Graduating to your own all grain recipes...

If everything went well, the harvested yeast will get stronger in subsequent fermentations, supposedly as far as batches 5 or 6. @Donoroto is right, you can harvest and store the yeast culture for at least several weeks. That’s as far as I’ve taken it - about 5-6 weeks between batches.
I’m using conicals, so when I harvest it’s typically cold crashing. I use the dump valve to transfer, but if you’re using a regular kettle, you can just agitate some of the beer with the yeast, transfer to a jar of some sort & cover loosely.

Leave a layer of beer on top of the yeast from the harvesting, cover it loosely and don’t seal it. When you’re ready to use again, dump all the beer on top of the yeast. I use a sampling or transfer valve to pour a small amount of wort into the yeast, swirl it around and pitch.
 
I don't harvest.
I re-use straight away.
Keg while no-chilling or cooling. Then next batch straight on top of left over trub (I've gone 24 hours in between)
But I do small batches, and mainly similar styles of beer. After 3 or 4 batches, I do a last one pouring on either apple juice or ginger concoction
(Unfortunately price of apple juice has gone through the roof)
 
How much do you use for the next batch? Iv'e seen posts saying they pour the next batch into the fermenter no cleaning or anything. Never tried either method but they do sound interesting.
I generally dump all of it in, after pouring most of the supernatant off. But a quarter of it will likely suffice. I use a quart jar, and it has about 1/4
IMG_8056.jpeg
as yeast.
 
I prolly didn't start making my own recipes for 3-4 years. Until i understood better what the different grains did and how to balance them.

The biggest epiphany I think ever had in brewing is this: brew to gravity not volume.

Efficiency is a hard bitch to tame when you are getting different grains and your conditions change from brew to brew. So, do everything right and see where you land with your gravity and adjust your water to hit your target. Whatever volume you get, the beer will be right ;)
That really makes sense. All my kit instructions show brewing to volume but I've often wondered if that wasn't reducing alcohol content or taste by watering it down. Agree with your comment. 4.5 or 5.2 gallons is no biggies but if the gravity is wrong you're not going to get it right. Great insight thank you... Chip
 
You could buy hops at https://hopalliance.com or https://hopsdirect.com look for deals. Then harvest your yeasts
and always buy your 2 row base malts in 55lb bags, if you can from a local supplier. After 60 brews, we are averaging $0.88/ 12oz. If you fill out everything on the inventory in Brewersfriend including cost of all ingredients, you quickly will see your total costs. Don't forget your gases Co2, oxygen, nitrogen and propane.
I follow pretty much the same overall process except for the 'washing' part. Yeast are happiest in beer. I stopped using distilled as a means to 'get rid of the beer'. When I package, invariably there is still some beer left in the fermenter with the yeast and trub cake. I simply swish that around to get it loose and pour that into sanitized quart jars to get the remainder out of the fermenter. (because that's what I have) Usually 2 jars is plenty and often all I have left to pour out anyway. I let that sit at room temp like the video for 30–45 minutes to let the trub and dead yeast settle out, then I carefully decant the beer & suspended yeast into a 1L flask. (this works better than another jar) The flask gets covered and goes into the fridge for about a week or until the beer on top is clear. I then decant off all but the same volume of beer as the settled yeast cake. (easier to do with a flask, than a jar) I swirl it up to pour out into 4oz. mason jars. (folks usually use those for jams/jellies) That regularly gets me a full 4oz. with no headspace, half of which is beer and half yeast. I usually will pitch this straight the next time I use it, unless it has been over a year, then I'll make a starter. There is more than enough yeast there to get the job done. I find my yeast last longer when I don't dilute with distilled water.
 
So I have had half dozen successful brews with all grain kits. I'm using an all in one system which works really well with or without a bag. I sparge with a cooler and normally 3 gallons of 170 degree water. Because I'm using an all in one system I've had to modify the instructions that come with the all grain kits which are mostly made for guys doing on the stove or burner DIY setups. Point is that now I am getting very confident in my modifications and methods of brewing with the equipment I have.

Now I want to go to the next level. I have already bought some hops and ten pounds of two row malt. I'm wondering how to reduce my costs and still produce stellar craft brews. What is the level of experience out there in buying for example, 50 pound bags of two row malt and a pound or more at a time buying various pellet hops and then crafting your own recipes? Cheaper? Not worth it? I'm mostly an ale guy. Yeasts for this seem to be pretty common. I will most always stick to 5 gallon recipes. So hopefully this will get the discussion going. I'm wanting to learn as much as possible and the more I know the more questions I have. Thanks... Chip
I've gone the sack route for about 6 years now. Yes, it is cheaper, if you can pick it up yourself, otherwise, don't bother, the shipping is outrageous. Several of the online shops won't ship a sack free, but somehow, if you order the equivalent of a sack, they will. (but you won't save on the grain itself of course)

Sacks are great when you brew 2+times a month, or brew more than 5gal at a time. (and you noted you won't be brewing large batches) You can save up to 50% of the malt cost that way, but do the math—overall, it doesn't make a big dent in the final price of the batch. (every penny counts, but malt may not be the first or best place to save)

Hops and yeast are the 2 most expensive ingredients. (outside of real fruit if you're into that) Other than growing your own hops, or avoiding IPAs, there isn't much opportunity there. However, HopsDirect usually has great deals, especially on leaf hops. YakimaValley also runs deals on off-year 1# and ½# bags. You can get really good T-90 New World hops for $1 or less per ounce if you watch the sales.

That leaves yeast as the money glutton, and I see that answer is well covered already. Having your own yeast bank, especially if you have other brewers near you to share, is probably the biggest bang for your buck. And yes, you can save yeast from a cake if you pitched dry yeast.

If you brew every 2 weeks or so, with the same strain, and you plan your brew days and packaging days properly, you can even avoid the yeast saving step and just pitch right into the fermenter after packaging. I've done this plenty of times, even with a day in between and have had no off flavors or other issues. Like saving yeast though, you're only going to get so many 'true' generations out of that initial pitch, but then you now have a House Strain that you might like.

A final alternative is to save some yeast from the fresh pack, making a starter with the rest for pitching. Then every time you need some, just pull off that originally saved yeast. (you'll need a starter every time of course) Some folks just save it in the fridge, but with a small investment, you can freeze it too for even more shelf-life. And remember, you can probably keep each of those pulls off the original pack for 8 generations. If you get into freezing and slants, and don't mind building starters in multiple steps, you can get probably 1000 batches off one pack.
 
A final alternative is to save some yeast from the fresh pack, making a starter with the rest for pitching. Then every time you need some, just pull off that originally saved yeast. (you'll need a starter every time of course) Some folks just save it in the fridge, but with a small investment, you can freeze it too for even more shelf-life. And remember, you can probably keep each of those pulls off the original pack for 8 generations. If you get into freezing and slants, and don't mind building starters in multiple steps, you can get probably 1000 batches off one pack.

This is what I do. This way there is no worry about how much of the trub is yeast. Plus there is no hops to potentially alter the flavor of the next batch. If you haven't used the yeast after a few months, you can boil up some DME rebuild the yeast in the starter.
 

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