Brewer's Friend Home Brewing Software

Dude Your Beer Line Stinks! Wash It Out!

Every so often beer lines need to be cleaned. They can get so dirty the poured beer will smell and taste funny. This is a normal issue that all home brewers, bars, and restaurants have to contend with.

The off colored crystalline sediment is officially known as beer stone (Calcium Oxalate). It builds up over time naturally. This line was used for probably two months. Already it has a large deposit on the inside. Even if the line is used regularly, beer stone build ups can happen in a matter of weeks. Whenever I notice beer stone building up I change the line. I’m kind of surprised it got as far as it did this go around, but hey it makes a good blog post!

You may note ‘goaty’ smells and flavors in beer served through a dirty line. This is can be a common problem in bars or restaurants that take a lax approach to beer line cleanliness.

What does Goaty really smell like, you ask?

For scientific and journalistic purposes, I have subjected myself to analyzing the aroma of this beer line. At first it smells like a sweaty locker room with a bit of wet animal and a hint of stale beer. I also get rotten cheese, curdled milk, and rubber. The rubber is no doubt from the hose itself. All in all, flavors we do not want in our beer.

Cleaning process:

It is pretty simple to clean the line. Start by soaking the line in a solution of line cleaner. Line cleaner can be purchased inexpensively at your local home brew store (LHBS). A little goes a long way. A splash of the line cleaner in a quart of warm water does the trick. Then the next day, I pour out the hose, and run a specially designed four foot long line cleaning brush through it. From there I flush thoroughly with hot water in both directions, then hang it up to try. Ready to use again!

Keep a backup serving line:
Beer stone and the need to regularly clean beer lines is a downside to kegging beer at home. I keep a clean, ready to go serving line in case I notice a serving line is dirty. That gives me plenty of time to clean out the dirty one while keeping the beer flowing.

For more about beer stone, and a detailed look at removing it:
https://www.birkocorp.com/brewery/white-papers/removing-beerstone-a-look-at-alternative-cleaning-methods/

Posted in Equipment, Kegging and CO2 | No Comments »

Hops Trellis Ideas

There are no rules when it comes to hop trellis design. The higher the hops can climb the better, up to 18 feet, but even 8-10 feet off the ground is okay. The important thing is to make sure the hops have as much sunlight as possible.  Give the vines something to climb up as they are growing (rope, wire or twine works great).

Trellis attached to building:

Earlier this year the brew shed got a trellis upgrade. Last year the hops were right up against the siding which is bad for the paint and overall lifespan of the siding. With the trellis installed there is now about a foot and a half of airspace between the plant and the wall. The design was inspired by: https://www.blueroofcabin.com/2011/06/diy-trellis-over-garage-door.html

March, 2013

May, 2013

July, 2013

Note how the hops are getting a little tangled. It is the Chinook and Fuggle in the middle that are fighting. Originally I attempted to train the Chinook hop vine around the porch light. It worked for a few months but now that the plant is in full growth it is impossible to keep it away.  I will need to do some work to ensure that when I harvest I don’t mix up the varieties too much.  In retrospect planting the same variety in the middle would have been smarter.

Free Standing Hop Trellis:

A friend of mine has many trees in his back yard. That was nice because it kept the house cool in the summer, but didn’t give much opportunity to grow hops. Instead he built this free standing trellis in the front yard and had awesome results:

Improvisation for growing hops:

Provided the hops have something to climb up the plant will figure the rest out. Hops can be trained to climb up a few feet and then horizontally like on a clothes line or fence.

How the pro’s setup a Hops trellis:

The most efficient way to grow hops is to setup rows with the plants 5 – 7 feet apart allow them to climb up to 18 feet in the air. I’m envious of this, but it would look a little strange in the back yard.

For more reading on hops:

• Information on Hop Gradening from Freshops.
• Brewer’s Friend Hop Growing Blog Category.

Some photos from Flickr creative commons:

• Hop field in Belgium
• Hop field trellises
• Hop vines on a fence

Posted in Hops Growing | 4 Comments »

July 2013 Release Notes

The July 2013 release is live. Hop stand support, gyle/krausen priming calculator, starting mash thickness field, and many other refinements are in this release. Along with changes to the cloud application this month our iPhone app was just updated to version 1.5 and is available in the app store. Many thanks to those who contributed to discussions in the feature request forum.

Support for Hop Stands – select Whirlpool or Hopback in the Hop Use drop down.

