Hop additions for flavor and aroma

[Steve Russell]

I am a BIAB type all grain brewer, use a 10 gallon pot, conical fermenter, and more often do a closed transfer to my keg. My beer comes out pretty good based on inputs from my co-workers and friends. I have read and watched videos on hop additions for flavor and aroma. It varies from late in the boil, to flame out and finally whirl pool or hop stand. Is one really better than the other? Dry hopping is another discussion but I think it does add to aroma and flavor. Maybe I am over analyzing this, but have tried adding hops at different stages and wonder does it really matter, is one better than the other.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

It’s often style dependent as to which method you would use. Whirlpool and dry hop additions are more in line for APA and IPA. Late additions to the boil can be used in German Lagers, American Lagers/Ales and APA/IPA.

I make and compete with APA and IPA’s. I noticed a big difference in the beer when I shifted from late additions to 170F whirlpools. The flavor was much better and the aroma was improved as well. The beers were dry hopped to bring up the aroma. The aroma and flavor match each other better as well.

I never use this with a German Pils because it doesn’t work well with this beer. The Noble hops become grassy.

Keep in mind that 170F will add some bitterness. You can estimate the bitterness addition by changing the utilization on Brewer’ Friend Calculator to 3%.

 

[Donoroto]

It’s a complex topic. I think most agree that hops added at the start of the boil add bitterness but not aroma. As you add hops later and later, they don’t add as much bitterness, but do add increasing aroma, culminating in whirlpool hops, with almost no bitter and lots of aroma.

Dry hops - or and hops added in fermentation - are pure aroma and flavor. The temperature is low, so the hops don’t bitter.

So which is best? Depends. An ounce of dry hop can give you the same aroma as a much larger amount of whirlpool hops. But in my opinion, the dry hop aroma is more fragile - intense early, fading over time. The whirlpool hops start a bit sharp, mellowing to a nice point and lasting longer. (Time here means storage time).

My Hefeweitzen uses an ounce of mittelfrueh at 60 minutes. That’s all bittering, but it is a different bitter than, say, magnum, even accounting for the AAs.

I guess the conclusion I’m drawing is
that bitter is not always the same bitter, and Hop aroma can be fleeting and variable over time. If you look at a lot of recipes of a certain style, you’ll find a pattern, and that pattern helps define that particular beer’s flavor profile.

 

[Daniel Parshley]

HighVoltageMan and Donoroto nailed it. Pretty much word-for-word what I'd written from my limited experience as a mostly extract brewer. Around here, my crew like the additions at 170 F and let sit for 30 to 60 minutes and cool down slowly. Low AA noble hops seem best as a 60 minute boil addition without anything else.

 

[Josh Hughes]

Lots of beers use the same malt, yeast and hops. The magic that separates them and gives each person their favorite is amounts and timings. Good luck you’ll hit on what you like at some point. Enjoy the ride. I’m far away from getting it perfect

 

[Donoroto]

I’m happy with “drinkable”.

 

[Steve Russell]

Thank you all for the responses, I will experiment some with whirl pool and dry hopping suggestions. I just returned from a trip for a family emergency and just now read the responses. Going to brew a low ABV Hazy IPA next and use quite a few hops in the whirlpool and dry hop. I have seen a few recipes and examples on UTube and it looks like a fun experiment. I can't drink the N/A's at all and I like NEIPA's and DIPA's but 7-9% is quite a wallop.....lol

 

[Sandy Feet]

I would like to hear how that comes out. I have been all over the board playing with different styles. I loved the base on my New England, but I didn't go near hoppy enough. I came out at 5.8%, and I did like the Cascade, Mosaic combination...I just needed more.
WLP067 did what I wanted fermenting right near 70F. I want to try it again.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

I came out at 5.8%, and I did like the Cascade, Mosaic combination...I just needed more.

It's not unusual to use 12-16 ounces of hops in a 5 gallon batch just to get the hop flavor and aroma where you like it. Most of the hops end up in the whirlpool. What sucks is the cost of the beer. But it is so good you'll end up doing it again.

 

[Sandy Feet]

It's not unusual to use 12-16 ounces of hops in a 5 gallon batch just to get the hop flavor and aroma where you like it. Most of the hops end up in the whirlpool. What sucks is the cost of the beer. But it is so good you'll end up doing it again.

I am going to do it again. We all have to learn at one time or another. I think I would have been o.k. with even another once or two. I did both a 60 and a whirlpool edition. I would like to do a 60 and a 10 next time with a little bit more. I bittered in reverse with the lower IBU Cascade. Like I said, I liked the beer except for the hop level. I know the New Englands have a bunch of late additions, but I kind of wanted a balanced approach with some bittering and some late additions.