http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/Grapefruit-Pulpin.pdf

O.G: 1.065 READY: 6 WEEKS
1–2 weeks primary, 2–4 weeks secondary,
1–2 weeks bottle conditioning

MAILLARD MALTS
SPECIALTY GRAIN

• 0.5 lbs Dingemans Cara 20
  
• 0.25 lbs Briess Caramel 20
  MAILLARD MALTS
  EXTRACTS & OTHER FERMENTABLES
  
• 6 lbs Gold malt syrup (60 minutes)
  
• 3.15 lbs Gold malt syrup (20 min late addition)
  HOPTIMUS REXTM
  PREMIUM HOPS
  & OTHER FLAVORINGS
  
• 0.5 oz Chinook (60 min)
  
• 0.5 oz Cascade (20 min)
  
• 0.5 oz Chinook (20 min)
  
• 0.5 oz Cascade (5 min)
  
• 0.5 oz Chinook (5 min)
  
• 1 oz Amarillo (0 min)
  
• 0.5 oz Chinook (0 min)
  
• 1 oz Cascade (dry hop)
  
• 1 oz Simcoe (dry hop)
  
• 2 oz Grapefruit peel (dry hop)
  OTHER (NOT INCLUDED)
  
• 4 oz Vodka (Soak grapefruit peel in it for 2 days before dry
  hopping)
  YEAST
  Dry yeast (default) Safale US-05. Optimum
  temperature: 59°-75°F
  Liquid yeast option: Wyeast 1056 American Ale.
  Optimum temp: 60°-72°F
  White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast.
  Optimum temp: 68°-73°F
  PRIMING SUGAR
  
• 5 oz Priming Sugar (save for Bottling Day)
  
  
  PROCEDURE
  A FEW DAYS BEFORE BREWING DAY
  
  1. Remove the liquid Wyeast pack from the refrigerator,
     and “smack” as shown on the back of the yeast package.
     Leave it in a warm place (70–80° F) to incubate until the
     pack begins to inflate. Allow at least 3 hours for inflation;
     some packs may take up to several days to show inflation.
     Do not brew with inactive yeast — we can replace the
     yeast, but not a batch that fails to ferment properly. If you
     are using dry yeast, no action is needed.
     ON BREWING DAY
     
  2. Collect and heat 2.5 gallons of water.
     
  3. For mail-order customers grains for extract kits come
     crushed by default, but if you requested uncrushed grains,
     crush them now. Pour crushed grain into supplied mesh
     bag and tie the open end in a knot. Steep for 20 minutes
     or until water reaches 170°F. Remove bag and discard.
     
  4. Bring to a boil and add the 6 lbs Gold malt syrup.
     Remove the kettle from the burner and stir in the
     Gold malt syrup.
     
  5. Return wort to boil. The mixture is now called “wort”,
     the brewer’s term for unfermented beer.
     
• Add 0.5 oz Chinook hops and boil for 60 minutes.
  
• Add 0.5 oz Cascade hops, 0.5 oz Chinook hops and 3.15 lbs Gold
  malt syrup 20 minutes before the end of the boil.
  
• Add 0.5 oz Cascade hops and 0.5 oz Chinook hops 5 minutes
  before the end of the boil.
  
• Add 1 oz Amarillo and 0.5 oz Chinook hops with 0 minutes
  remaining in the boil. Remove from heat.
  
  1. Cool the wort. When the 60-minute boil is finished,
     cool the wort to approximately 100° F as rapidly as
     possible. Use a wort chiller, or put the kettle in an ice
     bath in your sink.
     
  2. Sanitize fermenting equipment and yeast pack. While
     the wort cools, sanitize the fermenting equipment –
     fermenter, lid or stopper, fermentation lock, funnel, etc –
     along with the yeast pack and a pair of scissors.
     
  3. Fill primary fermenter with 2 gallons of cold water, then
     pour in the cooled wort. Leave any thick sludge in the
     bottom of the kettle.
     GRAPEFRUIT PULPIN’
     
  4. Add more cold water as needed to bring the
     volume to 5 gallons.
     
  5. Aerate the wort. Seal the fermenter and rock
     back and forth to splash for a few minutes, or use an
     aeration system and diffusion stone.
     
  6. OPTIONAL: if you have our Mad Brewer Upgrade
     or Gravity Testing kits, measure specific gravity of the
     wort with a hydrometer and record.
     
  7. Add yeast once the temperature of the wort is 78°F
     or lower (not warm to the touch). Use the sanitized
     scissors to cut off a corner of the yeast pack, and
     carefully pour the yeast into the primary fermenter.
     
  8. Seal the fermenter. Add approximately 1 tablespoon
     of water to the sanitized fermentation lock. Insert the
     lock into rubber stopper or lid, and seal the fermenter.
     
  9. Move the fermenter to a warm, dark, quiet spot until
     fermentation begins.
     BEYOND BREWING DAY, WEEKS
     1–2
     
  10. Active fermentation begins. Within approximately
      48 hours of Brewing Day, active fermentation will
      begin – there will be a cap of foam on the surface of
      the beer, and you may see bubbles come through the
      fermentation lock.
      
  11. Active fermentation ends. Approximately 1–2 weeks
      after brewing day, active fermentation will end: the cap
      of foam falls back into the new beer, bubbling in the
      fermentation lock slows down or stops.
      
  12. Transfer beer to secondary fermenter. Sanitize
      siphoning equipment and an airlock and carboy bung
      or stopper. Siphon the beer from the primary fermenter
      into the secondary.
      BEYOND BREWING DAY—
      SECONDARY FERMENTATION
      
  13. Secondary fermentation. Allow the beer to
      condition in the secondary fermenter for 1-2 weeks
      before proceeding with the next step. Timing now is
      somewhat flexible.
      
  14. Add the dry hops. Add 1 oz Cascade, 1 oz Simcoe
      and the vodka/grapefruit peel mixture to the
      secondary fermenter 5-7 days before bottling.
      BOTTLING DAY—ABOUT 1 MONTH
      AFTER BREWING DAY
      
  15. Sanitize siphoning and bottling equipment.
      
  16. Mix a priming solution (a measured amount of sugar
      dissolved in water to carbonate the bottled beer) of 2/3
      cup priming sugar in 16 oz water. Bring the solution to a
      boil and pour into the bottling bucket.
      
  17. Siphon beer into bottling bucket and mix with
      priming solution. Stir gently to mix, don’t splash.
      
  18. Fill and cap bottles.
      1–2 WEEKS AFTER BOTTLING DAY
      
  19. Condition bottles at room temperature for 1–2 weeks.
      After this point, the bottles can be stored cool or cold.
      
  20. Serving. Pour into a clean glass, being careful
      to leave the layer of sediment at the bottom of the bottle.