Hop Stands are getting a lot of attention lately and Brewer’s Friend now supports them!

A hop stand is a technique where hops are exposed to the wort after the boil but before fermentation.

• In a Whirlpool hop stand, the whirlpool is started after the boil and extra hops are added.
• With a hopback the wort is pumped or drained through a container holding the extra hops on the way to the fermentor.

Hop stands avoid vaporizing the essential oils and are said to result in smoother bitterness and flavor. The temperature and time of the exposure greatly impacts the utilization (for the purposes of IBU calculations). Given the wide variation in process and equipment out there, the utilization factor is left up to the brewer. A value of 10% is generally accepted, but could vary based on process. The hotter the temperature and the more time, the higher the utilization.

When selecting Whirlpool or Hopback as the hop use, two new fields will appear.

• The utilization of the hops (normally 10%, but could be zero if done at lower temperatures or for a short time).
• The temperature at which the hop stand is performed at.

For more information on hop stands see this excellent and detailed write up by BYO (Mar/Apr 2013).

Equations for modeling hop stand utilization and their IBU impact are being worked on by Kaiser!

State of the Art Gyle / Krausen Priming Calculator:

Our Gyle / Krausen Priming calculator is powered by Kaiser’s equations and his gyle/krausen spreadsheet. For convenience, if you don’t have enough Gyle or Krausen on hand, the calculator reports how much additional sugar is needed to hit the target CO2 level. It also breaks down the relative CO2 contributions from the beer, gyle/krausen, priming sugar, and any unfermented sugars still in the beer. Our plan is to eventually link up the recipe editor and brew session to our three priming calculators (gyle/krausen, priming sugar, and keg calculators).

Updates to the Recipe Editor:

• Total grain bill weight is displayed in the fermentables box.
• When changing the unit drop down for hops and grains, the value automatically toggles to the equivalent value in the new unit.
• Starting mash thickness field added for All Grain recipes as requested in the feature request forum. This sets us up to build out mash profiles down the road.
• Mash lines can be specified in quarts or gallons for recipes in US mode.
• Other Ingredients can be specified in milliliters.
• Volumes of CO2 added in priming section in the Other Ingredients section.
• New profile options for the recipe editor: Default Batch Size and Default Boil Size.

Other improvements:

Pre-boil gravity is now displayed on the recipe view, recipe print, and brew session pages.

The My Recipes and My Brewing list has been improved to include the recipe type. On the My Recipes page, each recipe now has direct links to related brew sessions.

iPhone 1.5 Updates:

• Improved listing of recipes with index (ability to jump down quickly) and snapshot indicator.
• Mash thickness field for all grain recipes.
• Recipe level volumes of CO2 and CO2 unit.
• Hopstand support (whirlpool and hopback hop uses).
• Mash line volume can now be specified in quarts or gallons (for recipes in US units mode).
• Other ingredient unit list now includes milliliters.
• Click here for more information about our iphone app.

Our mission is to help you brew better beer. Stay tuned for more updates at Brewer’s Friend!

Posted in Announcements | 2 Comments »

Lifting Carboys and Kegs with a Pulley in the Brew Shed

Lifting carboys full of beer in and out of keezers can be bad for the lower back.  My brew shed is setup with freezer chests for both the fermentation chamber and keezer. Freezer chests require awkward bending and lifting to get carboys and kegs in and out. There is no way to lift with the knees in this situation.  The solution is to install a pulley system above the keezers! With this system in place, I never strain a muscle.

If there is something in your brewery to over build, the pulley system is it! Mine is rated well over 250 pounds. Most parts are rated higher but the weak link is the single carabiner that links the pulley to the gambrel.  That said, 250 pounds is way more than the 60-70 pounds I’ll be lifting at one time.  Figure the pulley and gambrel weigh 10 pounds, the better bottle 1 pound, and 6 gallons of beer at 8.5 lb/gal reaches at most 65 pounds.  I never stand under it when there is load, and I’m careful to make sure I’m ready if something gives.

To make life easy, the pulley slides left and right along a 6 foot 1″ iron pipe mounted to 2×6 boards that are lag bolted into the joists. The pipe is held to the 2×6’s with brackets and screws that go through it at each end.  Two rings allow the pulley to move horizontally. Really only one ring is needed, but I went with two in case a weld fails.  The bar has paste wax smeared on top to allow the rings to slide easily.  On the floor between the keezer and the fermentation chamber there is an open spot where I can start the lift operation. After the payload is in the air, I can push it left or right, then lower it to the destination.

