Yeast question

[Brewer #404298]

Live in Mississippi. 2 hour round trip to local brewery shop. Going to order online. Most sites say that they can't guarantee yeast stays cold (understandable at 94 degrees every day). Thinking about switching to dry yeast for this batch.

I have brewed 6 times with liquid yeast and happy with results.

Receipe (Moose Drool brown ale), calls for WLP013. I have no experience tasting same recipe with different yeasts. How noticeable is it?

Here are the options recommended to me by guy at Morebeer.com:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/nottingham-english-ale-yeast-lallemand.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/cellarscience-english-dry-yeast.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/safale-s04-english-ale-yeast-fermentis.html

Any thoughts?

 

[The Brew Mentor]

Dry yeast will work just fine for you.
Of the 3 you listed , I'd go with the Nottingham, but that's a preference. Any should work and give you good results.
Based on the of and volume of your recipe, youay need more than 1 pack.
Good luck

 

[Megary]

Not familiar with Cellar Science yeasts, but I probably would go with S-04. I think you would get similar attenuation.

Hard to argue with Notty though.

 

[Limey]

I always use dry yeast after several issues with "smack" packs failing. I also perform a yeast "rehydration" prior to pitching and get active fermentation going within a few hours! It is also a LOT cheaper!

 

[dmtaylor]

The 3 options posted above are solid, any of those will turn out well. If you want to end up with a slightly sweeter and lower alcohol product, which might be more true to the result from WLP013, then consider also Fermentis S-33 or Mangrove Jack M10 Workhorse, those might be my first choice. Any of these will be great.

 

[Bigbre04]

Everyone knows my preferences on yeasties(#Voss4life).

Just posting to say that it is no longer recommended by manufactures to rehydrate dry yeast. It just adds another potential infection avenue. I pitch dry right into the top of the fermenter while im knocking out and pushing O2.

 

[Bigbre04]

While I still am #Voss4Life, I do admit that it is not my favorite for basic light ales. I have done 2 golden ales in the last 2 weeks using voss(im currently getting my ass kicked with such a tiny system at the height of the summer on the beach). Voss allowed me to crank out 2 ales(one at 6.5% and one at 4.8%), but while the flavor is not bad, it is def fruity and floral. I ended up doing a light dryhop on the big one since it was sort of boozy.

I much prefer the golden lager over the golden ale, but i was out of beer and the Voss allowed me to crank out a batch in like 5 days grain to glass.

 

[MiketheB]

Dry yeast works fine. Starters; Care! Be good and it'll do you well! I'm using Kveik (various) and 05

MB

 

[MiketheB]

Try Kveik!

 

[Blackmuse]

Live in Mississippi. 2 hour round trip to local brewery shop. Going to order online. Most sites say that they can't guarantee yeast stays cold (understandable at 94 degrees every day). Thinking about switching to dry yeast for this batch.

I have brewed 6 times with liquid yeast and happy with results.

Receipe (Moose Drool brown ale), calls for WLP013. I have no experience tasting same recipe with different yeasts. How noticeable is it?

Here are the options recommended to me by guy at Morebeer.com:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/nottingham-english-ale-yeast-lallemand.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/cellarscience-english-dry-yeast.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/safale-s04-english-ale-yeast-fermentis.html

Any thoughts?

Nottingham will not disappoint as a dry yeast but I do not think it will give you the flavors of wlp013.... Notty is typically clean and allows malt to shine. It can give some fruit hints in fermented warmer...

I'm a huge fan of dry yeast and nottingham ale yeast!

 

[Josh Hughes]

I love Verdant. True dry English strain that s fruitier if you want that. I ferment it in the 70-74 and it’s fine at that temp. I know that wasn’t one of the ones you asked about. I don’t usually do that but it’s a great yeast.

 

[AnokaBrewer]

As others have said, dry yeast will certainly work fine and you do not have to worry as much about the heat issue. Something you may want to consider is farming yeast. In the future, if you do a double starter, you can pitch half and save half for a future batch. You can keep doing that and it is a lot easier than washing yeast. You may also find out that dry works just as good for you and you may not want to bother with a yeast starter.

 

[Johhnyrotten]

You will be happy with the results you get from dry yeast. I have had really good success with them. They have improved over the years and there are more strains available. I would probably go with Nottingham for your Moose Drool. It is a nice strain and can work for a variety or beer styles.

 

[Bigbre04]

As others have said, dry yeast will certainly work fine and you do not have to worry as much about the heat issue. Something you may want to consider is farming yeast. In the future, if you do a double starter, you can pitch half and save half for a future batch. You can keep doing that and it is a lot easier than washing yeast. You may also find out that dry works just as good for you and you may not want to bother with a yeast starter.

I would consider repitching yeast to be a more advanced thing. It is def doable on the homebrew scale, but it requires much more cleanliness then just using a fresh pitch each time. I use Apex and it is so cheap that i dont even bother repitching it. I also heavily overpitch, but that is entirely due to laziness. I just split 500 gram bricks so 250g into each 2bbl batch.

Washing yeast is not very useful unless you have a proper lab setup and even then most of the big boys dont even bother with it.

 

[Zambi]

I would consider repitching yeast to be a more advanced thing. It is def doable on the homebrew scale, but it requires much more cleanliness then just using a fresh pitch each time. I use Apex and it is so cheap that i dont even bother repitching it. I also heavily overpitch, but that is entirely due to laziness. I just split 500 gram bricks so 250g into each 2bbl batch.

Washing yeast is not very useful unless you have a proper lab setup and even then most of the big boys dont even bother with it.

Agree, but pitching on the trub of a previous batch is easy.
Just requires getting the timing right

 

[Bigbre04]

Agree, but pitching on the trub of a previous batch is easy.
Just requires getting the timing right

for sure!

Im surprised that people talk about washing yeast in homebrewing. I assume that it is not an acid wash like a lab would do?