitch yeast.
P) Best to use a blow off due to heavy ferment-ability of honey.

Day 1
Add 1/4 tsp yeast energizer and 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient.

Day 2
Add 1/4 tsp yeast energizer and 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient.

Day 3
Add 1.5 lb honey warmed to 68F, 1/4 tsp yeast energizer, and 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient.

Day 5 to Fermentation End
A) Take fermenting wort off dead yeast, racking to another vessel.
B) Rack to new vessel every 5 days.
C) Transfer to secondary, test FG, and add spices.

Age for at least 6 months, ideally 8 months, racking off to another vessel when any sediment is seen.

If you want a crystal clear braggot, remove spices and if not able to cold crash just prior to bottling, add fining agent (BioFine Clear is my choice) 2 weeks prior to bottling. May need to repeat fining agent in 4 or 5 days if not clear. Once clear, transfer to keg to force carbonate or to bottling bucket to prime.

Force carbonating - add CO2 to 14.58 psi at 68F. Then use counter pressure filler to rack braggot to bottles.

Bottle priming - Boil 1 cup of honey with 8 to 16 oz water. Add to bottom of priming bucket. Rack beer into bottling bucket. Then rack to bottles.

Best aged longterm in a cool location.

Serve room temp. Can also be served warm to enhance spiciness or cold to dampen spice notes.