I went with a good quality pulley and gambrel kit on amazon: Hunters Specialties Mag Lift System with Gambrel. This pulley has a nice auto locking mechanism so the beer stays in the air. The pulley and gambrell are something you would normally see on a hunting trip.  Wire clamps on either side of the hooks keep them securely in place.

For lifting corny kegs, I remove the gambrel, and loop a heavy duty chain through the handle and hook it to the carabiner on the pulley. The hardware store will sell chain in short lengths. A foot is about right.

General Carboy Safety:
For safety – no matter what you are doing, always use a carboy hauler (the nylon basket show in the photos). If you have ever shattered a glass carboy, it is bad news. It can lead to nasty if not life threatening cuts. To avoid death by a broken carboy, I’ve switched to using better bottles. Cleaning a better bottle can take extra work because they are easy to scratch the inside of.  I’ve found PBW with a rag inside the container gets the chore done in 10-15 minutes.  We have a detailed guide on cleaning better bottles.

Other ideas:

• Some people go for the electric hoist:
  https://www.harborfreight.com/110-volt-440-lb-capacity-electric-hoist-with-remote-control-40765.html
  See it in action:
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdM5L73AYNQ&noredirect=1

• Before I built my brew shed, I built a wagon for rolling carboys around.

• In retrospect, a fermentation chamber with a side door built around a smaller fridge could have worked, but I’d still be stuck with needing the hoist for my keezer.

• In googling this subject and researching it before I installed my own, I’m amazed at what people get by with and consider ‘safe’.  Make sure to over build your pulley / hoist system well past the load ratings! Some of these cheap made in China pulleys are a real joke and I wouldn’t trust them.

• I almost went with an I-Beam and an I-Beam trolley, but decided that was too expensive and overkill. It would look awesome though.

• It is possible to design a pulley hanger that allows for not just left/right movement, but also in and out from the wall!

Posted in Equipment | 2 Comments »

Why Kegging Home Brewed Beer Just Feels Right

Cracking open that first bottle of your own home brew is a satisfying feeling and a great accomplishment. The rush of CO2 as the seal is broken, the anticipation, the smell, and ohh the taste, and mmmm another sip…

Along the same lines, your first pour of kegged beer will be equally satisfying. Kegging offers a fast and easy packaging process, consistent carbonation, less exposure to oxygen, and no residual priming sugar. Not to mention, having home brewed beer on tap at home just feels right!

At this point in my brewing progression, I’m focused on quality and saving time. Brewers can save money by sacrificing time and or quality (see Better Faster Cheaper Beer). The other night, with all my kegs full, and a batch of home brew ready to package, I was busy soaking ~40 bottles of various sizes. It felt tedious. I began to add up all the extra steps bottling involves. Then I realized kegging is a convenience factor and a quality factor in one.

When converting to kegging, most people make the mistake of starting with a simple one or two keg setup. My advice is to buy a keezer big enough to handle at least 5 kegs. Trust me, if you are this far into brewing, you’ll want the extra room to expand later. I added a collar to my keezer so I could fit 5 kegs. In retrospect, I should have gotten a larger freezer chest to begin with. Now that I have 5 kegs, I wish I had 7. I don’t think it ever ends really…

Yes kegging is expensive to get started. One way to save money is to have just one picnic tap and switch it between the kegs for dispensing. The added benefit is the line doesn’t get goaty as fast because it is being cleared regularly. I also use one regulator. That means all my kegs are at the same pressure and volumes of CO2. That is not a big deal to me.

A breakdown of kegging vs. bottling:

BOTTLING:

1. Plan how many bottles you need of each size using our bottling calculator.
2. Make a priming sugar solution, calculate how much sugar you need using our priming sugar calculator.
3. Cool down the priming solution.
4. Add some fresh yeast if it is a lager.
5. Meanwhile, sanitize the bottles.
6. Rack beer to bottling bucket, add priming sugar, lift bottling bucket up to table.
7. Begin bottling and capping. Stir gently at a regular interval to avoid variation between bottles and ensure consistent carbonation.
8. Label 50 bottles (the fastest method I found is to write a short code on top of each cap with a sharpie – ie IPA, ESB, P for porter, PA for pale ale, etc).
9. Wait 4-6 weeks for bottle conditioning (stress about bottle conditioning in the interim).
10. When pouring make sure to decant off the small amount of sediment in the bottom.
11. Clean out said bottles after using, dry, and put away for later use.

