Vorlauf and dark malt

[Yooper]

Why would you drain the wort to a keg, then pushing it back i to the kettle?

Because I want to sparge, and I can't lift the stupid malt pipe high enough when it's that heavy. I drained, lifted, and was ok. But next time, I'll just heat the water in the Brewzilla, pump to my old MLT for a full volume mash, then gravity drain back. Turns out that I can't do a full volume mash in the 'all in one' but the next biggest size was way too big so I'm going to use it as an HLT and boil kettle.

 

[Bigbre04]

Because I want to sparge, and I can't lift the stupid malt pipe high enough when it's that heavy. I drained, lifted, and was ok. But next time, I'll just heat the water in the Brewzilla, pump to my old MLT for a full volume mash, then gravity drain back. Turns out that I can't do a full volume mash in the 'all in one' but the next biggest size was way too big so I'm going to use it as an HLT and boil kettle.

This is the bane of my existence. I have to mash in twice because my tube really maxes out at about 85# before it gets really shitty efficiency wise. It wastes so much time!

It adds atleast 2 hours to my brew day.

 

[Yooper]

This is the bane of my existence. I have to mash in twice because my tube really maxes out at about 85# before it gets really shitty efficiency wise. It wastes so much time!

It adds atleast 2 hours to my brew day.

I am soooo sorry to hijack the thread about adding the dark malts later….

But adding to my frustration with this in the Brewzilla, by lifting the malt pipe all the way up and trying to sparge, water wort did come out of the side holes and not just the bottom, making a mess besides. So I will not sparge the way they tell us too, if I sparge at all. I love full volume mashes, and have been doing that for quite a few years so I think using my old cooler MLT (not the huge old keggle one) will be the best way for me to proceed.

 

[Donoroto]

I am soooo sorry to hijack the thread about adding the dark malts later….

But adding to my frustration with this in the Brewzilla, by lifting the malt pipe all the way up and trying to sparge, water wort did come out of the side holes and not just the bottom, making a mess besides. So I will not sparge the way they tell us too, if I sparge at all. I love full volume mashes, and have been doing that for quite a few years so I think using my old cooler MLT (not the huge old keggle one) will be the best way for me to proceed.

Side holes? My malt pipe has only screens on the bottom, the pipe itself is solid, no perforations.

Putting perforations on the side of the malt pipe, completely defeats the possibility of sparging. How dumb is that?

 

[west1m]

My Anvil has side hole . About 2 - 3 inches bottom up or so. Sparges just fine. Just don't pull it all the way out utill it is just dribbiling down the side.

 

[Donoroto]

My Anvil has side hole . About 2 - 3 inches bottom up or so. Sparges just fine. Just don't pull it all the way out utill it is just dribbiling down the side.

The brewzilla pipe sits on ‘feet’ that hold it above the vessel, with only about 2 inches not showing. Any holes higher than that would likely want to squirt wort sideways, which would be undesirable.

 

[Dave Y]

Side holes? My malt pipe has only screens on the bottom, the pipe itself is solid, no perforations.

Putting perforations on the side of the malt pipe, completely defeats the possibility of sparging. How dumb is that?

pretty dumb, if you only have 2-3 inches of grains in the malt pipe.

My Anvil has side hole . About 2 - 3 inches bottom up or so. Sparges just fine. Just don't pull it all the way out utill it is just dribbiling down the side.

Blichmann/Anvil suggested to me that in both the 10.5 and 18 models - and probably similar all in ones from other makers, the mash temp varies significantly in the middle of the malt pipe even with recirculation. Their suggestion was to raise the basket completely, let it drain, reseat, reset the grain bed by stirring - that is move the grains to even out the temp, resume mash. For sparging I raise the basket completely out, use their recirc. pump to sparge through the malt pipe.

The brewzilla pipe sits on ‘feet’ that hold it above the vessel, with only about 2 inches not showing. Any holes higher than that would likely want to squirt wort sideways, which would be undesirable.

The anvil pipe sits on feet similar to that; to lift out the 10.5 has a support ring for the grain basket that clips into the top of the vessel, the pipe has attachments on the side, so that you turn the malt pipe and seat it on top of the boil kettle. the 18 has a slightly different config, where you suspend one side of the malt pipe using clips attached to it, so lift, hook in place and there are short and tall heights.

 

[Semper Sitientum]

Blichmann/Anvil suggested to me that in both the 10.5 and 18 models - and probably similar all in ones from other makers, the mash temp varies significantly in the middle of the malt pipe even with recirculation. Their suggestion was to raise the basket completely, let it drain, reseat, reset the grain bed by stirring - that is move the grains to even out the temp, resume mash. For sparging I raise the basket completely out, use their recirc. pump to sparge through the malt

Curious as to why you would need to raise the malt pipe, drain and reset the grain bed to even out the temp. vs. just stirring while the malt pipe is submerged in the wort? Wouldn’t that break up any temp. pockets as well?

 

[Donoroto]

Curious as to why you would need to raise the malt pipe, drain and reset the grain bed to even out the temp. vs. just stirring while the malt pipe is submerged in the wort? Wouldn’t that break up any temp. pockets as well?

Depends in how well you stir.