Non-conventional red IPA hopping

[CrabbyPatty]

I have a 21 L (~5 gall) batch of Red IPA that I am in the process of planning, with an OG 1.056. I have some hops that I need to use up though, none of which are really standard according to what I've read around red IPAs.

So I'm looking for input/advice from the the forum!
My stocklist is:

• 100 g NZH-107
  
• 100 g Melba
  
• 500 g EKG
  
• 50 g Taiheke
  
• ~30 g Willamette

I was thinking of using ~40 g EKG or Melba as bittering, and then a bit more of the same in some later additions, along with the Melba, Willamette and/or Taiheke in the late stage boil. Then use the same mix as dry hops. What I've read suggests you want an IBU that at about 1:1 of the OG, another I read suggested 4 gram/L of word. What are your thoughts/advice on a hop schedule, and how much do you usually add for a red IPA?

 

[Megary]

Any chance you can post the AA% of these hops?

My first thought is to save the EKG for something English, as I think that one is most unlike all the others.

Maybe bitter with NZH and use a combo of NZH, Melba and Taiheke late and also as dry hops. But I'm not really familiar with these 3 hops so I'm not sure if they would get along.

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

I'm not familiar with any of the hops except Willamette and EKG. I agree with @Megary on the EKG. The hopping should be to whatever aromas and flavors you are trying to extract in your beer.

 

[CrabbyPatty]

Any chance you can post the AA% of these hops?

My first thought is to save the EKG for something English, as I think that one is most unlike all the others.

Maybe bitter with NZH and use a combo of NZH, Melba and Taiheke late and also as dry hops. But I'm not really familiar with these 3 hops so I'm not sure if they would get along.

Thanks for the ideas! As for the AA's:

• Taiheke 7%
• Willamette 5.7%
• NZH-107 8.3%
• Melba AU21 11.1%

I've only worked with taiheke and Willamette before, and the Willamette was in a stout so its flavours were relatively hidden. So I'm not totally sure what I would be in for with these other ones.

With the two responses in mind, thinking the following hop schedule (I no chill so taking that into account):

66.43 IBU
Bittering:
20 g Melba 60 min

Aromatic:
5 g each of Melba, NZH, Taiheke @ 10 min
10 g each of Melba, NZH, Taiheke @ 0min

Dry hop:
20 g of each Melba, NZH, Taiheke for ~5 days

Would you reccommend any adjustments to that?

 

[Over The Cliff Brewing]

I would move the 10 min addition to the whirlpool. Will you be leaving the hops in the wort while "no Chilling" The hop oils will continue isomerize until the wort is cool. This is why I would move the 10 min addition. Keep in mind, just because I would do that doesn't mean you should. Do you!

 

[Megary]

Thanks for the ideas! As for the AA's:

• Taiheke 7%
• Willamette 5.7%
• NZH-107 8.3%
• Melba AU21 11.1%

I've only worked with taiheke and Willamette before, and the Willamette was in a stout so its flavours were relatively hidden. So I'm not totally sure what I would be in for with these other ones.

With the two responses in mind, thinking the following hop schedule (I no chill so taking that into account):

66.43 IBU
Bittering:
20 g Melba 60 min

Aromatic:
5 g each of Melba, NZH, Taiheke @ 10 min
10 g each of Melba, NZH, Taiheke @ 0min

Dry hop:
20 g of each Melba, NZH, Taiheke for ~5 days

Would you reccommend any adjustments to that?

Well, there are a zillion ways to hop an IPA, but your plan seems reasonable to me. So does the one from @Over The Cliff Brewing.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[CrabbyPatty]

I would move the 10 min addition to the whirlpool. Will you be leaving the hops in the wort while "no Chilling" The hop oils will continue isomerize until the wort is cool. This is why I would move the 10 min addition. Keep in mind, just because I would do that doesn't mean you should. Do you!

Nah I generally let them sit in the hop spider until the wort reaches around 85°C then I put the wort into the fermentation vessel minus the hops.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Nah I generally let them sit in the hop spider until the wort reaches around 85°C then I put the wort into the fermentation vessel minus the hops.

My thoughts on this No chill late hop additions reflects over the cliff especially with IPA hop forward beers.
The alpha acids contributed from the hops in the wort will continue to isomoise regardless if you leave the hops in or remove them.
It's my understanding that the hop oils are desolved into solution with some of them more delecate hop oils cohumulone - geraniol - myrcene being quite volatile dissipating quickly out of solution at high temperatures even in the fermenter...
Think of your 0min additions as a 20-30min addition that's how I approach no chill.

I'd push the late hop additions into the 0min whirlpool.

So are you partially chilling your wort then whirlpooling then transferring into the fermenter hot?

 

[CrabbyPatty]

My thoughts on this No chill late hop additions reflects over the cliff especially with IPA hop forward beers.
The alpha acids contributed from the hops in the wort will continue to isomoise regardless if you leave the hops in or remove them.
It's my understanding that the hop oils are desolved into solution with some of them more delecate hop oils cohumulone - geraniol - myrcene being quite volatile dissipating quickly out of solution at high temperatures even in the fermenter...
Think of your 0min additions as a 20-30min addition that's how I approach no chill.

I'd push the late hop additions into the 0min whirlpool.

So are you partially chilling your wort then whirlpooling then transferring into the fermenter hot?

Thanks for the response! I realise my hop additions are a bit off for no chill, and I've got some idea as to how I'll change it up which was doing those latest all at 0 min/whirlpool.

Yeah that's what I have done in the past (naturally cool to ~85 °C then transfer to fermenter), but I was chatting to someone recently who also does no chill. What they do is whirlpool without a spider and then leave it all to cool overnight before transferring to the fermenter. Apparently the hop profile is improved over the hot transfer to a cube/fermenter. My guess is that as the hops sink to the bottom there isn't as much surface area for further oil extraction and subsequent isomerisation.

 

[GFHomebrew]

Thanks for the response! I realise my hop additions are a bit off for no chill, and I've got some idea as to how I'll change it up which was doing those latest all at 0 min/whirlpool.

Yeah that's what I have done in the past (naturally cool to ~85 °C then transfer to fermenter), but I was chatting to someone recently who also does no chill. What they do is whirlpool without a spider and then leave it all to cool overnight before transferring to the fermenter. Apparently the hop profile is improved over the hot transfer to a cube/fermenter. My guess is that as the hops sink to the bottom there isn't as much surface area for further oil extraction and subsequent isomerisation.

Yeah could be I feel it's a suck it and see type thing.
I've been on a bit of a no chill run here myself and that's just what I do definitely doesn't mean I'm right .