Organizing bottles is a challenge:

KEGGING:

1. Sanitize 1 keg and parts.
2. Rack into keg.
3. While racking is happening, assemble keg parts.
4. Label 1 keg.
5. Hook up to gas line, carbonated in 14 days. Our keg carbonation calculator can help.
6. Drink and enjoy.

Other Thoughts:

• The big downside of kegging is the initial cost. At approximately $50 per used corny keg, a 5lb CO2 tank, keezer, temperature controller, hoses, the gas manifold – it adds up quick.
• Keg lines do need to be cleaned regularly. I have a 4ft long wire brush to assist with that.
• If I want to take my beer somewhere I fill a growler.
• When you open a 22oz, you are stuck with it. Can’t just have a sip like you can with beer on tap.
• A basement bar/brewery man cave looks awesome with tap handles on display.
• I have noticed my kegged beer tastes fresher, has consistent carbonation, and is preferred by my guests.

Posted in Kegging and CO2 | 3 Comments »

June 2013 Updates

We got a lot of good features out this month. Recipes and brews can be organized into folders. On the recipe editor the yeast drop down may be sorted by product id, or by name.  Nine new yeasts were added. We now accept payments with Stripe (in addition to PayPal). The new brewing report page is live.  The recipe labels feature has been updated (thanks for all the great input in the feature request forum). Shared recipes may now be embedded in other web sites with an iframe tag.

Folders for Recipes and Brews:

Recipes and brews can now be organized into folders. It works via drag and drop. See our FAQ about this feature.

Yeast list sortable by product id or name:

On the recipe editor the yeast list may now be sorted by name or by product id. There is a new button to change the sorting, and the default can be set under your brewing profile. The default is to sort by name (the way it has always been).  We feel advanced brewers will appreciate this.

Nine new White Labs yeasts have been added:

• Whitbread Ale Yeast – WLP017
• Southwold Ale Yeast – WLP025
• Premium Bitter Ale Yeast – WLP026
• Klassic Ale Yeast – WLP033
• Belgian Saison III Yeast – WLP585
• German Lager X Yeast – WLP835
• Copenhagen Lager Yeast – WLP850
• Munich Helles Yeast – WLP860
• HP Lager Yeast – WLP925

Now accepting payments with Stripe:

Stripe is a secure and easy to use payment option now available on the upgrade page.  Stripe has far fewer steps than the PayPal checkout. Stripe also has the convenience of not requiring a ‘stripe account’. We are still accepting payments via PayPal.

For current premium members, you may now upgrade to a lifetime subscription and get a discount based on remaining time left! See our upgrade page for details (requires login).

Brewing Report Page

For those of you using the brew feature, a brewing report is now available that summarizes brew sessions, ingredients, and allows drilling down. FAQ entry is here.

Perfect if you want to plan for next year. I’m buying Amarillo in bulk!

Updates to Recipe Label feature:

As requested in the feature request form – there are three new fields on the Recipe Label page:

• Brew Date
• Bottle Date
• Comments

All fields are overridable. When a field is blank it is not displayed. Removes ‘equation’ designation (tinseth/rager), which cleans up appearance and makes room for the new fields.

Also, as requested in the Feature Request forum: The link to the ‘Label Generator’ from Brew Session page sets fields based on the brew’s data.

Embeddable Recipes:

For shared recipes, a new embed tag button is available that allows for the recipe to be embedded in another website via an iframe. Any changes to the recipe automatically flow through to your audience. The view count is incremented when someone views the recipe at your site!

Other Updates:

• Recipe editor water profiles updated to match those on the Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator.
• For public recipes, a share via Pinterest button has been added next to the Facebook, Twitter, and Google Plus share buttons.

Posted in Announcements | 1 Comment »

Pro Grade Refractometer Atago PAL-1

The Atago PAL-1 is a professional grade digital refractometer that we got to test out over the past few brew sessions.  Compared to my $40 refractometer from Amazon, it is a night and day difference. The PAL-1 is super accurate reading to reading, varying only +/- 0.05 Brix. Contrast that with my cheap-o refractometer which reads +/- 0.6 Brix sample to sample, making it near useless since I have to average 6+ samples to get a good idea of the gravity.

For anybody who brews beer often the PAL-1 is a real treat to use. I can see this unit being an essential tool at any pro brewery. The measurement range is from 0 to 53 Brix, plenty wide. It is water resistant, so you can rinse it off in the sink. It even floats (but I didn’t test that).

Unlike a standard analog refractometer, the PAL-1 is digital.  It requires two AAA batteries and works from the palm of your hand. Just put a couple drops of wort in the sample area and hit the start button. It only takes a second for the reading to come up.

Like all refractometers the PAL-1 needs to be calibrated with water before each use.  The unit is simple to operate – there are literally just two buttons (start = take reading, zero = calibrate with water).  The manual provides detailed info about how to operate it and the various on screen codes that come up. The only trouble I ever had was skipping the calibration or not putting in a large enough sample (both user error). I found that 2-3 drops does the trick, with a wide margin of error provided the minimum sample size is met.  The unit reads best at 59F, but has automatic temperature correction (ATC).

Like all refractometers, the PAL-1 does not correct for the presence of alcohol which throws off the reading. This is not a showstopper for me because Brewer’s Friend corrects for this both in the Brew Log entry screen, and in our stand alone Refractometer Calculator.

I found the FG numbers the PAL-1 and my old school refractometer were giving lined up reasonably well with a hydrometer after applying alcohol correction. Still, FG readings should be taken with a hydrometer.  Refractometers are best suited for OG readings, and taking readings during the mash, or at preboil.

Technical Explanation of How a Digital Refractometer Works:

“Light emitted at an angle from a point source underneath the prism toward the sample liquid enters the boundary surface at multiple angles. Depending on the refractive index of the sample, light may be transmitted (refracted) or reflected. For example, water has a low refractive index, and therefore, light is refracted at a small angle of incidence. Likewise, light traveling through a sample of high refractive index is refracted at a large angle of incidence. Refractive index is proportional to critical angle, the largest angle of incidence for with refraction can still occur before incident light is totally reflected. A boundary line separating light and dark fields appears at the critical angle. The location of this boundary line is detected by the light receiving sensor and the refractive index is calculated.”

– Atago Catalog

Here is a page that explains more about how it works.

Atago’s website and ordering information:

www.atago-usa.com (main page)
https://www.atago-usa.com/PAL-1-Pocket-Refractometer-p176.html (PAL-1 product page)
https://www.atago-usa.com/PAL-Plato-p437.html (PAL-Plato product page)

But wait, there’s more…!

Atago granted our readers a special discount code! Brewer’s Friend readers can save 5% off a PAL-1 or PAL-Plato. Valid through 2013. 

Promo Code for web store: BREWPAL

Post by Larry
(Brewer’s Friend received an evaluation PAL-1 demo unit.)

Posted in Equipment | 1 Comment »

Book Review – Booze For Free

Booze for Free – The Definitive Guide to Making Beer, Wine, Cocktail Bases, Ciders, and Other Drinks at Home – by Andy Hamilton.

https://www.amazon.com/Booze-Free-Definitive-Making-Cocktail/dp/0452298806/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1

This book is a fun, quick read with some witty comments by the author.  The book is mostly focused on ingredients that can be foraged, like wild herbs, berries, fruits. It includes more exotic, historical, and what are now considered peculiar ingredients like tree sap, dandelion, nettles, etc. Touches on beer a little, but there are much better books out there that focus strictly on beer.  The free part is a bit of a misnomer, unless you want to forage for berries and do a wild fermentation. I’d like to re-iterate to readers, when it comes to brewing anything – you get what you pay for in terms of ingredients! Garbage in garbage out is the saying in the computer world, and the same is true in the brewing world. My advice is to start with the highest quality freshest ingredients you can afford!

If you are interested in brewing with any of the following ingredients, I’d check the book out. There over 100 recipes using the following:

• Acorns
• Apples
• Bay
• Beech Leaf
• Beets
• Birch sap
• Blackberry
• Blackcurrants
• Broad Bean (fava beans)
• Broom Flower
• Carrots
• Cherries
• Cleavers
• Courgette
• Damson
• Danelion
• Elderflower
• Grapes white/red
• Golden lime sap
• Gorse
• Hazelnut
• Himalayn balsam
• Hops
• Horseradish (vodka – whew!)
• Japanese Knotweed
• Japanese Rose Petals
• Lavender
• Mint
• Mugwort
• Mulberry
• Nettles
• Pears
• Pine needles
• Plumbs
• Pumpkin
• Quince
• Ratafia
• Rhubarb
• Rosebay
• Rosehip
• Rosemary
• Rumtopf
• Sloe
• Sumac
• Sweet corn
• Walnuts
• Yarrow

  and finally:

• Prison Booze – complete recipe!

I personally wish I could try small samples of some of the recipes and see if it is worth attempting a brew. I’m pretty skeptical of dandelions in beer…  However, my lawn is full of them!  I’d have a year round supply (if it was to my taste that is).

Disclaimer: Brewer’s Friend was sent a free copy of the book to review.

Post by Larry

Posted in Book Reviews | No Comments »

2013 May Release Updates

May has been a busy month for Brewer’s Friend. The mash calculator tab has new updates. Recipes integrate with the Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator.  The 1.3 version of our iPhone app is live and supports sync of brew sessions and brew logs!

We are very happy to get these items knocked out for you! Our mission is to help you brew better beer!

• Strike Tab now allows targeting mash thickness or infusion volume.
  

• Ability to mash in quarts or gallons (for users who have their units set to US).  The input fields on related tabs work in gallons as well.  Mash water unit is profile option. The default is quarts, but it can be changed under your brewing profile.  The mash water unit value can also be overridden on the Brew Start page. Related to this, the Water Volume Tracking table shows key volumes in quarts and gallons (when brew is in US units mode).

  

• Added Fly Sparge and Batch Sparge options, which make things much clearer.

• Warnings related to exceeding volumes, boiling, or freezing are now textual instead of popup alert dialogs.

A few months ago, in collaboration with Kaiser, we launched our Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator, which does mash pH estimates in addition to many other water chemistry calculations.  In this release, the advanced water calculator and the recipe editor are more tightly integrated. Look for the link to the Mash Chemistry and Brewing Water Calculator on the Recipe View or Recipe Edit pages. (Requires a water profile to be selected.)

I’m hooked on this tool because it shows the relationship between grain bill, brewing salts, and mash pH. Following the link from the recipe leads to a pre-populated version of the tool (target profile, grain bill, and water volumes are filled out based on the recipe and your profile). You can also load in your source water profiles from the drop downs without having to re-type them.

As a follow on to the above item, accounts now supports multiple water profiles, not just one!

Brew Session and Brew Log Sync Supported!

• Ability to delete all items from shopping list.

• On the recipe edit and view pages, the number of yeast cells needed to hit the targeted pitch rate is displayed.

• Added brew log entry type ‘yeast starter’.  I typically create my brew session the day I make my starter.  The volume drop down now supports Liters as well (for some reason I always do starters in Liters).

Happy brewing,
Larry

Posted in Announcements | No Comments »

BRY-97 American West Coast Yeast Review

BRY-97 is a relatively new dry yeast on the market released in limited amounts in 2012.  Got a pack for the first time late last year. That brew is almost completely gone, and I’m happy with the results, but there were a few surprises!

In a nutshell, BRY-97 is NOT your typical Chico strain like US-04, Wyeast 1056 or White Labs WLP001.  

BRY-97 accentuates malt character and provides some fruity notes (pineapple, citrus). It also has a huge frothy krausen head and a long lag time compared to US-05.

I brewed an IIPA with it, fermented at 65F (not too cool, not too warm).  The beer was great, but I was surprised that it wasn’t a more neutral strain, like the Chico strains.  The shed smelled like pineapple the entire time it was fermenting!  The tropical note has dropped off now after several months in the bottle but there is still something sweet and fruity about it.

Since I only had one pack, I did a starter – check out the krausen head:

Normally with dry yeast I would buy more packs instead of making a starter. I could only get one pack on special order with BRY-97, so I did a 1.5L starter. Due to the lag with this yeast (which I was not aware of at the time), it took 2-3 days longer than normal to finish out, and I had juggle my brew schedule.

Flocculation was great, the beer was clear after 2 weeks. No off flavors or any issues with esters or weirdness. The beer was quite drinkable after 30 days, so I take it this yeast doesn’t stay green as long. I’d use BRY-97 again for something along the lines of a Kolsch or summer beer, but not in a brew where I want the hops to shine.

This Home Brew Talk thread has pages and pages of interesting comments. There is a lot of concern about the lag time, extra price, and muted hops:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/anyone-try-bry-97-yet-333553/

Danstar’s product page is here:

https://www.danstaryeast.com/products/bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast

Post by Larry

Posted in Yeast Cultures | 3 Comments »